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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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help with cold start/timing

I'm having issues tuning my car since the addition of my build head (ported, vs and retainers) and Buddy Club 280s. My car has way too much timing at idle upon cold start no matter what I do. My previous tune was great with the stock parts but now I've had to do a lot of timing and MIVEC tweaks. The AFR's are also a bit wacky until closed loop takes over but 2.6 was acting up with my UEGO so it's not in the log. It usually goes rich then lean then stablilizes. I have 15* in my timing maps (is this too much?) and have adjusted the low coolant temp trim maps, zero'd out the MIVEC, disabled FAA Bit 9 (warmup retard) and Disabled EGR advance with Bit 11 and the car still runs 25*-30*. I have enclosed a log of startup after a few days of sitting the the cold garage and driving around. Also my ROM file (88590015). Any help is appreciated!

Jordan

http://www.megafileupload.com/en/fil...90015-zip.html
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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From: mnt vernon ny
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-searched.html this helped me so far and i have 272 and i have to run 15-16* in idle to pull 15inhg so you can go to 17-18* that made me pull real nice vac lol.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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I have a IX a lot of the stuff in that thread doesn't apply to me or tuning a MIVEC car with cams. I noticed today when I had the 25* at idle that my stock MR boost gauge was at -30 in whatever units vac is which seems like not enough, should be around -45 or 50. I have stock injectors with stock latencies and a stock intake pipe with an amsoil filter.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by hediki12
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-searched.html this helped me so far and i have 272 and i have to run 15-16* in idle to pull 15inhg so you can go to 17-18* that made me pull real nice vac lol.

Whats stock, like 5*...Damn you went real high!
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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The settings in my cold start/idle thread pertain to just about all evo's. The periphery settings are all the same accross all models.

Then to combat rev hang and such the ideas are very simular.

Oh and it is typical to have between 7 and 15 degrees of idle timing depending on your application.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Appauldd
The settings in my cold start/idle thread pertain to just about all evo's. The periphery settings are all the same accross all models.

Then to combat rev hang and such the ideas are very simular.

Oh and it is typical to have between 7 and 15 degrees of idle timing depending on your application.
Appauldd, in your thread you state "These are my settings....and should work well for 03 and 04 VIIIs".

Also, "Here is what seems to be happening....
Timing seems to be pulled so much that AFR goes way lean....21ish

I have zeroed out the warm up table....to no avail.

The car will drive, but bogs horribly below 2300 rpm. If I rev it higher, I can drive, but between shifts at low speed as I leave my sub division, it will run super lean.

I realize I should let the car warm up completely then drive. Sometimes, poor planning on my part means I have to drive my car while it is still cold.

Once the car is warm....these issues are completely gone."

This is not my issue at all

Regardless, I think I have pretty much all I can (except disabling random periphery bits) in order to get my timing in check. It doesn't seem to be working for whatever reason, I don't have rev hang issues, just too much timing and no matter what maps I adjust I cannot get it to follow. I get the theory for tuning larger cams but I cannot get the ECU to run the car correctly. I posted this so people could look at a log and my ROM, not point me towards tutorials I have already read multiple times in a long effort to correct this issue.

Thanks
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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From: mnt vernon ny
Originally Posted by CMB
Whats stock, like 5*...Damn you went real high!
thats the only way with the hks 272 cams i have that i can pull a 15 inhg vac. i would guess to pull stock vac i would have to go into the 20's
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Your MIVEC max vs coolant temp table....the values look a little odd to me. Did you max the table for a reason??

You may consider zeroing out the Low Coolant Temp Timing Trim tables.

The Percent Low Temp Timing Trim table...you have 100 in a cell that should be 0 then you have 50 in the next cell. Try zeroing out the table.

Also, in looking at your periphery bits....several HEX values look a little odd to me as well.

I recommend getting a fresh stock rom from the wiki and re-implement your tuned tables. I know this is a lot of work, but once the peripherys hex's are messed with I found that odd things will happen in the rom. I believe this is because we have not discovered 100% of the periphery routines.

