So I have on order a Elemental Designs 10" sub (110.v2) with a 0.5 CF sealed, carpeted enclosure for the trunk, a set of 6.5" DLS MS6A components for the front doors and A-pillars, and a pair of eD NINe.2 two-channel amps.

The sub and one amp have already arrived and everything else should arrive soon, except for the box. My order included a ton of sound deadening liquid and foam, along with a wiring kit that has 4-gauge cables (ground and power), 8-gauge cables, a fuse block and two power distribution blocks.

I have an Alpine iPod-connected head unit connected to the stock SSL amp under my seat, with a Metra cable. The Alpine has RCA L+R preamp outputs for front speakers, rear speakers and sub(s).

Here's my basic plan, which has evolved over the last week. I'd be interested in any criticisms or thoughts:

I will leave the stock amp under my seat and leave it connected by the Metra harness to the head unit's rear speaker channels, using the stock parcel shelf rear full-range speakers as fadable sound fillers, adjustable as needed.

I will bolt the sub and both new amps in the trunk on a plywood (1/4" or 3/8") board, painted dark gray and cut to fit the front of the trunk floor. I'll bolt the board to the trunk floor using the captive nuts there, left over from the SSL sub.

One NINe.2 amp, bridged and set for an 80-Hz (I guess) low-pass, will feed the sub at 4 ohms. The other amp set for 80-Hz high-pass, will take the two front channels from the Alpine and send the signal through 16-gauge wires to the front doors.

The 4-gauge cable will connect the battery to one distribution block in the trunk, which will send 8-gauge power lines out to the amps.

Each amp will be grounded with 4-gauge (or is 8-gauge OK?) cable to an paint-free common point--hopefully I can find another captive nut somewhere--in the trunk.

Sound damping will go in the trunk and front doors as best I can apply it.

Does this all sound prudent? Is there a better material than plywood for mounting the subs and amp?

Thanks, as always!

 

Sounds like a perfect plan. You can use 8ga wire to ground the amps. You always want your ground wire to match the size of the power wire going into the amp. Best way to ground them would be 8ga from the amps, to a power distribution block and (1) 4ga wire out to your grounding point. But, straight 8ga from each amp will work just as well.

 

12 guage to the speakers FTW!!!

Sounds ok for a setup, but I would suggest MDF board for the subs to make an enclosure. It's just kinda hard to picture everything being described. I'm more of a picture person

 

He already has a box on order that is custom made for that particular sub.

 

Rod, one thing you'll want to remember to do is set the high-pass crossover from your head unit for the rear channels. Will keep your stock rear speakers from getting blown. It's a small detail, but sometimes folks overlook it.

 

don't forget to get wood to make mdf baffles for those woofers if they are deep.

 

^^^

 

I think he's referring to the mid-basses for the front doors.

 

indeed

 

MDF for the front doors is a great suggestion. And, I would recommend he use them regardless of depth. The speakers he purchased will have plenty of midbass and the cheap plastic speaker adaptors you can buy for $10 won't do those speakers justice. 1/2" MDF will work perfectly. Rod, you can learn how to build them here. Post #6.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=273714

 

Thanks. Lots of good advice here. I already bought the cheap plastic adaptors, but I can still use them as templates for MDF. Great idea, Adam.

I just reviewed my head unit instructions on setting the highpass on my rear speakers, but there is no such setting. My basic options are "SUBW:ON / OFF" ("ON" will drive the RCA outputs for the sub), and "SUB SYS 1 / 2" (whether, or maybe how much, the main volume control affects the sub outputs). Then I can just fade to the front speakers.

I'll set it up with the sound is biased to the front, and I doubt the SSL amp will overdrive the rear speakers so long as I don't crank them up too much. The good thing about this approach is it leaves the factory amp and wiring in place for future owners, and the factory amp and power supply should have ample headroom for the rear speakers, since it will no longer be driving the factory sub or front speakers.

 

Which head unit did you purchase?

 

I have an Alpine CDA-9856 controlling a 130-gig iPod, with a Metra wiring harness connecting it to the SSL amp. Nothing too exciting.

I've had it since December 2006. It has three sets of L+R preamp RCA outputs, for fronts, rears and sub.

I think if I set SUBW to ON, it will put a high-pass filter on the front and rear preamp outputs, and a low-pass filter on the sub outputs.