Hey all,

I have a few questions. I just ordered an all new sound system. Avic f90bt dual din w/ navi, Kicker component speakers for the front and coaxial for the rear deck. a kicker 10 in" subwoofer and 2 amps, an 840 watt four-channel for my door speakers, and a 2000 watt mono for my subwoofer. Oh and here is where I need help:

I have an aquamist hsf-5 methanol injection kit set-up in my car and previously had 1 smaller 10 in" sub.

I was running the amp wire from the battery to a distribution block which split the signal to the Aquamist kit and to the MONO amp.

Now I am adding 1 more amp and want to know the best way to go about hooking this all up.


Can I just run a seperate AMP kit to the new amp from the battery?? or should I get a new distribution block that has three outputs? and do they even make that??

On another topic I don't know how many RCA Cables to run, I have a pair of them that were running to the mono amp I had installed previously in my car, Do I need to run a 4-channel set of RCA's to the four-channel amp and leave the 2 channel RCA's for the subwoofer? What do I need to do, and how many RCA Cables are needed??

My 4 channel amp has a spot for 4 RCA inputs and has an output for 2 RCA's, Can I run the four channel RCA Cables from the head unit to the four channel amp and then run the 2 channel RCA's from the four channel amp to my mono amp?


As you all can prolly tell by now I am a newb to all this and this is the first time I have ever tried to install any car audio stuff.



Oh and my last question is: Do I need anything special to fit my kicker speakers, they are 6.5 in oversized and I know the EVO 9 has spots for 6.75 WILL MY KICKERS JUST FIT RIGHT In?????



Thanks any info is greatly appreciated!!


Jeff

 

wow.... 210w/ channel for your full range speakers.

upgrade wiring and run a distro block in the trunk. 0/1 or better power cable. Audison makes some really good stuff, but it's $12/foot.

And definitely run a seperate RCA for each channel. Assuming your HU has 3 sets of RCAs, Front, Rear, and Non-fader (SUB), you'll need 1 4 channel RCA cable, and a standard RCA cable that you already have. Also keep all power (Bat+ and Remote turn on) lines away from RCAs.

 

you can do many things... you can upgrade the wire to the battery to allow for the higher current draw, and a new distribution block.. which would look cleaner obviously. or if you dont car you can run a whole new power wire to the one extra amp.. there will be no difference just one looks better then the other. keep in mind you must have the same size ground as you do wire entering the amps. also grounded to the same spot on the chassis, not stcked apon each other as one spot con only handle so much current.
now witht the rcas you need 2 pair for the 4 ch and one pair for the mono. basically you have one pair for the fronts, one pair for the rears, and one pair for the sub.. you can daisy chain amps taking one rca come from the out put on one and entering the input of the mono.. but you will loose all sub controll, assuming your new deck has sub controll, it should tho. so in terms of the rca outputs on the back of the deck, there should be a front, rear, sub.. use them accordingly and i hope i have covered everything.. if not sorry ive been an installer for about 5 years so feel free to ask if i did miss something

 

oh and about the speakers fitting..... just go for it..haha if they fit awesome.. if not go from there, maybe an air saw will be your new friend maybe not. ..... i know that not much help but the main part of installing is seeing the problem and working trough it, and since i cant see the speakers.. you have to work through it..haha

 

The seakers aren't just going to fit in the front doors. The easiest way is to get 1/4" mdf, plexiglass, etc and trace out the stock speaker, then cut the hole for your new speaker inside that, then cut out the piece. You also might be able to buy a set of adapters from a local shop or crutchfield.

 

You guys are great help, I am beginning to understand how all of this works I think. As far as running just one power wire to a Distro Block, Will a 20 Ft. 0/1 AWG Power Wire work to split 3 ways with 4 gauge wiring?? and how big of wire should I run to each AMP??


Thanks again,


Jeff

 

Make sure your amps will take a 4gauge cable. Other than that it sounds good.

 

Another question, I had a different SINGLE DINN head unit installed it was a kenwood. On its harness it had this wire which has a label "P. Cont" which links to a thin yellow wire and runs all the way to the back of my car I think maybe to the rear speakers. What is this P. CONT cable and what do I need to connect it to on my new DOUBLE DINN Head unit???


Another topic, for mhy Head unit itself it requires me to tap into my E-Brake Cable, Where can I find this and tap into it???



Any info is greatly appreciated....THANKS GUYS!!!

Jeff

 

I have the avic 90bt, and you can just run a bypass, by moving the mute wire, and running it and the ebrake wire to the ground...you can find it on avic411.com

 

I saw how to do the Bypass, but I am afraid I will mess something up when I try to do it. I will eventually do it or take it to the local audio shop and have them do it. But if I run the bypass then I dont need to hook the cable to the parking brake???


Thanks

 

right, just follow the instructions, seriously i am no pro and I did it just fine, I was surprised when it actually worked! Let me know if you'd like some more help with it

 

what about this P. CONT wire, off of the old harness it wasblue and connected to a yellow wire which went all the way back to the rear of the car??

Thanks,

 

the P CONT wire should be the remote turn on lead from the deck. it is a 12v out when the deck turns on..... ie used to turn the amps on. so the yellow wire is most likley going to an amp, or was.