Pennzoil Synchromesh is GL4, which meets our tranny requirement. Viscosity is around SAE80. FSM calls outs for 75W-90 or 75W-85. Jon@TRE says it's okay to use and doesn't cause any abnormal wear.

I went from using Redline MT90 to Pennzoil Synchromesh. The difference between the two is very noticeable. My shifts are a lot smoother and shifting notchiness has been reduced significantly. Redline shifts also require a lot less effort too.

The SS clutch line gives you a more direct clutch pedal feel. Less expansion in the clutch line translates to more clutch disengagement every time you step on the pedal.

The restrictor slows down how fast the clutch can engage and disengage. The purpose of this is to save the t-case from people doing redline clutch dumps. If you can control yourself from doing clutch drops, removing restrictor shouldn't cause any problems and should prolong your clutch life when you launch properly (i.e. slipping the clutch).

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Likewise, thanks for the explanation Marksae

 

Having the stock rubber line allows the fluid to expand and stretch the line under pressure, steel does not. Most noticable when swapping the clutch line is the exact point of clutch engagement. Before it was somewhere in about a 1 inch arc when releasing the clutch, now it ALWAYS engages exactly at the same point (no guessing). As far as the restrictor removal, I believe there is a write up in the how-to section and on evomoto's web page (tech section). If you can't find anything let me know and I'll try to do a write up on it.

 

Awsome, thanks for the info, so it is basically the same idea as steel braided brake lines.

 

erh, kind of...Removing the restrictor cuts down on grinding/slipping and the steel braided line provides more accurate engagement. Just remember that removing the restrictor makes explaining any driveline problems to your dealer a bit tricky (I guess you could always put it back in if it came to that). The restrictor was put in by Mitsubishi to reduce tearing the T.C. and other parts to bits when launching at high rpms, unfortunately it also causes grinding and slipping and pretty much sucks azz for drag racing. So far I haven't had any problems with it removed and I haven't run into anyone else that has either.

 

I hate to get off topic here, (and if you think this is too off topic please PM me with an answer). Could you explain the transfer case issue to me, I am not familiar with it, I assume it is between the transmission and the axles, but 1)what is its basic function, 2)where exactly is it located, and 3)why can it be ripped apart at high RPM launches? Thanks for the info.

 

changing the tranny fluids will make it smoother but it wont fix the prob i did it already and its bcoms smoother but it wont go away i had this prob on my 3ed and the only cause of ti is the hard and quick shifting if u can find an old used gearbox of an old evo then u will take there 2ed parts and palce them into urs thats what i did take care man
and about the oil i used 75w-90 its the best i think