ok so i got my car back the other day and when i got it back the radio doesnt turn on, the clock doesnt work, the locks wont work unless the key is turned, the keyless entry doesnt work at all, and my volt gauge reads zero. i searched and found some people with similar problems and they had to replace the fuses in the yellew sleeve i checked but those are fine. i replaced anyways and still doesnt work. i checked i think every fuse but they are all fine. any ideas??

 

..

 

Take it to Solid Auto works in SLC have them look at it.

 

just got your car back from where? definitly check all fuses. you may have overlooked something. the one i had to change was in the engine bay

 

It should still be under warranty. Take it to the dealer if you don't have any obvious mods.

 

ok ill check all the fuses a second time. If not ill try that place. They any good? I cant take it to the dealer i have mods. If its not a fuse any other ideas on what it could be?

 

PM Solid auto works. There on EvoM

 

Sounds like you already did a search, but in case you didn't read this thread, please do so https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=379478. The symptoms you have listed are consistent with an open circuit in the yellow IOD connector or the fuses inside of it. You may have replaced the fuses in the IOD, but make sure that the connector is pushed in all the way down, otherwise the circuits will not be complete. Chances are unlikely that there is anything wrong downstream of these fuses.

 

ya i tried that. i took the yellew thing out and then pushed i back in tight and nothing happened. so i popped out the fuses and the didnt look bad. i replaced them anyways and put it back in. still nothing. what i have is exactly like the ones i have read about except my fuses where fine and i dont know what to do from here. its gettin frustrating. Do you think disconnecting the battery and then taking the fuses out and waiting for a minute and puting them back in might work? tommorrow i am gonna play with that dam thing one more time!

 

Disconnecting the battery won't do anything in this situation. I've come across the IOD problem a few times, and only once found something other than a fuse or connector not pushed in. The vehicle was hit and repaired in the L/F fender, but some of the wiring was damaged, but not noticed and the body shop re-wrapped the harness without repairing the wires. The wiring in question powered the clock and radio, and I can't remember the symptoms, but in the end, I found the wiring to be stretched, giving high resistance to the circuit. I don't know the history of your car, but the only thing you can do is to test the circuit from, say your radio, back to this underhood fuse. Before you do, you should test the IOD to see if it is working. If you have a test light, first check to see if there is battery voltage at both sides of each of the fuses. If that's good, unbolt the underhood fuse box and check underneath, the wires that go from the IOD fuses and make sure that there's power leaving the fuse box. If this is unclear to you, PM me for help.

 

ok so i found out that one of those fuses isnt getting any power. but if i turn the key it gets power. I dont know where to go from there though?

 

..

 

Fuse 22 (dome lamp fuse) should have power all the time. Fuse 23 (radio fuse) should have power with the ignition on. Just to clarify, are you getting power to both sides of both fuses with the ignition on (checked with a test light)? Also, do your dome lights work? I know that you have listed the items that aren't working, but can you please check to see if there are any other items that don't work ie: lighter, fog light, heater, etc..... ..... ..... Like I mentioned, the symptoms indicate an IOD problem, so we'll stick with testing the 2 IOD circuits for now. If you are certain that you have power to both sides of both fuses, then double check by checking for power leaving the IOD. Unbolt the underhood fuse box and access the wiring underneath the fuses. With the ignition switch on, check for power at the red/black wire leaving Fuse 22 and the blue/yellow wire leaving Fuse 23. Both wires should have battery voltage with the ignition on. If so, the problem is downstream between this point and your affected components. The wiring from here on will include splices, joint connectors, etc. Wiring doesn't usually just quit working by itself, so look for damage, corrosion, etc. There's a connector C129 under the dash at the left kick panel. It's a 25 pin connector. Take a look there to see if you find anything suspicious. It may not be connected properly, or may have corrosion at the terminals. Pull the connector apart and take a close look. Let me know what you find. Diagnosing without seeing the car is a little tough at best.

 

i know why cant you just come look at it! ha ha. I actually took it to my mechanic and they looked at it for four hours and couldnt figure it out. They said they think the battery got hooked up wrong. I called the body shop that it was at they said the didnt touch it. But i think they are full of ****! If that is what happened do you think it fried a computer or something? I was going to take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it but i know its gonna cost me a arm and a leg. Its just weird that everything worked fine and when i got it back it was like that! This **** sucks? thanks for all the help so far though!

 

First off, if you pick up your car and those items aren't working you do not leave with the car. You make them fix it. Plain and simple. Now that you left with it and you and another shop have messed with it, you're probably out of luck. However I wouldn't give up. Shops have insruance for things like this. Get on the phone with a manager, even threaten to call the news, paper, better business bureau, etc... if you have to. I work in a body shop and if it worked when it came in it has to work when it leaves or prior to the accident.