David's RS is UN BE***NLIEVABLE! Spool at 3 grand and a sledge hammer up your *** everytime you hit the throttle! They would take me away within the week if I ever tried to use it for my daily driver....

 

So, that's mean I don't really need ARP headstuds if I'm planning to make about this much or a little less power?

 

I don't think the ARP studs are needed as long as your tune stays safe. Nothing is going to save a head gasket if the car has too much detonation.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Screw this chatter about head studs. Tell us about the new turbo!

 

^ditto

 

I have been very impressed with Mr. Buschur's work.
I have a 05 MR , what is the prospect of
having a car modified to the extend of your RS, and be able
to have it pass annual inspection, and driving legally on
the street?
Say in the state of Texas.

Thanks

 

There are a few things that will cause you problems with my RS set up for inspection. One I am not using a cat right now on the car. The other is the AEM which if you get emission tested and they use the diagnostic port you would fail. In a state where they just use a s******/tail pipe test I believe with a cat in place my RS could pass the emission testing.

Daily driving is not a problem...it is a joy actually.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Mine does. It is an Evo III 16G. I have tried HKS 264/264s, 264/272 and 272/264s. The results were all about the same with regards to boost. The Evo III 16G held 26psi on a really cold day. I hit 118mph in the 1/4 with the turbo boosting to well over 30psi after each shift, and dropping to ~26psi as I revved the engine out to 7500 or so.

I have a DSMLink datalog of this, including boost, if you want to see it.

On a warmer day, I will typically hold 24 to 25psi to 7500RPMs.

If everyone with a DSM and a 16G weren't so quick to swap to 34mm wastegate valves, my results would probably be more common on other cars.

If I run lower boost, the car runs more slowly. If it didn't get slower when I turned down the boost, I would turn it down. But it does, so I keep the boost high!

 

It has already been discussed that differently modded engines with different volumetric efficencies will affect how much boost can be held and for how long. I am not certain that there is a need for each poster to list all of their engine mods however.

 

So is there a breakdown of all the parts used on the final car?

I want to maximize my car on the stock turbo, but having done all the basic mods I'm a little shortchanged as to where to head next.

 

The final parts that were on my RS were:

Buschur Racing complete Stage 4 kit with 680 cc injectors and 280 duration camshafts.

Ported, ceramic coated and clipped TME turbo with the MR 10.5 turbine housing.

Ported and ceramic coated manifold and 02 housing.

Ported intake manifold.

BR 65 mm throttle body.

HKS twin power ignition with Magnacore wires.

Exedy Clutch.

AEM EMS.

I believe that is it.

This combination gave me 393 whp and 390 ft lbs of torque on the dyno on 94 octane. Also ran a very traction limited 11.76 at 116 mph on 94 octane.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I don't recall the HKS ignition in the dyno thread. Do you have dyno results for the ignition upgrade vs. stock? I always assumed that an ignition upgrade was of minimal importance unless you are running high boost levels (i.e., race gas or alky) -- but I guess that's not the case.

About the ported intake manifold -- do you just open up the hole to the TB, or is the porting on the runners and/or plenum as well?

Thanks.

 

David what would you guess that to be at the crank? (don't ask)

 

I just assumed you were running the coil on plug ignition made by Switzer that you used to sell.

 

The EVO ignition is a weak link in the car for sure. Much weaker than the old DSM ignition. High boost will kill the EVO with the stock ignition. I put the ignition on when Al was here the 2nd time. I had already done the wires, didn't think the ignition would pick up, we put it on and at first glance it gained nothing. When running the curves uncorrected there was a gain. I hate messing with the correction factors but I saw a gain, knew the ignition was weak, it is extremely small, light and easy to install so I left it on. I know for a fact the car needs an upgrade as boost and HP climb.

The intake is ported at the throttle body to match our 65 mm throttle body. It is port match and tapered into the runners too.


My guess at HP at the flywheel is 452. I did the math on paper and figured about 15% loss, which is conservative. We know it is conservative as we have dyno'd quite a few engines on the engine dyno right across the street and then installed them in cars and dyno'd them at our place. (NON of these were 4g63's) Still gives us an idea of what type of losses you see. My brothers car made 496 flywheel HP and on our dyno only made 365 whp. (See Dynojet's really do read high

I am running the HKS Twin Power on my car (11.7 at 116), my brothers car (10.9 at 134) Al is running it on his car (10.18 @ 141) and it is on countless other high HP EVO's we have done. To be honest I cannot get Tym to build us coil on plugs, I am constantly waiting and I can't keep making empty promises to customers. We switch a few cars over we had the COP's on and they made the same power with just the Twin Power. The twin power take all of 5 minutes to install and costs half the money. I also almost always have them on the shelf. No power wires to run. It just plugs in with one small ground wire.

We are working on our own COP for the EVO now. We have the initial plate and coils done, ours will fit under the stock spark plug cover. We are also using a different CDI box as the "other" CDI box has failed 3 seperate times on the EVO now. I have no idea what the failures were, I just know 3 units have come back and had to be replaced.

I think our COP will sell between $500-$600. I don't have final pricing figured out yet.

The EVO definetely needs an ignition upgrade for higher HP and boost levels though.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com