My 10.5 Hotside Install & How-To
Originally Posted by porque
Has anyone ever done an up pipe install on a WRX and the 10.5 install? If so, how would you compare the relative difficulty between the two installs? Thanks
The up pipe is more of a pain in the *** and takes longer. If you have done an up pie, you can do the 10.5 hotside.
Excellent write up.
This afternoon I installed the Megan SS o2, 10.5^cm dual port hotside, FP WG actuator, and XSPower (ebay) FMIC. The difference in top-end pull is unbelievable! I'm running less boost now then with my previous stock componets and the car feels much STRONGER then before.
I didn't adjust the tune, just went for a quick drive to see if everything was OK. I have dozens of map sensor logs from when my car was stock. Tomorrow I'll hook up the data logging equipment and see how much of a difference all this stuff made.
This afternoon I installed the Megan SS o2, 10.5^cm dual port hotside, FP WG actuator, and XSPower (ebay) FMIC. The difference in top-end pull is unbelievable! I'm running less boost now then with my previous stock componets and the car feels much STRONGER then before.
I didn't adjust the tune, just went for a quick drive to see if everything was OK. I have dozens of map sensor logs from when my car was stock. Tomorrow I'll hook up the data logging equipment and see how much of a difference all this stuff made.
i need part number's for new studs and nuts and gasket for the exaust manifold to the head.
i also need part numbers for studs, nuts, bolts for the exaust manifold to hotside.
anyone help me out????????
i went to the dealer and he just f'ed it all up. so il come here where people know what there doing. then bring the number's to him.
i also need part numbers for studs, nuts, bolts for the exaust manifold to hotside.
anyone help me out????????
i went to the dealer and he just f'ed it all up. so il come here where people know what there doing. then bring the number's to him.
OK this might sound dumb but I'm gonna ask anyway. It is my understanding that when you use studs you need nuts and when you use bolts you dont need nuts. So I am planning to swap out the two studs and nuts from the mani to 10.5 with the same OEM bolts used in the other 2 holes (MN119783). I assume all I will need for this connection is the gasket and 4 of these bolts right? Only reason I ask is I couldve sworn I read people saying they switch to bolts AND nuts at this location and this makes no sense to me as to why, but until I get in there and look at how it is now I dont really know for sure. Can anyone confirm this for me who has done this?? Thanks!!!
Originally Posted by shadow1
the turbine housing is threaded. No nuts are needed for the bolts.
Originally Posted by TSi_2_EVO
all of the part numbers needed were posted in this thread, post number 198
just for others here you go
Exhaust manifold gasket: MR323654
Exhaust manifold washers: MD050076 x2, MD041192 x7
Exhaust manifold nuts: MR224500 x2, MR212302 x7
Turbine housing gasket: MR404547
Exhaust manifold-turbine housing bolt: MN119783 x2
Exhaust manifold-turbine housing washer: MD132933 x9*
Exhaust manifold-turbine housing nut: MD132930 x2
Exhaust manifold-turbine housing stud: MN119784 x2
Turbine housing-O2 housing gasket: MR299686
Turbine housing-O2 housing stud: MR224441 x2
Turbine housing-O2 housing bolt: MD062961 x3
Turbine housing-02 housing nut: MD050073 x2
I have my 10.5 and o2 housing ready to install, but I started thinking about tuning today. Will I need a retune right away with this installed or can I wait (the Dynoflash guy is coming to Atlanta in a few months)? I am waiting to install my 272 cams until a few days before he arrives to retune my car, but will the 10.5 and o2 be cool for now?
You should be safe to drive the car but wont notice much of a power gain until you get tuned. If I was you I would wait and do this and the cams at the same time though, like a few days or weeks before Al comes to the ATL.
Ok I just installed the 10.5 hotside and helix 02 on my friends 03. Here is the problem im running into now. The idle is alot rougher than it was before. It pops alot. I tightened everything down to spec then went back over everything to make sure it was all tight and everything is fine. I am just trying to figure out how the idle got so rough. Any ideas? Also The write up was great easy installation couple of pita spots but that goes with everything. The car does feel faster in the upper RPM range my friend is happy so I am happy haha. Alright take care guys



