EVO Audio Info
Layin Lo and I have been trying to do that for awhile. We appreciate it.
I don't know if this applies to Evos or not, but on Infinity systems in other vehicles you can feed the speaker outputs from an aftermarket headunit into the stock amplifier eliminating the need for all the adapters (other than the normal adapter for wiring up a head unit). IIRC some, if not all, stock "Infinity" head units actually use speaker level outputs to drive the factory Infinity amps. My car didn't come with SSL so I can't verify this on an Evo. I can verify it worked in my Grand Cherokee and I had absolutely no problems. It's probably not the "best"way, but will save you some money from buying adapters if you plan on upgrading amps in the future anyways.
in an ssl equipped car, the sub is powered, but does all cabin speaker power come from the head unit ?
So if I replace my head unit the I dont need to fool with input wattage to some hidden amps ?
also kind of off topic but 20 years ago when I was a kid Kenwood used to make decent stuff. I notice they are priced in the 100-200 range at cructhfield these days.... do they suck now ? Thats like a walmart price ?
I paid $450 in 1985 for just a Kenwood metal tapedeck. I can nearly get a dvd player from them for that now ?
So if I replace my head unit the I dont need to fool with input wattage to some hidden amps ?
also kind of off topic but 20 years ago when I was a kid Kenwood used to make decent stuff. I notice they are priced in the 100-200 range at cructhfield these days.... do they suck now ? Thats like a walmart price ?
I paid $450 in 1985 for just a Kenwood metal tapedeck. I can nearly get a dvd player from them for that now ?
Well I took a chance:
I ordered the MITAH from discountstero AKA we dont answer email questions ever.
it was 25 bucks shipped or so and now according to the ad includes the power adapter as part of the harness.
I will let you know how it works with my 06 ssl....
I ordered the MITAH from discountstero AKA we dont answer email questions ever.
it was 25 bucks shipped or so and now according to the ad includes the power adapter as part of the harness.
I will let you know how it works with my 06 ssl....
Another fun thing is their return policy is pretty much: 'your stuck with it'
So its a gamble in my eyes.....
Is this DIN plug I keep seeing only on the amp or is it also on the back of the stock headunit?
Last edited by biggie5252; Mar 19, 2008 at 10:06 PM.
OK The new mitah ssl from discount stereo is a one stop shop. I was impatient and couldnt wait for the shop so I did it myself.
The only tricky parts here is:
1) you will have an extra orange wire on the white mitah adapter
2) you will need to take one of the blue wires from the stereo and connect it to the blue wire on the din plug (black plug). Connecting it to the blue wire on the blue white mitah plug doesnt do much.
3) The brackets on the sides of the factory can be removed and used on your new unit which makes mounting a snap.
OK heres how you do it:
1) get the MITAH
2) get a packet of red but connectors (about 10)
3) you will need a screwdirver and a wiring crimp tool
4) go take over the kitchen table and basically color match. My Kenwood at 3 sets of rca preouts (2 preouts (4 rcas) for cabin speakers and 1 for sub) I recommend this unless you like splicing and using the HU's leads (yuck)
5) plug rcas in.
6) use the orange/white to orange/white (both should say dimmer)
7) tie off the unneed connections (including the blue wire on the white mitahc connector)
now you have an abomination on you table get ready to put it in the car
8) pull the 3 a/c heat vent knobs off
9) removed the 2 screws at the 6 o'clock that are now visible
***** Not needed **** 10) in the pocket there are 2 more screws the screw straight up, take them out
11) gently but firmly start to pull bezel plate from the bottom (takes an even amount to get it off, work from bottom to top tugging on it.
12) 4 bolts hold the factory in take it out
13) transfer brackets
14) plug in quick connect
14b) groung the hu's ground on metal
15) test output on speakers to make sure b4 buttoning up
ding
The only tricky parts here is:
1) you will have an extra orange wire on the white mitah adapter
2) you will need to take one of the blue wires from the stereo and connect it to the blue wire on the din plug (black plug). Connecting it to the blue wire on the blue white mitah plug doesnt do much.
3) The brackets on the sides of the factory can be removed and used on your new unit which makes mounting a snap.
OK heres how you do it:
1) get the MITAH
2) get a packet of red but connectors (about 10)
3) you will need a screwdirver and a wiring crimp tool
4) go take over the kitchen table and basically color match. My Kenwood at 3 sets of rca preouts (2 preouts (4 rcas) for cabin speakers and 1 for sub) I recommend this unless you like splicing and using the HU's leads (yuck)
5) plug rcas in.
6) use the orange/white to orange/white (both should say dimmer)
7) tie off the unneed connections (including the blue wire on the white mitahc connector)
now you have an abomination on you table get ready to put it in the car
8) pull the 3 a/c heat vent knobs off
9) removed the 2 screws at the 6 o'clock that are now visible
***** Not needed **** 10) in the pocket there are 2 more screws the screw straight up, take them out
11) gently but firmly start to pull bezel plate from the bottom (takes an even amount to get it off, work from bottom to top tugging on it.
12) 4 bolts hold the factory in take it out
13) transfer brackets
14) plug in quick connect
14b) groung the hu's ground on metal
15) test output on speakers to make sure b4 buttoning up
ding
Last edited by thatmr2guy; Mar 26, 2008 at 04:44 AM.