THUB,

After thinking about your map very carefully and where you are running in the curve as load tapers, I would be curious to see what timing you were seeing vs load at given rpm.

With the drop off in timing at 315 and the possibility it exceeded that I can see your timing curve swinging wide (dropping) and coming back into the map where it would see timing numbers we are more accustomed to seeing. May I have a log or 2 if its not too much trouble?

thanks

 

I bought a dc to ac converter just to keep from that happening. It was well worth about 30 bucks. You can find cheap ones at radio shack and some Walmarts.

 

I actually have two DC/AC convertors. One I could not find last time I went tuning, the other tried to set itself on fire a while back.

JohnBradley, I attached a solid second gear pull as well as a pull with a 2-3 shift. But it definitely comes nowhere close to 315 load. I think I'm hitting like 275 max with the boost where it's at. I couldn't find a third gear pull for you as is customary. sorry about that.

 

good info

 

I saw this thread referenced somewhere and remembered I left it on a little bit of a cliffhanger so I thought I'd update. Other than the fact that I spun the crap out of a rod bearing and took about .025" off one journal, nothing else was bad. Pistons looked fine, lightly scuffed from 80,000 miles, but not out of the ordinary, plugs good, cylinder walls still had crosshatch visible, though again, wear was visible.
The car still isn't running because of money, time and motivation constraints, but it will be soon, fully built. I decided that since I'm in there, why just replace the stock stuff with more stock stuff. I'm going 10:1 compression, E-85 exclusively, unless on a long road trip east, where E85 is hard to find. I've got better electronics, including a hardwired power inverter under the passenger seat . I'm going to take a lot more time tuning this time as well.
If anybody has a timing map for 10:1 compression, E85 or gas, I'd love to see it.

 

E85 is still about the same. Gas is less boost less timing. I should have something floating around from when Lucas' car was both 10:1 and on the stock ECU.

 

So are you going to listen to people that know what they are talking about now, instead of overshooting MBT and destroying bearings? You got lucky you didn't snap a rod.

 

We told you even if it wasn't knocking it was still past MBT, thats why your pistons and plugs looked ok but your bearings were gone.

If you want you can continue to destroy bearings with your too much timing be our guests but dont come back asking why.

 

Take it as a lesson learned, and be patient. I know time constraints can make that a real pain in the butt sometimes, but I would rather take the time to dial in a proper tune, than wreck the bearings on a shoddy tune, and beating the **** out of the poor engine and having to spend time fixing that...

 

Another update: the car is back together and has 500-something miles on it. I'm using the map JohnBradley posted as a starting point. I've been doing a lot of looking at the timing map thread and bought a new power inverter and WBO2. I'm pretty embarrassed to look at the map I posted up top now as well. Lessons learned. Definitely not my favorite way to learn them though.
I'm questioning whether a high compression ratio will smooth out the idle of a heavily cammed engine or if my cam timing was off before. I was able to lower target idle RPM by 300 RPM across the board and drop timing at idle from about 15* to 8* and it still idles better than before.