DIY: Viper 5701 Install on CT9A
Well, when i try to activate my remote start:
press brake>pull Ebrake>release brake> Remote start button
It beeps at me, and won't stay running like it's suppose to. then when i try and find out why later, it just flashes 7 times saying remote start is enabled, but not initialized... wtf?
I have the blue RS status wire connected to the blue GWR wire on the keybypasskit
press brake>pull Ebrake>release brake> Remote start button
It beeps at me, and won't stay running like it's suppose to. then when i try and find out why later, it just flashes 7 times saying remote start is enabled, but not initialized... wtf?
I have the blue RS status wire connected to the blue GWR wire on the keybypasskit
Last edited by Jaded-7; Sep 28, 2011 at 06:25 AM.
After seeing this I may just get one. Especially with all the Evo thefts in the area. The only thing I hate about aftermarket alarms is when there is a thunder storm or a loud noise the alarm goes off
. Is there a way to disable this sensor with the remote?
. Is there a way to disable this sensor with the remote?
Look at the pictures above. "door kick panel" simply means in that general area. you can also see my post #130 for more details on what wires are where. the door lock/unlock are behind all the connectors and actually head into the door.
on another note regarding my previous post, after researching i have a feeling that my front parking light bulbs are just blown, and thats why they don't flash. I'll be testing this today. But the wire listed is the correct one to tap into.
Edit again, I'm messing around with getting my remote start working with the bypass key thing. If you are doing the same and have any questions, i'll try and help you out... as long as i get mine working! lol.
on another note regarding my previous post, after researching i have a feeling that my front parking light bulbs are just blown, and thats why they don't flash. I'll be testing this today. But the wire listed is the correct one to tap into.
Edit again, I'm messing around with getting my remote start working with the bypass key thing. If you are doing the same and have any questions, i'll try and help you out... as long as i get mine working! lol.
Luckily my siren isn't hooked up yet (to save my and my neighbors ears), but did you have any trouble using your remote to unlock/lock doors? are you using the 5901?
also- for the clutch relay- which of the two wires is it? theres a white wire, and a dark orange/red wire. I tried testing both but no luck, its really hard to get in there
try resetting the alarm and programming the remotes again... i couldn't figure out why mine wasn't working and realized i had to program them... oops.
From what i have researched on the board, from another thread, the white wire is what you are supposed to cut. it's much easier if you disconnect it from the clutch switch, and then again from the main harness. above the switch is another white plug, this can be disconnected from the lower wires, but first you have to slide it back off its grommet (back being pushed toward the fuse box) then you can turn it around, unplug it, take it out and splice the wire, and reinsert.
Is your remote start working as its supposed to? still can't get mine, and don't know why its beeping at me.
From what i have researched on the board, from another thread, the white wire is what you are supposed to cut. it's much easier if you disconnect it from the clutch switch, and then again from the main harness. above the switch is another white plug, this can be disconnected from the lower wires, but first you have to slide it back off its grommet (back being pushed toward the fuse box) then you can turn it around, unplug it, take it out and splice the wire, and reinsert.
Is your remote start working as its supposed to? still can't get mine, and don't know why its beeping at me.
im reinstalling everything. I wasn't pleased with the way my wires were ran the first time. I'll let you know what happens here in a couple hours.
quick question though- what jumper setting do you have for the d2d thing on the back? mine are horizontal, I'm thinking of turning it vertical.
also- where is your fuse INSIDE the brain located? i switched mine to the left (left when you're reading the words and schematic etched in below it)
the user manual sucks
quick question though- what jumper setting do you have for the d2d thing on the back? mine are horizontal, I'm thinking of turning it vertical.
also- where is your fuse INSIDE the brain located? i switched mine to the left (left when you're reading the words and schematic etched in below it)
the user manual sucks
i'll try and look, but i set everything up, just according to this thread... if you read the first couple pages it tells what to do with the fuse and jumper.
Also, what was never explicitly said, is you HAVE to do a tach learn.
Simple, just turn on car, within 5 sec press and hold the progam button (valet key thing) for 3 sec, once the led turns on constant release the button and done. now my remote start works, well, will once i hook up the spdt relay correctly.
Also, what was never explicitly said, is you HAVE to do a tach learn.
Simple, just turn on car, within 5 sec press and hold the progam button (valet key thing) for 3 sec, once the led turns on constant release the button and done. now my remote start works, well, will once i hook up the spdt relay correctly.
Yay! got it.
SPDT Relay: Cut white wire from clutch switch. Wire attached to actual switch goes to 87a. Wire coming from vehicle harness goes to 30. Violet wire from Remote Starter output goes to 86. CONSTANT Power wire from vehicle harness (you choose where, but it MUST be constant) goes to 85.
For a KEYBYPASSKIT I connected the blue wire from the bypass box to the Blue wire from the Remote Start Output. The other two wires simply go to ground and 12V constant. (red and black) GWR simply means "ground when running" and any of the Remote Starter output wires will accomplish this task, but the blue wire is really the correct one.
Also like i said in post #142, in order for the Remote Start to work, you MUST COMPLETE a tach learn. very, very, simple to do, but RS won't work without doing it. Hope this helps someone else out.
Harrison
SPDT Relay: Cut white wire from clutch switch. Wire attached to actual switch goes to 87a. Wire coming from vehicle harness goes to 30. Violet wire from Remote Starter output goes to 86. CONSTANT Power wire from vehicle harness (you choose where, but it MUST be constant) goes to 85.
For a KEYBYPASSKIT I connected the blue wire from the bypass box to the Blue wire from the Remote Start Output. The other two wires simply go to ground and 12V constant. (red and black) GWR simply means "ground when running" and any of the Remote Starter output wires will accomplish this task, but the blue wire is really the correct one.
Also like i said in post #142, in order for the Remote Start to work, you MUST COMPLETE a tach learn. very, very, simple to do, but RS won't work without doing it. Hope this helps someone else out.
Harrison
I got everything working as well. Although, my E brake switch doesn't work, and I just realized it has never worked. I had to ground the neutral safety switch permanently to get the ability to remote start... but now, if I have my dome light connected to the brain, it will not shut off. Oh well
is there a fuse that controls the parking brake? pretty sure all of mine are good
is there a fuse that controls the parking brake? pretty sure all of mine are good
I found it was my clutch relay, it was drawing a constant current. the entire plug is now yanked, it may stay that way until I can find out what went wrong... followed the instructions here... may just be a bad relay, it HAS been sitting in my pile of junk for about two years
you can check if the relay is bad. 85 should be constant 12 volts, but 86 should be an a wire from RS output. I believe we have been saying to use the violet, but any of them should work. The output from the RS will only become a ground when running (becomes a ground as soon as you hit the RS button). so if you have a full circuit when the car is off you've got a normal (full time) ground, which you do not want.






