I recently purchased an 05 evo with 13k miles and put fresh tires and a OEM clutch in it. I'm going to chronicle my buildup to get advice as I go and also to help others learn

here's some baseline dyno pulls from my g-tech pro RR.. now don't get hung up on the numbers. What's important is that the number are consistent so that as I add mods I'll be able to see a difference on paper instead of relying on a butt dyno.


no mods:


stay tuned

 

alright I just installed the turbo xs short billet short ram intake (fancy for k & n open element air filter) so the stock air box is gone. Finally I can hear air being sucked into the turbo and when I let off I can hear the bov 300% louder. Hell you couldn't even tell it had one before. I don't detect more power or anything but the g-tech is seeing it:






here's an overlay of before and after the air filter: It appears to be worth 5 awhp and 11 tq on a bone stock car.. I imagine the gap could widen with more mods as the engine demands more air.

 

I just removed the spare tire and jack:

jack = 5lbs
spare = 30lbs

35lbs saved

 

ok, so I went out to do a few 1/4 mile runs on the g-tech...first let me preface this with a few facts.

This is the new g-tech pro RR, not the old model. I've taken this to the track with me and was amazed at how consistent it was and how close it was to the actual track times/mph. I found that it was 1.5mph too fast and 1 tenth of a second too quick.

now keep in mind that I bought this car used and as far as I can tell there were no performance mods done, only cosmetic.

1st run, I revved it up to ~ 5000rpm and did a quick slip of the clutch and went WOT, this produced very little wheelspin and barely any bog. On the second run I slightly bogged the launch:

mods: air filter, spare tire and jack removed - I can't believe this thing is already in the 12's

 

I'm going to borrow a laptop from my neighbor to pull some logs and look at the tune. I'm just waiting on him to get home.

While I'm waiting I went ahead and cleaned up the car and took a few quick pics...it started raining so I didn't bother finding the best location.

 

well, I just got back from a 4 hour tuning session... most of the time spent was getting to know the logging and ecu flash software. My neighbor and I went for a spin and pulled some logs and found out why the car feels strong, falls flat on it's face and picks back up. It's knocking really bad ~ 5000-6000rpm range as much at 10 counts. We tweaked the timing by pulling 3-4* through there and now it's silky smooth, no more stumbling where the ecu used to yank the timing and dump fuel to save the engine. I don't know if this will translate to more whp or better trap speed because it's soaking wet outside. Hopefully it will dry off tomorrow so I can get more data.

 

good job fella...

 

Nice...... The next step I would recommend is removing the restrictor pill in the boost line of the solenoid, and adjusting the boost levels using the engine desired boost load and wastegate duty cycle. My car is completely stock, and I started by tweaking the timing map to get rid of the knock from the crapgas here in cali, and then upping the boost. Still messing around with the boost settings....

 

interesting.. I figure I'll just get a MBC and be done with it but I'll read up on your technique. What boost are you tuning for and what is it holding to redline for you?

 

thanks, I'm looking at your mod list and I think we're going to have a simular setup.

right now I'm planning on going with the HKS 272's and BR 20gLT and possibly the BR TBE since it has proven numbers and I like the idea of shedding a few lbs here and there.

any idea what whp you're at on pump gas?

 

before the tuning session yesterday, I tweaked the weight in the g-tech to be dead on... car weight - 35 for the tire/jack + 170 for me and the Peak HP went back to 239 consistently. Originally I had the weight too high so the HP numbers were showing higher too.

I just did a few pulls to see how last nights tune affected the peak HP and there was no change...still 239 but the power feels linear now instead of the surging on off on it was doing before the new tune and knock is down from 10 counts to 0-3 max, so I'll stick with this tune for now.

I'm going to experiment with increasing boost today, the stock EBC is letting it hit a 21psi spike but it starts tapering of immediately 20, 19, 18, 17 and 16psi by redline. My hope is that with the MBC I'll be able to hold at least 20psi to redline. This probably won't show a bigger peak HP but the average HP through the pull will be higher.

 

You should be able to remove most of the taper by adjusting the target boost levels. I have read that the wastgate duty cycles can be increased to 127, but I've not tried it myself. Good work on this thread, thanks.

MB

 

yeah I've been reading some threads on using a smaller diameter restrictor on the turbo side then tweaking the ecu's WG duty etc... I'll give this MBC I used to use for my stealth a try first. It's a really old style and might not work well. Maybe in conjunction I can get what I want. Right now I'm just looking for 20psi to redline.

 

its not going to hold 20psi to redline, you need a spike in boost of almost 28psi to get it to drop to around 20psi at redline...

 

no offense, but that sounds exaggerated unless the others having success are IX cars maybe???