RnR: also, any option to get a different piston/rod combo? Say some Pauters and some JE's??

 

Here is some quick numbers I threw together this morning for cubic inch comparisons. All numbers are based on a stock bore block.

2.4 liter Mitsubishi is 142.62 cubic inches which is actually 2.337 liters.

2.0 liter Mitsubishi is 121.61 cubic inches which is actually 1.992 liters.

2.0 liter Mitsubishi with a 2.4 liter crank in it is 137.71 cubic inches which is actually 2.25 liters.

21.01 cubic inches more going from a 2.0 to a full 2.4 liter engine
16.1 cubic inches more going from a 2.0 to a stroker kit using the 2.4 liter crank.

More to come later on piston speed differences, for now I have to put an engine together.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

We can use whatever rod/piston combo you want. We just like the Eagle/Wiesco combo for both price and durability on a street car.

 

Ryan: Can you show a raw picture of your kit.

 

email me at rs92laser@yahoo.com for some pics.

 

everyone is voting for JUN, yet I fail to see anybody with the JUN. any specs or comments?

 

The JUN is overpriced and overrated. It is no better than an RNR, Buschur or RRS stroker.

 

Correct me if I am wrong - but the RNR 2.4 kit is not actually a stroker kit, as it is not actually increasing the displacement by changing the stroke of the piston.

It is using a 4g64 block which is a 2.4L with a 2.4L OEM crank & forged pistons and rods.

Wouldn't this be the best option for increasing displacement - Using the factory spec bore and stroke? Would this allow for increased piston speeds to rev higher than a 2.0 stroker kit?

Can someone else confirm this? Would this allow for the most reliability or is there something wrong with the 4g64 block? Is it not as reliability as the 4g63?

What are the differences between these two blocks? Different cooling and oiling passages?

 

i've heard that you cannot simply use the 4g64 crank with stock pistons and rods... there are differences in the piston angles and valve train... not sure about that, but thats what i hear..

bottom line... if you want to spend the best amount of money get the burchur, rnr, or ams's kit... no need to spend $4k on Jun and $3k on cheaply made Tomei stuff....

 

You are comparing a custom made kit with a factory off the shelf part. Have you ever seen any Tomei stroker kits or seen them being made ????

 

There are some kits missing above for people to vote on. RNR's and ours. I think they should be added to the list. We have put 2 of these engines out in cars now that we started and sold one other single kit.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

its like saying that honda civic is basically as good as evo

 

how high does the buscher kit rev safely on a regular basis?

 

That is my worry as well, I just do not know how high the piston speed would be with the 100mm crank. From what I understand, you do not want to be revving it much above 7200 rpm's or so. Now, with enough low end grunt and some upper end HP you may not want to go much above 7200 anyway, so this could be a non issue. Does anyone know where to find a piston speed calculator on the internet?

HOLY COW!! Ok, I have found the answers to my own questions....

Stroke (mm) 88 (stock) 100 (4G64 crank)
RPM 8200 7200
Piston Speed (ft/s) 78.9 78.7
Piston Speed (m/s) 24.1 24

As you can see, an 88mm stroke engine has the same piston speed at 8200 RPM as a 100mm stroke engine has at 7200!! I had no idea that the difference was so dramatic!

Next senario:

Stroke (mm) 88 (stock) 100 (4G64 crank)
RPM 8500 7500
Piston Speed (ft/s) 81.8 82
Piston Speed (m/s) 24.9 25

This is now starting to get up there in piston speed. Now, some say that a built 2.0 is good to 9000 or so which would be the same piston speed as a stroker at 7900, but I do not know if I want to take that chance or not.....

 

what would be the weak point in the BR stroker kit?