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connected limitless cable then all hell broke loose

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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:09 AM
  #16  
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From: nz
Originally Posted by hearnoevo
Hamish, can you give me the link for removing pin 9 in the obd2 plug that you mentioned? Do you just grab it and twist it off? So just to verify, it won't affect flashing or logging the car by removing pin 9 correct?

I looked under the car and it appears the etacs box is attached to the back of the fuse box. Do you just unbolt the fuse box and remove both at the same time? Anyone have a tutorial for this? Trying to remove the etacs box without removing the fuse box first seems impossible.

• yeah remove pin9 with some long nose pliers twist it around both ways twice, then in a full circle it will break off cleanly, before plugging it in again.
Here is the link that shows the pin9 on the cable:
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...hi-diagnostics

• yeah the etacs is the box behind the fusebox

• Here is some ETACS information I posted on my website I found in the Evo7 JDM manual, doesn't look very helpful though. http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...ishi-etacs-sws
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:15 AM
  #17  
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From: cali
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Thanks for the help guys! I have another etacs box on the way thanks to mike from the forum. So, once I disconnect the battery, remove the old etacs unit and replace it with the new one, it should correct all the problems correct? Except for the key remote fobs I mean. I'll have to take it to the dealer to get those reprogrammed correct?

It just seems weird why the etacs unit would fry if there was no power to the cable. I've done the same thing with my old evo with no problems whatsoever.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:26 AM
  #18  
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From: cali
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Hamish, on your etacs information link above, any idea what lighting switch they are talking about? Headlight switch maybe?

1. Entering adjustment mode
(1) Set the following switches as indicated.
• Driver’s door switch: ON (driver’s door open)
• Key reminder switch: ON (ignition key removed)
• Lighting switch: OFF
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #19  
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I had the same problem happen to me today while trying to read my stock ROM for the first time. I have a IX SE. Car sounded the horn momentarily, rear wipers came on and left turn signal stays on. Unplugged 1.3U cable and battery, no luck. I did not remove pin 9 from my cable, hindsight i wish i had.

Haven't started the car yet, have downpipe off for WB bung install. Do i need to go ahead and source a new ETACS? Will taking it apart show any visual damage?

Thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #20  
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From: cali
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Hmm, mine is a ix se also, I wonder if there's something to do with that. my old evo was a ix ssl and never had a problem like this.

I would take your car to the dealer and see if they can reset the etacs first. If they can't then you can look for another etacs unit.

After this happend, I can start the car okay aside from having no response from the key fobs, left turn signal stays on but flashers do not work, seat belt light in dash stays on, but you can pull the fuse to turn them off and make it driveable.

I tried reading the rom last night and was successful, so I am able to flash the car, although I had to use ecuflash 1.40. My version of 1.30 kept giving me the error message unable to connect. Evoscan works fine with all my versions.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #21  
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From: Outside Philadelphia
Yeah i hate to take it to a stealership, you know. When i bought the car 4 months ago the key fob never worked, tried programing it using the hazard button and all, no luck there. not sure if thats relevent.

Since its not my DD i want to fix it right in lieu of driving without turn signals or wipers. I have 1.42 v ecuflash, ill try to read my rom tomorrow after work.

Just seems weird how it's not a common issue for others, you would think many ppl would have experienced this?
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
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From: cali
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Curious, when the problem occurred did you have your drivers door open with the ignition key removed?

Normally I sit in the passenger seat, connect the cables and then connect it to the laptop. Then I open ecuflash or evoscan. When the problem occurred, I had the driver's door open, ignition key removed, and I think this somehow put it into adjustment mode and screwed everything up.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #23  
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Yes I had the driver's door open and key out when I plugged mine in. I would have thought that would be fairly common for tuners though as well?
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 05:01 PM
  #24  
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Yeah same, door open and key out with cable already connected to laptop. I agree Eisen, seems like a common method that tuners would use.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #25  
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From: cali
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That seems to be the common link between the three of us. Only difference is mine wasn't even connected to the laptop yet. It can be easily verified although I don't think anyone would want to try it on their car.

I think a lot of tuners already have the key in the ignition in the "off" position before they connect the cables, since they will need to turn it in the "on" position in order to read or write using ecuflash anyways.

There should probably be a warning posted regarding this, or at least mentioned in the tutorials showing how to start tuning using ecuflash and evoscan.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 08:32 PM
  #26  
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I have a 2006 SE and its doing the same thing. I had the drivers door opened and key out and cable not plugged into labtop. Horn went off rear wiper and right turn signal stayed on steady. Checked the price of a ETACS unit...300 bucks. Has anyone found how to maybe reset our ETACS because 300 is a little steep for someone who just paid close to 200 just to tune and didnt know about pin 9. I wish I knew all this because i would have requested it removed.

Now im stuck shelling out more money all because i wanted to read the ecu......Knowing what i know now i should have spent the extra and got the tactrix cable.

I will continue to try and find a way to reset it....I'll post back with results. We need to figure this out

Derek
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #27  
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Unfortunately Derek, there does not seem to be a way to reset the ECU and I believe the problem is that the ETACS unit itself has been damaged by this process. The only solution seems to be to replace the unit.

I agree this is extremely frustrating and costly. Not only am I up for $200-$300 for a new ETACS unit (plus any labour costs to sync the new unit to my key), I have also paid another $100 for an auto electrician to tell me the wiring is fine, plus another $150 for a new battery which has been ruined by the ETACS unit going crazy.

I'm not impressed that this has all been caused by plugging in a limitless cable. The big question is why has this only happened for a small few and not others? Have you all recently purchased your cable? Perhaps we have got a bad batch or something?
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #28  
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I bought my cable within the last month. Is there a chance we got bad cables? I hate going to the stealership. Man this sucks

Derek

Last edited by blackevo86; Aug 22, 2010 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #29  
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I'm not sure if this will help at all with this issue, but these are the pages from the service manual that talk about the ETACS ECU and the enable/disable of the different modes:

Well, I was going to upload them, but the damn 100kb limit makes that difficult. Even cropping jpgs out of the single extracted pdf files makes it almost unreadable.

Maybe I can post them up tomorrow anyway.
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 05:51 AM
  #30  
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Scribd or Google Docs, perhaps?
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