guys,

i'm having a problem. i get no knock when i drive WOT but when i am cruising in say 5th on the highway and i gradually role into boost i get knock 6-10 counts. i tried using evoscan to track the affected cells and drop timing and smoothen out the area but it still happens all the time. i cant overtake cars without going WOT.

am i missing something? please help and advise me.

thank you.

 

I'm having this same problem

 

How are your engine mounts? Is there anything like an uicp that could be hitting the side rail for a second when you hit the gas? When you start going into boost you are increasing load drastically in a short period of time. The engine will "jerk" a little as you're doing this which can cause something to bang for a second against either other then once you're in boost the engine will rock itself back into position. It's just that first couple of seconds the torque can shift the engine back and forth. Basically have you tested voltage to ensure this is real knock and not phantom knock. Is it doing this eveytime or is it random.

 

I too have had this issue. Typically rpm is in the 2.5 to 3.5 range for me. I did so many checks to try to find if it was real. I always assumed it may have had something to do with the egr system and its timing. I've tried 110,octane fuel and still got it. I built a cheap set (like 10$ total cheap) of det cans as the final test to see if it was real before detuning the sensor in the "low" rpm range.

 

Also have this problem. Car is great during the pulls but i have random knock in the 2.5-3k range 1-4 counts. tried pulling timing, adding timing, making it richer. doesnt change a thing.

 

If you can't influence it by adjusting timing and fuel, you should look to make sure you don't have anything underhood rubbing, down pipe hitting the pan, etc.

 

I recently found out that my random knock was due to a bad sensor. You guys should just put a new sensor in. It's relatively affordable to do so and I can't think of a more important sensor to have functioning properly.

 

I wish that was my issue. I tried a new sensor with no luck (yes I torqued it to spec).

 

I had the same issue years ago and ended up being the sensor. The sensor is relatively cheap, but you need a slotted socket to torque correctly. I've posted socket size and slot dimensions in a thread years back, you can search for it to get the info. Purchasing the tool from Mitsubishi will cost you three time as much, if you can't modify the socket yourself.

 

we can't keep telling him to do the same thing that he already just did guys. we have to get more creative with ideas. did you delete the egr without zeroing out the map in your ROM and disabling it?

 

Any cels???

P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Lowlq Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)

 

ammm? no i dont think i zeroed the map. i have to check. i will be changing the knock sensor also to be sure since my car in a 2002 so its 12 years old.

thanks for the ideas guys!!!

 

I thought this was the op. My bad, I was driving when I posted about new ideas. If your sensor is that old, yeah, change it.

 

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