I didn't mean to come off as just pushing you towards another thread, but there is a lot of time and effort put into tuning for the exact same problem all-be-it on 8s. The condition of pulling a ton of timing when cold is commonplace among all models.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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From: mnt vernon ny
Originally Posted by JordanS4
I have a IX a lot of the stuff in that thread doesn't apply to me or tuning a MIVEC car with cams. I noticed today when I had the 25* at idle that my stock MR boost gauge was at -30 in whatever units vac is which seems like not enough, should be around -45 or 50. I have stock injectors with stock latencies and a stock intake pipe with an amsoil filter.
those numbers dont seem too realistic. i mean most stock car sit 21-17inHg thats around -10 psi. i assume it changes with elevation. but my boost gauge doesnt go below 30 inHg but that would be around a perfect vacuum(which ive never seen on a turbo car. i dont know alot about mivec evos or how the different maps work together but i wish you luck in figuring out the problem.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Appauldd
Your MIVEC max vs coolant temp table....the values look a little odd to me. Did you max the table for a reason??

You may consider zeroing out the Low Coolant Temp Timing Trim tables.

The Percent Low Temp Timing Trim table...you have 100 in a cell that should be 0 then you have 50 in the next cell. Try zeroing out the table.

Also, in looking at your periphery bits....several HEX values look a little odd to me as well.

I recommend getting a fresh stock rom from the wiki and re-implement your tuned tables. I know this is a lot of work, but once the peripherys hex's are messed with I found that odd things will happen in the rom. I believe this is because we have not discovered 100% of the periphery routines.

I didn't mean to come off as just pushing you towards another thread, but there is a lot of time and effort put into tuning for the exact same problem all-be-it on 8s. The condition of pulling a ton of timing when cold is commonplace among all models.
This is what I was looking for, however

remember my issue is ADDING not PULLING timing upon cold start.

The MIVEC Max v. Coolant Temp was not touched by me, AFAIK those are the stock values (all 72).

I have tried different forms of the low temp trim map. None worked. Zero'd the coolant temp scaling out, left it alone but removed the timing in the corresponding low temp timing map idle cells. My most current version is not fully zero'd out because I believe that when the coolant temp is below 20* C there should be some sort of warmup retard.

However this should not matter because this is retarding timing, and my issue is values HIGHER than expected.

I will try on a fresh ROM thanks for the advice there.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 08:12 PM
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From: Fairfax
Originally Posted by hediki12
those numbers dont seem too realistic. i mean most stock car sit 21-17inHg thats around -10 psi. i assume it changes with elevation. but my boost gauge doesnt go below 30 inHg but that would be around a perfect vacuum(which ive never seen on a turbo car. i dont know alot about mivec evos or how the different maps work together but i wish you luck in figuring out the problem.
That's because I am talking about cm/hg not in/hg for vac. My gauge was at -30 cm/hg which is 12 in/hg. It is usually around -45/50. Make sense now?
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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If you are not retarding the timing you will have higher than expected values. When cold the car pulls timing and leans AFR to rapidly warm the engine and heat up the cat. By changing/disabeling/tweeking...whatever to the cold tables you essentially remove the timing pull and thus you run higher timing when cold.

Sometimes we have to take a step back to make two steps forward. Start with a fresh rom and go from there.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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From: mnt vernon ny
Originally Posted by JordanS4
That's because I am talking about cm/hg not in/hg for vac. My gauge was at -30 cm/hg which is 12 in/hg. It is usually around -45/50. Make sense now?
ooooo didnt know they had those lol. sry.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:41 PM
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From: Fairfax
Originally Posted by Appauldd
If you are not retarding the timing you will have higher than expected values. When cold the car pulls timing and leans AFR to rapidly warm the engine and heat up the cat. By changing/disabeling/tweeking...whatever to the cold tables you essentially remove the timing pull and thus you run higher timing when cold.

Sometimes we have to take a step back to make two steps forward. Start with a fresh rom and go from there.
That makes sense, but what doesn't make sense is why it still doesn't run the high octane 1/2/3 timing map values when it's warm whether or not the cold start tables are enabled or disabled, stock or tweaked. I guess I'll try a new ROM but I did do that a few times by re-installing/uninstalling ECUFlash for unrelated issues so it should be a pretty fresh one. Any other input or similar issues?
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:32 AM
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never mind
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