New Transfer Case -- will it go too?
How should you treat a new TC after you've already upgraded your engine and clutch? Like so many others, I've replaced the stock clutch -- only to blow the TC case soon after. I don't race, or dump the clutch, in fact I use my evo as a daily driver, but I'm stuck with using an OEM part for now, and want to ensure that the new TC can hold up under the load of my exedy twin disc and ~300whp. Does anyone know how to properly modulate the twin disc in such a way as not to transfer too much stress to the TC -- and still drive the evo how it should be driven? I can't let any posers think the evo is weak. I MUST REPRESENT!
you pay to play if you want to represent -_- in the AWD world, all that stress gets locked up and gets sent directly to the transfer case/tranny and in our case, the transfer case is a weak point (relatively speaking). If you don't want to break it again, slip that clutch.
I see the logic in that, thanks! Question: when slipping the twin disc exedy, does it feel like there are two engagement points --- one light catch down low, and then full engagement up top? I'm wondering if I've got it modulated correctly. Ideas?
I would contact John Shepherd at http://www.shepracing.com if I were you. Ask him what your options are as far as the tc goes.
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It's good to know that, Smackdaddy. I recently had my mechanic install the "shortened" clutch slave cylinder push rod, and he said that it changes the engagement points, but it still feels like that initial "soft" engagement is still there. I've already got the braided steel clutch line, and the B&M short shifter has been there for a while, but I still have to retrieve the car from the shop today, so I'll mess with the clutch pedal adjustment and see if I can find a way to get those engagement points to feel better --- or at least modulate it so I can be sure the discs aren't in contact when they shouldn't be.
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