u can hear them...is one obvious detection

 

Ok now that i've found where to get t-bolt clamps, what size lol

 

Rich,

when pumping air into the turbo inlet via homemade coupler, at max my boost guage would read only upto 13psi. Yet, I did'nt hear any leaks anywhere on the intake pipes.

for prep, what are you suppose to clamp prior to pumping air?

I'll def. hit you up on this next time I see you in person...

how's the rabbit?

thx

 

I didn't clamp anything. It seems to hold pressure except for the leaks in the IC piping that I've found.

I haven't had much time to tune the car lately, so the rabbit is sleeping for the most part. I'm trying to make sure that all boost leaks are fixed before investing too much effort in tuning and I also need to resolve the accuracy of my boost gauge. I think it reads high and one of the reasons that I haven't seen much improvement from the WR is that I'm only running ~19 psi. I'm thinking of getting an NIST-certified pressure gauge (~$40) so that I can calibrate my AEM MAP sensor properly and know what my real boost pressure is.

 

Maybe with the stock airbox, but my cone filter is so loud that I'd never hear a leak over all of the turbo noise other than a really big one that whistled.

 

I did the same thing. I bought an accurate gauge (+/-2%) from McMaster to check my Autometer gauge. The Autometer is an electric style using a GM 3-bar MAP sensor. I was delighted to find the Autometer gauge to be dead on accurate in comparision.

 

For those of us with a stock intake box, how exactly does this work?? If you take off the stock intake pipe you have a wide open system and your BOV and all your vacuum lines to the BC solenoid wide open. I understand that the BOV will open at a certain pressure but what do you do with the vacuum lines off the turbo??

 

I just plugged the intake outlet on my BOV on that side. On the BC solenoid side, I have an MBC, so that was just capped off.

 

That makes sense. I have a Vishnu passive boost control tube. It is a little tube connecting the two vacuum lines that go to the BC solenoid. It has a pinhole that bleeds boost. I guess I won't be able to test those lines.

 

i like the idea of using a stock ic coupler. better than the previous version i saw that used pvc because you can't really get pvc pipe in small pieces. just large sections. oh and i had an idea. instead of putting the motor at tdc, y dont' you get another one of the pvc caps and take off the couple that goes to the throttle body and cap it off. then you don't have to worry.

 

Anyone?

 

Good write up on the pressure tester. My roomate has one here for his car that ill have to use. To be honest Im pretty disappointed in the products that you got from Buschur. I mean a warped flange, hole in the intercooler, and bad welding on the lower intercooler piping. I have the exact mods as you do and I am real curious to see if I have the same problems. If I do I will be contacting Buschur to see about getting new parts.

How is the RTV sealant on the intercooler? I would think that it would just get blown directly off as soon as boost came on. Is there a special way you put in on the intercooler?

 

The leak on the core is tiny and in a crevice where the RTV was able to stick. Also, the whole is not big enough to blow out the RTV. I did have that problem on the weld at the top of the pipe off the turbo. RTV would not hold. That's why I took it off and JB Weld'ed it. None of these leaks was enough to notice a difference in the way the car drives, but I'm glad to know that the car is leak free.

 

Heres a pic of the one I made from a stock intake tube

 

where are u guys getting the like bike nipple to pump it up i have no idea where to find one of those?


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