I made some changes after reviewing my drive to work. I found a little knock at 4500 and again at 6000-7000 which explains the dips in the power graph I posted. I pulled 1 degree of timing in that rpm range. I'll make another run asap to see how it looks. I really wasn't going to spend that much time on the tune because I'm going to be installing the cams very soon and I'll just have to rework the whole thing anyway.

also I met up with a local EVO owner that's on the forum last night. I don't want to mention his name, but maybe he'll chime in if he sees this. We have similar mods but his is an 03 and mine is a 05. He's running a mail order tune and after logging a run we found that he was getting 5-15 counts of knock which explained why the power felt flat up top. I tried to download his ROM to fix it but unfortunately the tuner must have locked it because it fails to read. He's going to e-mail me a copy of his stock tune and we'll work from that and maybe reference the one he paid for. His car was about 50awhp shy of mine.

 

I picked up a bung to be welded into my downpipe for my WB02 sensor. I stopped by a local muffler shop and everything went well until they realized I didn't have a catalytic converter They wouldn't touch it. So, I told him I'm going to bring him just the downpipe early Saturday morning and he was okay with that.

I can't wait to get the WB02 setup going. I bet that NB02 a/f map is a mess.

 

I finally got around to installing my WB02 setup and logged a run. To my surprise I had the AFR is in damn good shape from my tuning off of the NB02 sensor previously. I think the key is getting the NB02 very hot before you make any adjustments. I ran a log through of a 4th gear pull from 3k to 8k into Data Log Lab (DLL) and here are the results:






I'll pull the wb02 log later, I don't have a serial connection for it on my new laptop with only USB ports.

 

You need to input the correct temperature, humidity, and pressure into DLL to get accurate numbers unless you are trying to find the delta which you are not.

Go to this web site and look up the weather in your area. www.wunderground.com I use it to get the weather numbers in the area where I log.

 

I tried to plug in the numbers once before and I looked up the pressure at my altitude (~ 800 ft) but it was measured in inches and the program wants the kpa. I tried to find the conversion but eventually gave up on it. with me being so close to sea level I'm not sure I need to add any correction anyway. I'll check out that link you sent though, thanks.

 

I took some pics of the WB02 setup just in case people were wondering how to run the wires and where to put the bung on the down pipe. I chose the opening near the axle.






a few feet behind the wheel is a rubber grommet that I pulled out to run the 02 sensor wire through







I pulled up some carpet in front of the passenger seat to get to the grommet. I also cut a slit in the grommet and opened up the center a bit to make room for the wire while retaining a good seal.

 

You should be abe to find the conversion here:


http://www.transtronics.com/reference/convert.htm

 

The website address I gave you lists the pressure in inches of mercury and hpa. what you need is kpa in DLL. To get hpa from kpa simply move the decimal point one number to the left. For example, the current hpa in my area is 1016.8. That number in kpa becomes 101.68. So you will enter either 101 or 102 in the DLL atmospheric pressure box.

Also the conditions that you are logging under are very rare conditions. You are logging @ 5 AM in the morning when temps are 6* C in your area and NOT zero as entered in DLL. Try logging when the temp are around 10-15 *C when you do your normal driving or when you actually race the car. Right now in memphis the temp is 13 *C, humidity is 37% and baro is 101.5. That should be ideal for logging the car.

Right now where I live the temp is @ 12-13 *C, but the humidity is 82% , since I live close to the ocean. Logging now will lower the boost by at least 1.5 psi. so my data will be meaningless.

 

good info, thanks for the tips

Here's what the AFR looks like currently from 3k to 8k.. sorry I don't have the RPM converter connected to see that signal right now. The goal is to have it slightly lean at spoolup then richer as boost comes on then I gradually lean it out towards redline. I'll probably experiment with a richer AFR and more timing at some point. My stealth likes that technique better.

 

Update?? It's been awhile. Just checking in.

 

sure, I setup evoscan to log the wb02 info from the LM-1 and started playing around with the tune. I ended up ~ 11.5 to 5000 then took it to ~ 11.00 from 5000 - redline and it allowed me a little more timing.

I did a g-tech run at lunch on flat ground that went slightly uphill and on the first on only try I clicked off a 12.5 @ 108 which is a new best compared to my previous 12.8.

I cut a 1.76 60 with a little wheelspin and shifted fairly quick. I think with a few more tries with a sticky surface and my best shifting I could get a 12.4 or better easily even with lifting to shift.

I still haven't installed the HKS 280's yet, I was going to last week but got sick and haven't gotten back to it. I'm thinking about selling them and getting back to working on the Stealth. The Evo is plenty fast for a daily driver and I need to keep it reliable. The Stealth is paid for and If it blows up it doesn't matter.

 

what tires are those?? are they r compounds??

 

nah, el cheapo Nexus Z rated

 

good write up...im thinking about the 280s also..did you use it on the stock valvetrain?

 

I plan on using the stock valvetrain with the HKS 280's... other brands might not be okay though.