LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

OK, I see a lot of this and it's a very simple process.

Our cars can be a little loud (especially on the highway) and come equipped with a crappy stereo. If you opted for the SSL, you still got a crappy stereo. Sorry, not trying to step on your toes, but it blows.


Basic Car Audio upgrade path:
1. ALARM
2. New Headunit
3. New front components
3a. amp to power components
4. New rear coaxials
4a. Did you get a decent 4 channel to power all 4 speakers?
5. Sub, box, and mono amp.
6. Dynomat, Damplifier, Raamat, Fatmat, etc. (This can be done anytime you feel the need)


So which is best?

Since you can't answer that for me, how do I pick out some speakers?

Is that it?

EDIT: I will be trying to update this a bit more when I have some more time. If you have a question that is not answered, post up, there are many good stereo guys on here. I'm sure we will all be glad to help and will find a way to get your question answered.

If you find something that you feel is wrong. PM me. We will discuss it and make sure that the right info gets posted on the first post. This way, we can keep out the clutter and help some people out.

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

4 speaker setup is standard. It's 6 if you count the tweets.

Stereo depth - 7.5"
Front - 6.75" with tweeter
Rear - 6.75"

The speakers are actually 6.5's, but you need a 6.75" adapter.


There was also a SSL package that added a powered sub.

Sub - 8"
Mounting Depth - 4.25"

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

Get cheap adapter plates Here at MJM Auto Innovations

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

Adapters needed for HU hook-up to SSL:



Thread Here

st3alth5

I motion to have this topic pinned/stuck in the Evo Audio & Security forum, since it is a good starting reference.

atombomb33

iTrader: (28)

This thread definitely needs to become a sticky.

For those using high-end speakers and don't want to use the cheap adapter plates, you can easily build baffles yourself.

Tools you'll need:
sharpie marker
jigsaw
drill
cutout template from your speakers
1/4" or 1/2" thick MDF (I recommend 1/2" for high-end speakers...you can buy it in 2'x4' sheets at Home Depot or Lowes)

Steps:
1) remove the stock speaker
2) put the stock speaker facing down on the MDF board (speaker cone facing the wood)
3) use the sharpie to draw an outline around the speaker...don't forget to mark the screw holes too
4) take the cutout template that came with your speakers and center it inside the outline you just drew...draw the speaker mounting hole and the screw holes
5) use the drill with a 1/2" bit to drill a starting hole inside the speaker mounting hole
6) insert the jigsaw into the starting hole you just drilled and then begin cutting out the speaker mounting hole
7) pre-drill the screw holes to mount the baffle to the car and to mount the speaker to the baffle...use a 1/8" bit
8) use the jigsaw to cut around the speaker outline you drew
9) now you have the mounting baffle ready...be sure to test fit it to make sure it will work and the screw holes line up
10) Mount the speaker in the baffle using silicone or a rubber gasket (to make an airtight seal) and 3/4" or 1/2" screws (make sure the screws DO NOT poke through the back of the baffle)
11) Make sure to connect the speaker wire before going to step 12!!!!
12) Mount the baffle (with speaker installed) to the stock speaker location using 1.5" screws that are the same width as the stock screws (the gold screws you removed when taking out the speaker)...you can put some silicone or a rubber gasket behind the baffle between the metal to provide a tight seal and eliminate rattling
13) repeat for the remaining 3 speakers
14) enjoy great sound

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

Thanks, this is very basic for those who have no idea where to start. I hope we can consolidate a lot of the info in the audio section into this thread.

PedroMartinez

iTrader: (17)

so if i buy 6 3/4" speakers do i need adapter plates? i kinda got lost here. or i can just go plug and play guys.....

atombomb33

iTrader: (28)

^not guaranteed that all 6.75" will be a direct fit. The mounting hole for both front and rear in the EVO is 6". So, make sure the mounting hole for the speakers you want are exactly (or just slightly below) 6". The speakers I installed mounted in a 5.5" hole, so I had to build baffles to mount the speakers.

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

Pedro, they should mount right up.

PedroMartinez

iTrader: (17)

alright i was just getting confused. sorry but thanks for the help. im off i guess to find the right ones.

DontRevMe

iTrader: (2)

i feel that the amplification should be either before or after the stereo. Not after speakers. Many people wouldnt believe the sound you can get from factory mids with a quality amplifier driving them.

If i wanted a budget upgrade to the factory setup, i would go
4-6ch + sub of choice.

STOP THERE..listen to it, see if thats enough for you. For most, it probably is. Upgrade your stereo if you want more options as far as aux input, more control over the amplifier, blue tooth, etc..

I see far too many people buying speakers before amplifiers, and its a waste of money if your factory speakers are working fine.

LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

Thats why I put it as 3a.

It's where you get into a little of the grey area and have to decide which fits your budget, time contraints, upgrade options, or listening preferences.

WhiteEvo05

iTrader: (12)

Does anyone know the mounting depth of the front mid-bass speakers in the bottom forward corner of the doors?

Mongo

iTrader: (7)

3-4"