Post exact weights of weight reduction you have done!
id venture to say my car is close to your weight now with the stock rims, rotors, and driveshaft but i wont know the exact weight until i put it back on the scales....maybe i can borrow curts or take it to the truck stop
o and my goal is 2775 no driver. if i do the AMS carbon roof i should hit it no problem. then i might try for 2750 no driver. if the local tracks give me issues with the new NHRA rules and BS then ill be removing my cage and then going to track rentals only. so that should put me 26XX ish.
To add: I weigh 140, so race weight with me in the car is 2986. I will be loosing more weight though once I do a few more mods.
Last edited by badev0; Feb 10, 2012 at 12:16 PM.
My brother Dan and I have been working on the actual ECU/engine harness the last two days. The amount of wiring that we have removed after I thought I had it all gone blows my mind. The Haltech actually uses SO many less wires than the stock ECU/AEM did that I can't understand how the car will even run. I'm gonna hope for the best. I think the harness will be done Monday and I can bolt everything back in the car. Well...........that's not true, now that we've stripped so many additional wires from the engine harness I will have to track those down back into the body harness and pull those again. I guess the dash is coming back out again.
The OEM harness runs all the power (+12V/+5V) wires back to the MFI relay/ECU. If you "daisy chained" that stuff together, that will appear to drop about 8 wires. Same with the ground wires on several sensors to drop another 8 or so.
Not a good idea to do though, they should be split/rejoined at a common point to avoid ground loops and poor voltage balance.
Not a good idea to do though, they should be split/rejoined at a common point to avoid ground loops and poor voltage balance.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Feb 10, 2012 at 05:53 PM.
I've tried a lot of ECU's. The Haltech has been the most reliable, best running and most consistent that I've used. My only experience with the Motec was in the twin turbo Buick I drove in the early '90's that ran mid 7's in the 1/4. All we did was pull logs for Duttweiler to review. Car ran like a top, always. I can't see the expense of the Motec over the Haltech based on how well the Haltech performs.
Unless of course you look at the versatility of the i2 software and the fact that you can define your own axes with the MoTeC. You can't really compare the Haltech to the MoteC in terms of functions and features.
the price point is a valid argument.
Not to mention you could use the MoteC PDM! That would shave a ton of weight and simply all of your relays, fuse box, etc.
the price point is a valid argument.
Not to mention you could use the MoteC PDM! That would shave a ton of weight and simply all of your relays, fuse box, etc.
David, yeah, I figured that was part of it. It's not a good idea in theory, but the fact the Haltec (and probably other standalone harnesses) do it that way shows it's probably no big deal.
A MOTEC PDM would be awesome, not too many are willing to spend $4k for a fuse box though. Actually, best approach would probably be two of the PDM15 setups, one in the front, one in the back as it would reduce wire lengths considerably. ISIS Power Cell is similar in function and cost $1000. I think it still uses fuse though, just solid state switches for control purposes? The fuses might be back up though and it might do solid state current limiting as well?
Somebody needs to come out with a more affordable option that is still fully solid state but more orientated to the enthusiasts, much like the MOTEC PDM without the motorsports connectors but without the MOTEC price tag.
Also, MOTEC has been releasing more "entry level" stuff lately that still have some nice features. I think the M84 is like $2400. Looks like they dropped the price of the plug and play EVO ecu as well.
A MOTEC PDM would be awesome, not too many are willing to spend $4k for a fuse box though. Actually, best approach would probably be two of the PDM15 setups, one in the front, one in the back as it would reduce wire lengths considerably. ISIS Power Cell is similar in function and cost $1000. I think it still uses fuse though, just solid state switches for control purposes? The fuses might be back up though and it might do solid state current limiting as well?
Somebody needs to come out with a more affordable option that is still fully solid state but more orientated to the enthusiasts, much like the MOTEC PDM without the motorsports connectors but without the MOTEC price tag.
Also, MOTEC has been releasing more "entry level" stuff lately that still have some nice features. I think the M84 is like $2400. Looks like they dropped the price of the plug and play EVO ecu as well.
I'll graduate from my Vipec to the MoTeC by the end of the year
