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UPDATE: Installed a new AEM map sensor and took it to the dyno. I had a little mishap on the dyno during the last pull at 46 psi. The car pushed through but my 18 tooth trigger plate hit the crank sensor. I'm currently installing the Kiggly 12 tooth trigger kit and will update later this year. The car made 811 whp and 660 wtq. As stated in other posts, a 4 inch intercooler, ported head, intake manifold and some 2600 injectors will be needed moving forward. Updated dyno sheet below.
I decided to post this for anyone who wanted to see more results on a precision 6870 with a 4g64 engine. I searched for a while and couldn't really find anything on power and spool. I am definitely loving this setup so far and the car feels insanely responsive on the street. We ended up maxing out the MAP sensor on the Link G4+ so I was limited to 44 psi. The car also retains the factory AC for those summer months. Next up is to get a new a new sensor and go back for another tune. Let's all pray she holds together!
#MashAllah #Alhumdulillah
Engine:
- 2.4LR 4G64
- Weisco 1400HD pistons
- Manley turbotuff 156 mm rods
- Manley 100 mm billet crank
- Upgraded oil pan
- 1/2 filled block
- O-ringed
- Ross Sport 18 tooth trigger plate
- Evo 6 stock radiator
- Siruda 87 mm 4G64 head gasket
- Sparktech CDI
Head:
- Stock un-ported head
- Kiggly valvetrain
- GSC R2 cams
- AEM cam gears
- Stock intake manifold
- Volkswagon MK4 electronic throttle body
- Euro Logic catch can
- Buschur vented oil cap
- NGK BPR8EIX gapped at .018
Turbo:
- Precision 6870 1.0ar T4 twin scroll
- English Racing T4 manifold with twin tial wastegate
- ADMotorsport downpipe with v-band to turbo
- STM intercooler piping piping with tial blow off valve
- VRSF 3.5 inch intercooler
- 4 inch RK titanium intake with AEM cone
Drivetrain:
- Rebuilt 5 speed trans by ADMotorsports w/stock final drive
- Rebuilt ACD center diff by ADMotorsports
- Restacked rear diff
- Stock final drive
- Quartermaster twin (street)
Engine management:
- Link G4+ ecu with built in 45 psi map sensor
- Oil, fuel, and coolant fail-safe pressure sensors
- GM flex fuel sensor
- Grimspeed boost controller
- Drive by wire with Evo X pedal
Fuel system:
- Radium hanger with twin Walbro 525 pumps
- Radium FPR with pulse dampner
- Radium underbody fuel filter
- ID 2000 injectors
- (-6 AN) feed and return Raceflux hose
- Pump E-85
Last edited by MuslimEvoFreak; Jul 10, 2024 at 11:35 PM.
That has since been adjusted once the finalizations occured with the tune. I rev to 8k now but it was dialed slightly back by 1-2 psi due to the limit of the map sensor. The graph gets shaky at the 44 psi limit. As said above though I can rev a little more but for reliability and logitivity purposes we left it at 8k.
2.4LR is totally fine to 8300. 8000 will help it last a long time. We (dont recommend) let ours rev out to 9000ish when we want to play around in the 1/4 mile
2.4LR is totally fine to 8300. 8000 will help it last a long time. We (dont recommend) let ours rev out to 9000ish when we want to play around in the 1/4 mile
First I want to test and see how well this head gasket holds up at high boost. Currently coolant temps get up to 8 psi at those levels. Is 50 psi next....we'll see.
First I want to test and see how well this head gasket holds up at high boost. Currently coolant temps get up to 8 psi at those levels. Is 50 psi next....we'll see.
Ours makes 955 at 44psi. Doesn't make more boost after that.
Where are you measuring coolant pressure? And are you running a thermostat?
Ours makes 955 at 44psi. Doesn't make more boost after that.
Where are you measuring coolant pressure? And are you running a thermostat?
Can you elaborate more on that? Are you saying the turbo runs out of steam around 44 psi? What housing is this on? What dyno? We have a coolant pressure sensor for safety that measures the coolant pressure in real time under load. At 43 psi my system coolant pressure holds steady at 8 psi. The oem coolant cap holds 16 psi or 1.1 bar. This was done due to having a 2.4 with a headgasket nobody has ever used. So far we are impressed and yes I am using an oem thermostat.
Yeah, turbo wouldnt make more boost. Sorry, it was 945whp. This was 45psi. Car traps about 150 in the 1/4 at full weight, and running street tires. AFR is also street fun safe at an 11.0.
(This the part where I make a comment about mustang dyno numbers being "variable", seems like yours reads about on par with a dynojet)
Where are you measuring coolant pressure? If in the block or on the head, 8psi is way low. The water pump will make 40psi+ in the block with thermostat restricting flow. Take the thermostat out and that pressure drops significantly.
If in the upper hose or inlet tank on the radiator, 8psi is pretty normal if your coolant temp is normal.
That has since been adjusted once the finalizations occured with the tune. I rev to 8k now but it was dialed slightly back by 1-2 psi due to the limit of the map sensor. The graph gets shaky at the 44 psi limit. As said above though I can rev a little more but for reliability and logitivity purposes we left it at 8k.
I have the same 2.4lr, 8k+ is still ok if built ok
7.5,7,7,7 still gives you 5k in the next gear up where your power is heading up.
I mean. Our car makes the power. Usually the only way to get a PTE Gen2 6870 to the 1000 wheel mark on a 4g is 50-52psi and the big vband hot side. We don't have any instrumentation pre/post intercooler but I do wonder if we would pick up 20-30 wheel with a 4 or 4.5" core.
