Newb ?'s on amp install/ 6.5" subs
Newb ?'s on amp install/ 6.5" subs
Has any one run full range 2way 6.5 in the front doors with an AB or FD class 2channel and 2, 6.5 subs in the rear deck on a D class?
The head unit has built in cross overs and a sub channel and I have foam "basket" style isolators to seal up the backs (shallow in doors deep in rear deck) . I am considering these subs:
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...oofer--264-832
38HZ is low enough... I don't need thunder, just a bit of kick. I have previously had a powered sub in the trunk, but the car makes so much dam low frequency noise on its own it was muddy with a 12" relatively low powered sub so I thought I would try this to save some weight and free up my trunk?
Anyone knowledgable on this sort of thing care to comment? I would appreciate any advice/ insight!
The head unit has built in cross overs and a sub channel and I have foam "basket" style isolators to seal up the backs (shallow in doors deep in rear deck) . I am considering these subs:
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...oofer--264-832
38HZ is low enough... I don't need thunder, just a bit of kick. I have previously had a powered sub in the trunk, but the car makes so much dam low frequency noise on its own it was muddy with a 12" relatively low powered sub so I thought I would try this to save some weight and free up my trunk?
Anyone knowledgable on this sort of thing care to comment? I would appreciate any advice/ insight!
Last edited by wingless; Aug 8, 2014 at 05:00 PM.
I've tried the same drivers in the application you described. Don't waste your time, if sound quality is the goal. FWIW, an underseat sub works much better. Search for my system thread. It explains the (sonic and configuration) constraints we face with our cars. Good luck.
Edit: I realize this is an older thread. Figured it might help someone, anyway.
Edit: I realize this is an older thread. Figured it might help someone, anyway.
Last edited by FJF; Oct 20, 2014 at 04:03 PM. Reason: typo
Dont expect a 6" driver to play down to 38hz with any authority. If theres a frequency response graph out there for this driver I bet you its down SEVERAL decibels at 38hz compared to say 80hz. 38hz is in the sub-bass range, I'd place midbass kick higher than that - up at around 100hz.
If your previous 12" was 'muddy' then thats an issue with the tune. Obviously it was overpowering the front stage. All that was needed was an adjustment in your EQ with a cut at the appropriate frequencies. Being a low-powered (or high-powered) sub had nothing to do with it.. there was simply an imbalance with the tune.
Focus on sealing up the front doors with mdf/sound deadening/etc as that will make a night-and-day difference in regards to mid-bass kick. Subwoofers need an enclosure, as do mid-bass drivers
OP has probably solved all this by now but I wanted to contribute for the same reason as the posters above
If your previous 12" was 'muddy' then thats an issue with the tune. Obviously it was overpowering the front stage. All that was needed was an adjustment in your EQ with a cut at the appropriate frequencies. Being a low-powered (or high-powered) sub had nothing to do with it.. there was simply an imbalance with the tune.
Focus on sealing up the front doors with mdf/sound deadening/etc as that will make a night-and-day difference in regards to mid-bass kick. Subwoofers need an enclosure, as do mid-bass drivers

OP has probably solved all this by now but I wanted to contribute for the same reason as the posters above
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