Don't understand why people make threads like this. You would have spiked regardless of the no lift to shift. Your car could have popped at anytime, unfortunately your last aggressive event was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Rebuild and come back stronger.

 

Um...no. I don't have serious boost spikes, don't really have even minor ones - I have my boost control set up decent. A 2nd to 3rd gear pull @ 22psi shifting at 6 grand is aggressive? That's about as pansy as I ever drive.

Something happened, as there is a hole blown through my head gasket pretty bad; I'm glad I have forged pistons. I'm still positive that the NLTS for some reason was harder on it than I've ever been before, and that's saying a lot because of how I've driven this car. I'm actually fairly careful with it though the last year or two.

 

You tune boost in 4th gear on a 5spd. You have a rigged setup of NLTS, did you try it at a lower speed/rpm before attempting at WOT? Your problems were waiting to happen, simple.

 

If you spike in anything but 4th gear, then you have your own issues to sort out. My boost is fine in every gear. I can tune boost in every gear separately but I haven't needed to or gotten around to it yet. Why is only 4th gear boost important anyways? When I'm accelerating hard, I don't shift to 4th until over 100mph anyways.

Why is my NLTS setup 'rigged'? I use the tephramod for it just like 94.741% of the people on here.

From your questions, you obviously didn't read the thread. Making your posts themselves pointless even if they in fact had a point (which they don't seem to other than calling me a dumb *** or something).

 

Right now it looks like around 26psi of boost, and it's holding so far.

 

^each gear creates more load...is 1st gear boost the same as 3rd/4th?How does 1st gear boost hold at redline on a stock turbo?

I read the thread, you made a new thread about something that really doesn't have anything to do with why your gasketblew.

 

Obviously higher gear means higher load, that still doesn't say much about boost other than that boost comes on at a lower rpm in each higher gear.

I meant that the boost doesn't spike or do anything stupid in any gear, not that it's the same pressure in every gear. I can do 30psi at 7 grand if I want to with the little 16G because of ECU controlled boost (but my injectors aren't really big enough for that); I could only hold 23 or so with a MBC.

As for 1st gear - I'm not even in 1st for 2 seconds and spinning the whole time, so how would it make that much difference how much boost it has, it would just spin even more; heck I can spin enough in 2nd gear if I want to. 1st gear boost doesn't mean much in my car with over 450 lbs of torque at the wheels on normal street tires. Getting traction is the only reason I'm going to start using gear-based boost control.

 

I'm trying to decipher what you mean by this. In the end, there IS some way to have the switch actuate properly without any problem.. guaranteed. I ran it on my DSM for years without issue and it loved every minute of it.

In any case, as everyone else has said I wouldn't even test NLTS at 3k let alone 7k. Do the non-moving garage test with a 3k RPM normal limiter and a 0 load threshold and make sure it works before doing anything.

You shouldn't be resting your foot on the clutch if that is what is tripping it. If that is not what is tripping it something is not adjusted right (pedal, switch, etc).

Silly question because I'm having trouble remembering... isn't there a little rubber stopper on the pedal where it actuates the switch? Are you possibly missing that?

You can't blame software for a user error. Don't scare people away from a good thing.

 

DSM gasket selection-

Felpro 1153-1 (the $200 one)
Mitsu 4 layer MLS
Mitsu stock 3 layer
Felpro MLS (the 100 one)
Felpro paper gasket
Ebay

Then properly lap the block and head (even if freshly surfaced) till its smooth as a babys behind. Use new studs (unless you have A1/L19) after the HG job.

Ignore half of what is said on Tooners.

NLTS does not break parts, unfortunate coincidence though it sounds like you have an idea of what caused it. DSMLink and KeyDiver chips work in the exact same fashion as the Tephra mod and dont cause issues like this. You are the first person to ever report a failure like this and then "positively" identify it as the NLTS. Gramma used to say something about people that deal in absolutes...

 

Pump up means the clutch will slip when the fluid gets hot and expands because the master cylinder is pushed in slightly. I have it adjusted as close to that point as I can get.

I don't rest my foot on the clutch ever. My switch probably 'connects' when it's almost all the way pushed in, instead of when it's barely being touched which would be preferred. Yes the rubber thing is there.

I never told anyone else not to use NLTS. The NLTS rev limit DID work, I already stated that. Also, I DID DO THE TEST TEPHRA SAYS TO DO. After that, I tested it on the road at many different rpms and gears. Exactly how was there any user error involved? I didn't just enable NLTS and go on the road and try it at 8 grand. I would say I tested it more thorough than would ever be necessary. This problem occurred the first time I really made use of it, not the first, second or fifth 'test' of it.

My car is fixed an running again, as stated previously. No need to go through 67 more things.

 

Not sure I have any idea what you're talking about here, but I said it makes sense that the NLTS caused some other issue that caused a hole being blown through my head gasket. You're the ones saying it 'ABSOLUTELY' could in no possible way have anything to do with NLTS. I'll most likely work up the ***** to try NLTS again some day, and if I have no problem with it, great, I'm still not going to change my opinion on this particular instance of destruction.

A lot of people run around with 500+ hp on the stock engine, yet some break at a stock 200 some hp. It's like you're saying that one makes the other an absolute impossibility.

 

OP,

I am glad that you have your car up and running. Things like that always happen in searching for performance or spririted driving... and you are not alone on this one.

To the community....

Two statements to think about!

Statement 1: After reading the thread I can tell you that I have at least two friends that ran into the same situation by reving the engine to near the stock Rev Lim. However, they were not running Tephras patch.

However, I can not use logic on the above statement and conclude that the NLTS did not cause the rupture on your car.

Statement 2: I use NLTS on my daily driver and I engaged it every day for at least 4 times. I never had a problem with it. (Mine is setup at 4K RPMs)

However, I can not use logic and conclude that the NLTS did not cause your rupture if you used it at 6K-8K RPMs.

Using the two statements above, I can certainly say that the abuse and pushing the car to higher levels of stress broke something in the car (HG, Head bolt streched, rod failure, etc) while using NLTS.

It was not the NLTS's fault but you car's fault. ;-) Just my 0.02!

 

Saying that NLTS directly caused this is like saying Cell phones cause brain cancer. If the statement were 100% true then it would happen a lot more and be reported more. Simple fact is even in the DSM side of the 4G universe no one reports NLTS blowing a headgasket. We have 2 cars that make over 1000whp and NLTS never has lead to a gasket failure.

When I made the statement about dealing in absolutes, I didnt say that it couldnt happen. I said that you are the first person to ever have it happen and then 'Know" thats what caused it. You found a loose headstud and you admit to using a cheap headgasket. Honestly if a car is going to go through a headgasket that is freshly done its going to do it. Was your head decked or checked for flatness? If it was surfaced how smooth was the finish, if not smooth did you hand lapp it in? There are alot more possibilities that lead to the failure than the NLTS took out my gasket. How many gaskets has the car had it in its lifetime, has it been overheated, has the block been decked or checked for flat ever, has it ever been lapped.

I see these things on a daily basis so when I make comments they arent educated guesses but reflect experience in the matter firsthand. I helped beta test the knocklight/NLTS patch WAY back in the day and use it on my 574whp Evo without issue (at 29psi I might add).

It is unfortunate you had a HG failure that might have been helped along by the NLTS, but the fact is there are a lot of variables that can lead to synergy, synergy leading to failure. I might have failed to see that you said it helped it a long in its failure. It seemed like you came out the gate saying it was what caused it and there was no other issue.

 

^^^^trooth.com^^^^^