Crossroads........
Crossroads........
Well, I am at a crossroads.
My Tuner who is a great guy is a really busy dude. And sometimes trying to link up in regards to getting my tunes sorted out I can be left waiting for a week or more for a response.
So I talk to him last week and he said that we could work out a map by the end of the week.
I recently added an intake and a UCIP earlier this week. So now my car is just sitting there waiting for a sign of life to know if I will get a map or not.
So here are my options:
1)Finally attempt to richen my map up my self with someones help and guidance
2)Get another tuner
3)Drop ECUFlash and Go Cobb AP
Suggestions?
My Tuner who is a great guy is a really busy dude. And sometimes trying to link up in regards to getting my tunes sorted out I can be left waiting for a week or more for a response.
So I talk to him last week and he said that we could work out a map by the end of the week.
I recently added an intake and a UCIP earlier this week. So now my car is just sitting there waiting for a sign of life to know if I will get a map or not.
So here are my options:
1)Finally attempt to richen my map up my self with someones help and guidance
2)Get another tuner
3)Drop ECUFlash and Go Cobb AP
Suggestions?
I am very interested in learning and being able to do this on my own. I've been doing some reading on the forums and the Merlins how to guide but still don't think I have the knowledge to know which cells to enrichen and very afraid to screw up the car that I barely afford..lol
I understand..
if your interested then I say give it a go.
I will give you some guidance:
step 0) download the ROM from your car (ecuflash -> read ecu -> mitsu CAN vehicles 2006+)
step 1) since you think the car might be running lean, you should richen up your loaded areas, I would select load points 120 -> 320 and ALL rpm ranges and then richen (ie subtract) about 1 full point of the map.
ie if your map says 11.2 then make it say 10.2
step 2) upload the ROM (ecuflash -> write ecu)
step 3) go do a 3rd gear pull (2000->7000rpm WOT) and log it in evoscan (you wanna log rpm, load, boost, tps, timing, knocksum, ipw, afr)
step 4) review the log, and make additional changes if required (you want AFR's to target about 11.3, no knock, for 98RON/93oct fuel you want boost about 25psi tapering down to 18psi after 6000rpm (stock turbo))
*** you need to ensure your wideband is calibrated and giving accurate information
If you have problems/concerns/questions, post up pics here
if your interested then I say give it a go.
I will give you some guidance:
step 0) download the ROM from your car (ecuflash -> read ecu -> mitsu CAN vehicles 2006+)
step 1) since you think the car might be running lean, you should richen up your loaded areas, I would select load points 120 -> 320 and ALL rpm ranges and then richen (ie subtract) about 1 full point of the map.
ie if your map says 11.2 then make it say 10.2
step 2) upload the ROM (ecuflash -> write ecu)
step 3) go do a 3rd gear pull (2000->7000rpm WOT) and log it in evoscan (you wanna log rpm, load, boost, tps, timing, knocksum, ipw, afr)
step 4) review the log, and make additional changes if required (you want AFR's to target about 11.3, no knock, for 98RON/93oct fuel you want boost about 25psi tapering down to 18psi after 6000rpm (stock turbo))
*** you need to ensure your wideband is calibrated and giving accurate information
If you have problems/concerns/questions, post up pics here
So the questions start....
So I just took the last map I had loaded. Instead of going out to read the map off the car.
My Mod list is:
Greddy Catback
Ams Race Cat
Grimspeed BCS
Hitting 25psi tapering down to 20
11.5-11.3 AFR @redline
Adding AEM intake
Tomei UICP
So I brought up the map and highlighted Cells 120-->320, I hit the "]" and watched till my highest load cell and highest rpm range read exactly one point lower. 11.5 changed to 10.5.
Now the first time I did this i did it opposite. I watched the lowest rpm in the lower load cell drop one point. but that dropped me more than one point at the other end.
Which is right?
Do I have to dial back my timing at all? As I heard I will spool faster now with these new mods.
Also how does the cold affect my tune. To my logic small mistakes in cold weather could add up to bigger mistakes as the weather is warmer.
So I just took the last map I had loaded. Instead of going out to read the map off the car.
My Mod list is:
Greddy Catback
Ams Race Cat
Grimspeed BCS
Hitting 25psi tapering down to 20
11.5-11.3 AFR @redline
Adding AEM intake
Tomei UICP
So I brought up the map and highlighted Cells 120-->320, I hit the "]" and watched till my highest load cell and highest rpm range read exactly one point lower. 11.5 changed to 10.5.
Now the first time I did this i did it opposite. I watched the lowest rpm in the lower load cell drop one point. but that dropped me more than one point at the other end.
Which is right?
Do I have to dial back my timing at all? As I heard I will spool faster now with these new mods.
Also how does the cold affect my tune. To my logic small mistakes in cold weather could add up to bigger mistakes as the weather is warmer.
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You should be using "[" to decrease it.
It should be pretty much linear change across the map...
if it spools faster you might need to add more fuel in that range (ie 3000rpm 140-180load)
if you get knock, then reduce timing...
It should be pretty much linear change across the map...
if it spools faster you might need to add more fuel in that range (ie 3000rpm 140-180load)
if you get knock, then reduce timing...
Yes you are correct. I hit the "[" . Since I am so paranoid I did like 6 times. I figured out that the numbers were changing every odd number so 11.3-11.1-10.9 and so on. and the other end was changing by even numbers.
I haven't ran it yet. The weather isn't very nice for a third gear pull.
which leaves me inside. Clicking away on maps comparing my modded to unmodded. Which helps in the learning sense.
I haven't ran it yet. The weather isn't very nice for a third gear pull.
which leaves me inside. Clicking away on maps comparing my modded to unmodded. Which helps in the learning sense.
Well I should stop reading stuff. As I came across Maf scaling and realized I should have went with an intake that uses the stock Maf housing for tuning ease. I thought it would just be a little bit more fuel.
What do I do now?
What do I do now?
#2 or #3 If your tuner doesn't value you as a customer then he's going to treat your car the same way while he's tuning it. Any legit tuner will allow you to schedule a tune so you know exactly when you'll be getting tuned.
It doesn't use the stock maf housing. The pipe is a bit larger eyeballing a tape measure it is between a 1/8-1/4 inch larger. The filter at the end of the housing is 3x5. So the inner diameter is about 2.9 inches.



