hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

I connected the limitless cable to my car so I could download the stock rom. As soon as I connected the cable, horn honks, left turn signal stays on, then windshield washer wipers keep moving. Car went haywire and I didn't even have a laptop connected to it yet. I disconnected the battery for five minutes and still the problem is happening. Please help, I need to get to work tomorrow morning.

Boosted Tuning

iTrader: (12)

I IM'd Hamish this link.

hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

thanks for your help! Any idea where the fuse for the windshield wipers and rear wiper are located? I need to shut them off so I can drive the car. I also need to shut off the left turn signal.

hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

I found the fuses for the windshield wipers and left turn signal, so at least I can drive the car without looking at me like I'm a dumba$$.

I'll try to contact hamish to find out why it's doing this. I flashed my old ix ssl many times without this kind of problem.

Benja

This is the same thing that happened to my mate this week in his JDM E7.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-ecu-read.html

Plugged cable in, and blinkers, rear wiper, squirters etc. went nuts.
And after unplugging they won't stop if plugged back in, suspected damaged ETACS (body module) or the like.
Went to Mitsu, they were scratchign their heads, and their MUT-II tool brought no codes up.

Not good.

Eisen7

As Benja posted above, I have the same problems as you after trying to do a simple ECU read with a limitless cable. Not good

The best info I have been able to find so far is on the MLR. Seems a couple of people have had problems with indicators, central locking or wipers and that's all linked back to the ETACS unit.

Causes can be related to the wiring or connectors on the passenger side footwell:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...ighlight=ETACS

Or this guy found he had disturbed his fog light switch when mucking around with the cables. Once he put it all back, it fixed his issue:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...ighlight=ETACS

http://www.geekmapped.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=32

I've visually checked all my cables for corrosion or burning and also made sure I didn't bump any plugs or wires around the ODBII port. Still having the same issue, so I have to pull fuses so I can drive the car.

Next step is to take my car to an auto electrician to check all the wiring to the ETACS unit and make sure there are no issues there. Failing that, I could be up for a new ETACS ECU

All this from trying to do a simple ECU read! Will let you know if I get to the bottom of it.

evoscan

iTrader: (-1)

Hi guys, this is a very rare problem, never heard of before..

looking at my technical webpage:
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...hi-diagnostics

I see that etacs is on pin9.

Pin9 is not used for mitsubishi reflashing, therefore I sell many cables without pin9. And many opt to have pin9 removed with pliers. theres even a guide on my website to do this.

Pin9 is however used for subaru reflashing, so it would be possible that a subaru read/write was selected by mistake? and activated the etacs. but you say you hadn't plugged the usb into the laptop yet, maybe that might have something to do with the FTDI chip not yet initiliazed the pins to the correct state which I think is done by power from the laptop. Vehicle ecus are normally very resilient, I'm surprised that any activity on pin9 could do such a thing.

This same thing would happen if you were using an openport 2.0 cable, because the pins are wired and located in the same places.

I'll look into this further, and I'll get a couple of etacs ECUs on my bench and see what their voltage limitations, and if the cable is even capable of reaching these.

Eisen7

Thanks Hamish Any info you can provide would be much appreciated.

Eisen7

Also, I just checked the 1.3u cable I was using and it definitely has pin 9. And as you mention, my issue occurred before I had even plugged the cable into the USB on the laptop. It's very strange.

I'm hoping perhaps a wire or something between the ETACS and the front ECU has fried itself rather than the whole ETACS ECU.

hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

yes, same situation happend with me, the laptop wasn't even connected yet and ignition was not in the "on" position. White connector went on fine, but the minute I tried to connect the obd2 connector to the car, the horn honked like it set off the alarm, then horn went off but left turn signal light stayed on and seatbelt light stayed on in the dash even if you had the seat belt clicked in.

So now I'm running with no turn signals, no wipers, and no alarm. Car runs fine but still getting the seat belt light in the dash.

