Also, as you can see from the above dyno chart that without the alky on the AFR's were 11.8:1. With the alky the AFR's drop into the 10's, so alky injection does effect the AFR's exactly the way turncoat said they do.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Hey David,
Nice work on the new alky kit.
Just wondering, I've been reading about water/alky injection in general
and one problem that keeps popping up is clogged jets and how to
detect them. It sounds like the flash is safe enough that if you clogged
a jet your motor would still hold together but is there any way to tell
that it's happening? other than the car just instantly running like crap

also some kits use higher pressures for better atomizing and it possibly
helps from getting clogs in the first place. What is your opinion about
jet pressure and what is your kit using?

thanks for the info and keep up the great work!
still waiting to hear more about the 20g conversion

sean

 

thanks for the replies guys i agree what kind of warning function do you have built in for the detection and alert of a clog(the works aquamist system has this in their controll unit)?

if your tuned for the higher octane and you suddenly lose that level of octane(via clog ,leak,"system low"warning light malfunction)during a hard pull obviously theres no way the knock sensor can retard the timing fast enough before the "malfunction rendered" improper tune causes damage,what then?

alcahol is VERY corrosive what materials are used besides stock PLASTIC intercooler sprayer,such as seals, hoses, pumps,filters?

since this is being sold as a setup to be used with the stock engine managment format(ECU+flash) I feel its only fair to make myself and others aware of the possibly harmfull/damaging effects of this modification
sorry if this post is perceived as hating or negative questioning but you both wouldnt answer my posts above(number 26+36)and i wanted to ask around these direct questions,but was unable since you only replied to one person promoting your products

 

jonduke,

I missed your questions, been super busy just trying to get all the information from this weekend posted everywhere. I have said that the alky kit uses the factory intercooler sprayer bottle. So that will tell you where it is located. The pump is mounted on the lower side of the bottle where the little factory pump for the sprayer use to be. You cannot see in the bottle from the outside as it is black. There is a gauge mounted on the pump so the pressure the pump is putting out can be check from time-to-time. This is the best indicator of if the pump is getting weak or going bad.

The controller for alky kit is mounted inside the car, it has three lights on it. One that is lit indicating that the system is armed, this is on anytime the ignition is turned on. Then there is another that indicates when the system is actually spraying and the third warns you when the alky is getting low.

The feed hose from the pump is teflon lined, so alky will not effect it. The bottle of course is plastic. We recommend using denatured alky in the kit and the kits come with a quart bottle of lubricant. This lube mixed with denatured alky keeps the corrosion to a minimum. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND MIXING WATER WITH THESE KITS. The water/alky is very corrosive.

Also here is a quote from my post #43 that will explain more of the testing we did:

"As a side note, we ran the car with this same spike to 25 psi and settling to 21.5 psi WITHOUT the alky after we did the tuning just to see what happened and the great thing was, NOTHING happened. Al and I wanted to develop a flash that if something happened to the alky the engine would still live. The engine did live as the factory knock control took over and just retarded the hell out of the timing."

There isn't a dual map with a flash that can just be switched back and forth. We left enough in the timing and AFR's with this alky flash that the engine SHOULD still live if there was a failure in the alky kit.

As a side note, this is kit is not new. This has been out for many years and widely used on turbo Buicks. I have two turbo Buicks, my father has three. A failure with one of these kits is basically unheard of, I don't personally know of any. I am sure if you search you could find some. Excellent product with good safety features built in.

When you get it the best thing to do is push the test button and see what PSI the pump is putting out. Occasionally you should perform this test again and compare the PSI of the pump. The pumps will go out slowly when they do and cost about $80 to replace if and when they go out. The company is working on an all SS pump now so the alky will not effect them at all. Could be years before that pump is actually built though.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Not only do we use a high pressure pump we also use a jet size that is larger than most other kits. We also include an additive to mix in with the alky, this makes the corrosive properties of it much less.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I know you said there is no dual map setup in the flash but is it possible to tune for alky at higher boost then have a pump gas tune at lower boost?

 

Yes, this is possible. Well actually it is what the alky map is already. When we set up the alky it doesn't come on until over XX psi of boost. So anything under that the ignition and fuel maps are not touched. This gives you that pump gas map down low you are looking for. Over the XX psi of boost the alky comes on and that is where we did the tuning with the kits, advancing the timing and pulling just a little bit of fuel out.

So the answer to your question I guess would be, that is how it is done already.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Thank, that is what I was wanting to know.

 

Dave,
Have you had any experience with Propane Injection? The end result seems to be the same, able to add more timing and boost without the knock. A 5lb bottle lasts about a month, only cost $3-$4 to fill, comes on with the same style boost controlled solenoid.
Alot of Turbo Supras have had great success with it.
I know it adds Octane (Propane = 110octane), and helps with fuel atomization and helps with hot spots due to the better mixxing.
I can't see many bad points.
The Propane bottles (5lbs) are DOT certified. Deffinitely stronger than a car's gas tank. There are pressure gauges (automotive style) that would indicate when bottle gets low. There isn't any gas in the lines until the boost threshold is reached.
It's been used for years in Diesels (different affects on combustion).

 

I have heard that if you are running alcohol that it is slowly absorbed into the engine oil, which creates the need for more frequent oil changes and this can reduce the life of the engine?

I am just concerned about the corrosiveness of alcohol. Is there any logic to this?

 

Propane, only "experience" I have with it is in dielsel applications. Alky is more convenient, easy to carry a spare 1 gallon jug in the trunk. Can be bought at any hardware, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.

Running straight methanol is what you have heard about being absorbed into the oil and it is true. We aren't powering the cars on alky, we are simply spraying it into the intake stream. The pressure that it is sprayed at atomizes it and since the amount sprayed isn't extreme I would guess that 99% of it is burnt. With this type of alky kit there is no adverse effect on the oil as it doesn't reach the pan past the rings.

Corrosiveness has been covered already.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Al or Dave After dave gets 20g working what other mods will u need to use alky injection?
This sounds like an awsome alternative to race gas.

 

You need a reservoir to hold the alky, a nozzle to spray it, something to tell it when to come on and how much to spray, all of which is included in Buschur's kit.