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I have a freshly-rebuilt engine and we went to the dyno a few days ago and the final numbers were 416whp/355wtq at 25psi. 380whp/305wtq at 20 psi. My tuner told me it'd be pointless to raise the boost anymore as it was not responding well to raising boost pressure. Tests done on Dynojet. Was also told if a significant portion was removed from the head, adjustable cam gears may also help.
I want to get to the 460 to 490 whp range and 370 to 380 wtq range soon enough. My set-up is listed below. I know for a fact already that my cams are limiting me and an upgrade to GSC S2 can help, but can anything else be improved or just those cams can get me to my goal?
Spec:
ECMLink equipped ECU
Freshly rebuilt stock block (with honed cylinders, polished head)
K&N cone intake
NGK BPR7ES spark plugs
Evoshop Thailand (MSD-brand) COP kit
AEM 340 fuel pump (hardwired)
AEM fuel pressure regulator
SARD fuel rail
ID 1050x (freshly cleaned and tested)
FP turbo manifold
FP red
HKS 272 cams
HKS intercooler
Tial wastegate
Tial BOV
Ingersoll-rand boost solenoid
Fabricated aluminum 3" chargepipes
Fabricated stainless steel O2 housing w/ dump pipe
Fabricated 3" stainless steel downpipe to midpipe
Tomei Expreme 3" titanium midpipe to tailpipe
AEM AFR gauge, Defi oil P, fuel P and boost gauges
AEM oil T and coolant T gauges
JDM VIII RS front LSD
Comp Clutch Stage II
20W50 oil
I live in a tropical country where normal temp ranges from 25 to 30degC all year-round. Purpose of the car is a weekend warrior with occasional track use so hitting max boost at 4.5k to 5k is good. I'm attaching the dyno sheet and a photo of my engine bay layout for reference (photo does not show the new COP yet, had trouble with Spoolinup COP always fouling 1 coil at at time).
Last edited by bpdgzz; Mar 6, 2023 at 04:31 AM.
Reason: added more stuff i remembered from my spec sheet
Go to GSC R1 cams with the appropriate valve springs (GSC 5041). With 100 octane (as long as it's 100 aki) you could prob lean the AFR about half a point. What does timing look like? I would worry about the amount taken off the head for resurfacing. Even .010" isn't a degree of cam cam timing.
Go to GSC R1 cams with the appropriate valve springs (GSC 5041). With 100 octane (as long as it's 100 aki) you could prob lean the AFR about half a point. What does timing look like? I would worry about the amount taken off the head for resurfacing. Even .010" isn't a degree of cam cam timing.
Sorry, just to clarify, do you mean that even if 0.010" was taken off the head, that amount is too little to be correctable by adjustable cam gears?
Clean build and the numbers are not bad at all. Do you know which rods were used in your rebuild? In the future, you can likely get a bit more torque if the tuner ramps up the boost (WGDC) sooner. The FP red is a very capable turbo.
Clean build and the numbers are not bad at all. Do you know which rods were used in your rebuild? In the future, you can likely get a bit more torque if the tuner ramps up the boost (WGDC) sooner. The FP red is a very capable turbo.
Clean build and the numbers are not bad at all. Do you know which rods were used in your rebuild? In the future, you can likely get a bit more torque if the tuner ramps up the boost (WGDC) sooner. The FP red is a very capable turbo.
No, this car is a single scroll FP housing, spool up looks about right.
No, this car is a single scroll FP housing, spool up looks about right.
Gotcha. That with the stock rods means that this is probably a good place to stop. Though, the stock ix turbo can get up and go to that level with the right fuel
The previous owner of my Evo had that chip installed. Yes, it's that one. I and the previous owner have a common tuner who pretty much prefers having ECMLink on all the Evos/DSMs (yes, even evos 4-9) he tunes as it makes his job easier as he says.