So would a dealer be able to fix this? How much does it cost to replace the etacs ecu? Just seems strange that the car would act like this just by pushing the obd2 connector on the car in the off position. That means even using a check engine light reader would do the same thing.

evoscan

iTrader: (-1)

yeah i would highly recommend those others reading this thread that just datalog and tune JDM evo7s, to remove pin9 from the cable. or pop pin9 out from the OBDII port. The cable design hasn't changed for 3 years, and tuners have tuned 1000s of evo7s I'm sure.

Some of the pins on the openport2.0 and openport 1.3U cable are put to a ground state when the usb chip is powered up by the laptop, this could have put the ETACS pin9 in such a state that it wasn't expecting, and perhaps the electronics inside the ETACs wasn't up to the job. I'll find some ETACs ecus at my local wreckers, and I'll pull some apart. Also it would be good if you can take your etacs ecu out, and open the lid, and take a photo and email a high res photo me, and I'll check it out.

some other Etacs pics:
http://www.2gstratus.org/forums/lofi...hp?t25803.html
http://30-130.com/showthread.php?p=3177492

what about some inadvertent etacs diagnostics modes perhaps?
http://www.lancerregister.com/showpo...6&postcount=39

There is lots of strange things I'm finding that the Etacs ecu is capable of: and it only happens when in diagnostics mode.. I wonder what mode you managed to get the ETACs into, probably stores settings internally so maybe a full battery disconnect won't make any difference.... anyone got the Evo7 JDM manual to check it out?

1. bridge terminals 1 and 4. (yes openport 1.3U does this when plugged in) 1&4 on openport 1.3U cable is connected for full diagnostics mode.
2. Press the hazzard switch 6 times. <-- not sure what this does, the manual should say.
3. press the lock button on remote 3 times. <-- not sure what this does, the manual should say.

Eisen7

I found the part of the Evo 7 service manual which contains the SWS (Smart Wiring System) troubleshooting guide and includes wiring details for the ETACS ECU.

My copy was named 'G54.PDF' and is titled 'Chassis Electrical'.

Not sure if that helps at all. I might be able to upload it tomorrow if you think it's of any use.

I've printed it out for the auto electrician tomorrow with a few other bits and pieces. Fingers crossed he can locate the issue for me

hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

I'll probably take my car to the dealer this saturday to see if they can connect to the etacs ecu and fix it. If not then I guess I'll have to replace it if it's fried.

So what is the proper way to connect the cable? I always connected the cables first, then to the laptop, then turn ignition to on position and start ecuflash and evoscan programs.

Should I be connecting cable usb to laptop first, then white flash connector, black obd2 connector, then ignition to on postion, then start ecuflash and evoscan programs?

hearnoevo

iTrader: (12)

Hamish, can you give me the link for removing pin 9 in the obd2 plug that you mentioned? Do you just grab it and twist it off? So just to verify, it won't affect flashing or logging the car by removing pin 9 correct?

I looked under the car and it appears the etacs box is attached to the back of the fuse box. Do you just unbolt the fuse box and remove both at the same time? Anyone have a tutorial for this? Trying to remove the etacs box without removing the fuse box first seems impossible.

Eisen7

You don't need to unbolt the fuse box to get to the ETACS unit. It's sort of embedded in the back of the fuse box kinda like a battery sits in a mobile phone.

It comes off by pressing a latch at the very top of the back of the fuse box (reach up behind the fuse box from behind and feel around at the top - you need to be a bit of a contortionist!). When you're holding down the latch, pull back on the ETACS unit, and hold the fuse box in place with your other hand to try and get them to separate. There is no latch or anything at the bottom of the ETACS unit, it's just sort of hinged at the bottom, so will come away when you swing it apart from the top. Hope this helps!

Here's pics of mine when I took it out:



As you can sort of see in this pic, the latch is at the top (left of pic), and the hinged bit at the bottom (right of pic).


My ETACS unit is fried apparently and I am now trying to source a new one.