Dont pay attention to 3g. The kids knowledge about the evo community is about the size of a pea. From my research, he likes to troll, talk above his head, etc.... the usual wannabe fast kid.

 

Does it have a silione intake pipe?

Also, why is this thread in the Dyno results forum?

 

No it has an aluminum intake pipe. I don't know why its in here.

 

I installed new FIC 2150cc yesterday and the same issue exists.

I will swap the inline filter next just to see. I have the car setup tune wise so it only goes high 12's when the issue occurs now for safety purposes.

The cars still on a stock rail, which I would like to see changed as well so each cyl gets an even amount of fuel distribution.

 

Interesting to hear. Sorry for the bad news

Something to think about.

1) Does this happen when there is a full tank of gas? Half tank? Low tank? (Could point to a leak on one of the housing assembly hoses.) Cavitation or loss of pressure somewhere in the system? Log/see pressure at high rpm.

2) Can pump voltage be logged? Bad grounds near the pump?

3) Have you tried a new resistor pack delete? Or measure the current one? Just a thought.

I like to brain storm

 

We have it figured out I think. I performed another boost leak test last night, and noticed the 2nd pump wasn't turning on with the car off. After checking the vacuum line routing, I seen the owner of the car routed the pressure switch up badly.

Instead of going to a direct boost source, he T'ed it off the 3 port (wastegate side), so the pressure switch never seen a signal until around 23psi after the 3 port opened up with the key to the on position to charge the 3 port.

Im 99% sure this is it. I'll be testing it later tonight and will post an update once I know more.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Issue is resolved. It was what I mentioned above. The car made over 600whp last night on E79.

I will share its full results later in a different thread once were all finished with it here.

 

Nice, good find.

 

Hmm... if fuel pressure would have been looked at off the get go, you would have seen that...

Glad you guys got it sorted

 

Yep, but just like AFR, It doesn't come out and just say "Hey its your vacuum lines".

So even after knowing its a pressure issue you still have to dig around like I did.

Every car we diagnose and fix we learn from it, so this will only help me for future cars to diagnose them quicker.

We are starting to see a lot. Anything that's possible to occur will occur. I've troubleshooted so many weird things this year its crazy. I love the fact I'm getting the cars in person now. It makes tuning them a lot easier and we fix a lot of issues before tuning, which makes it so much easier to make power on the car and allow it to drive better afterwords.

It also is good physical activity. Sitting on a chair all day doing email/remote tunes drains your body and is very unhealthy. At only age 34 I am feeling the consequences.

So far I know almost every time I posted what we diagnosed someone else posted and said they had the issue and I helped them troubleshoot their car, so knowing I'm helping others also at the same time makes me feel good as well.

The reason it was overlooked the first time on a boost leak test is because we pulled the fuse to stop the system from turning on during the test. For now on I'm gonna leave it in until I verify everything is working as it should, or inspect the vac line routing closer.

It was a good learning experience. Now I know to look out for this as well when it comes to things that can be wrong.

Thanks for your help/recommendations in here as well.

 

No prob, like I said glad you got it sorted... I have come to not trust Hobbs switches as mine started to die and was causing a lean condition... didn't completely fail, but wasn't producing full voltage for some reason as it heated up a bit... when I would do boost leak tests with customers cars with a hobbs switch I would always make sure it had a dedicated vacuum source and test it separately first to determine what PSI it was turning the second pump on at, and to verify the housing or inner seal wasn't leaking. Just things to think about in the future, to cut down on diagnosing those types of issues

 

I have had a pressure switch fail on me also. A lot of people run them, but there is definitely failures out there that do occur, and if not caught right away, can get expensive real quick.

I'm going to pay close attention for now on how things are routed as well, and verify the pump kicks in. Always learning on the job no matter how many cars we do.

 

I recently went through an issue like this. I don't want to prolong the point too much, but a fuel pressure gauge will definitely help you to diagnose the issue more quickly. I was also late in putting the pressure gauge on when trying to diagnose my issue and went through a similar process of checking this and checking that. With the pressure gauge, in one pull you could have ruled out the injectors,ecu,rom and wideband sensor as issues.

Glad you got it sorted out!

 

makes life easier for sure!

Thats the beauty of the forums.

I didnt notice the culprit to your problem specifically spelled out, but i am gathering it had something to do with the line feeding the pressure switch.

I had a different pressure switch issue, that was only observed while running a pressure gauge.

my hobbs switch worked if you pushed it internally with a small allen wrench, but @ boost the switch didnt work. FP gauge helped bracket my issue.

Glad you sorted it out.

 

Ya we will make a universal fuel pressure gauge kit for troubleshooting future cars. Thanks guys.