that is a very conservative timing map. probably from you turning it down and trying to eliminate knock. the car would feel quite lame with all that low timing and even worse running all that negative timing when it knocks, not to mention high egt if done repeatedly or over an extended time. i've actually seen knock go away as timing is increased in certain circumstances. sounds like your still running the engine in. how has the oil consumption been? have you seen any oil on the spark plug threads etc. it's a long shot, but if oil i getting in the cylinders it does raise compression unpredictably. you should run 10w40 when you switch to synthetic. if there is any timing transitions that are abrupt it would be in the 90-100 load area, but that's not where you have the problem. with such low timing on boost t's hard not to have abrupt drops from vacuum to boost. what i've found though is that you can pretty much run close to stock timing all the way out to 160-180 load so you could transition things higher and smoother.

if you've checked everything over mechanically, verified your bov is working correctly, verified there is no audible knock ( i guess the race gas test is ok, but i always like to listen with det cans), verified the knock sensor is torqued down correctly and good, then it just might be time to play with the knock multiplier table in the low rpm region where you're having the issue. it would be good also if you followed that thread and did the log and plot of the knock variables discussed.

 

i had got my car brand new 11miles and it had the bypass valve put on backwards i found out what it was as soon as i tried to boost a little after the car had some miles on it and let off the gas wtf is that, the car was jumping around like crazy! i probably looked like an idiot cause i just traded my blue 06 sti w/gold rims in a week ago and i was driving my new ix mr on the parkway when a 06 blue sti w/gold rims start driving next to me like he whats to race, i didnt want to race him but i thought it was a good time to go into boost, everything was good till i let off

offtopic: the other f'ed up thing that happened to me a week after this problem was- it was poring rain the night before (first time it rained since i had the car) went to work the next morning and i see a lake in the passenger floor i mean like 3" deep this problem really pissed me off. so i cant go to the dealer that i bought it at cause it was 4+ hours away but i called them and they didnt want anything to do with it, they said maybe i left the window open so i went to my local dealer and they wouldnt look at it either cause i didnt buy it from them they told me to bring it to the dealer that i bought it from. so i wrote a nice letter to mitsubishi north america and ended up striping my whole interior out- floor, seats & center console so i can get all the water out and hair dry everything and also try and find where the leak is. so after hours of trying to find where the leak was coming from i found it, theres a hole on the passenger side of the firewall where the oem boost line comes in and the water was just running down the boost line into the car so i siliconed it up and never had a drop of water in my car ever since! this was two years ago

 

Ya it does feel like crap... I'm pretty disapointed right now. It's so conservative becuae of the "knock" issue.

I'll log those values as soon as i can and give it a look. It's my 10 year class reunion this weekend so I might not get as much work done on the car as i had hoped.

I don't see anything really "off" with the plugs. They look fine. I did have to go down to .020 to keep the pulls smooth but that COULD have been related to the BOV issue. I don't know for sure and I don't really want to up the gap while hunting for the knock. I kinda wanna keep as many variables the same as possible.

 

Oh and thanks for all your help!

 

since you have a 2.3 your engine might be a bit noisier that stock. check out this thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ble-found.html

 

thansk i've been looking for that thread. I followed it when it came out but lost it

Oh and oil consumption doesn't seem to exist at all really... I guess that's kinda weird during break in but it's not enough to talk about at all. I'm not seeing movement on the dipstick. I've only got 580 miles though.

 

OK i just finished reading the epic knock control thread...

It looks like i've got those tables/values defined for knock control already in ECU flash. Is that reasonable or am i looking at obsolete definitions?

 

I logged the values specified in the other thread. I noticed that my actual knock values were RIGHT under the threshold pretty much all the time. I got the det cans from a friend and listened. No knock so i bumped the multipliers. I was able to go with the settings in the big knock thread. Solved my knock. I then re-mapped back to stock timing and got some 8 counts that i've sense tuned out. The car feels MUUUUCH better.

Thanks for all your help everyone!

 

glad you got it sorted.. yeah that knock thread is beastly.. but in the end you really only need to know how to adjust the multiplier and log some of the knock values for confirmation. i started by taking the values in the trouble spots and multiplying them by 1.15, 1.20, 1.25 and then 1.30 which represents 15 - 30% until i got the noise tamed down a bit an false knock out of the way. enjoy and send jcsbanks a donation.. hehe.