Do you just drop them in and torque em?

or

Do you remove the head mill it so its straight and use a new headgasket?

I just want to know what everyone does? reliability and stuff.

 

you need to search,

stock head bolts are good enough unless u making over 400whp.(i think correct me if i m wrong) maybe 450whp???

arp is for drag racing car. right?

 

You should drop them in and torque them. hit the search button there something about installing them on here somewhere. Its adviced to put them on if you are upgrading your cams.

 

Do a search, someone wrote it up before.
1 at a time and you should be fine. ARP lube very important on threads and washers. There should have been instructions in the box about the torque specs etc. The nuts are not metric, they are SAE. Install studs so they are fully seated but do not tighten them to any extent.
What part of SJ are you in? I am in Mt. Laurel.
I think I am going to put my springs and retainers in tomorrow. Waiting on cams still so I may just take the timing belt assembly apart instead of shortcutting it.

 

timzcat.. just let u know that dynoflash is gonna do the job for me.
thanks anyway,

 

That's fine, I am still waiting on cams for my car.

 

Can someone explain what "cycle torquing" the bolts means? This is one part of the how-to writeup that I didn't understand, but I know that Turbo Trix said it was crucial. Thx.

 

With all my experience on installing parts I decided to stay away from these and have a professional Auto shop do them. I just don’t believe in 1 by 1 method but if the shop is willing to take responsibility I am willing to let them do it. This is a very scary job in my eyes. One wrong trq and you will wrap the head.

 

It's not the HP so much as the cyl pressure. ARP studs are recommended if you want to run
higher than normal (19-20psi) boost. The ARPs will not stretch like the stock bolts are rumored to.
So if you want to run >21psi boost pressure, you will want to invest in the ARP studs.

 

I heard the stock bolts are good for 350whp, could be mistaken though.

 

The stock head bolts are designed to stretch. Torque to yield. I have done the one by one method. I was just wondering if other people that have done this method noticed oil seepage.

 

Are you saying that you have oil seepage? What torque did you use on the head studs? I think most people who have seen seepage take that as a sign that they need to pull the head and replace the gasket the normal way.