once awhile I get this big white smoke coming out of my tail pipe when driving it hard. this happens couple of days right after I installed my Oil Catch can, which was the 1st time I drove the hard since I installed the catch can.. but I had my A/C on max. So I thought it was just the AC... Anyways, couple of days later I drove the car again (with A/C Off) and nothing happen. The next day I decided to test drive if the white smoke happens again, and next thing I knew theres a big white smoke behind me.

This doesn't happen if I drive normal. could it be the piston or cylinder head cracked ? A friend of mine says it's not the catch can and say it's the cylinder head but I say on one of the threads it was the piston is cracked

My mods are:
- HKS 264's cams
- Turbo back exhaust w/ UR test pipe
- U-Tec (tuned by TurboTrix)
- IC Pipes
- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

my car was dynoed at about 333whp. I would appreciate any suggestions or comments...

Thanks !

 

More than likely the head studs have stretched. This is causing the head to lift ever so slightly when under load, letting in coolant. This coolant burns off as white smoke.

What are you boosting to?

 

sounds like Headgasket about to go.. probably from head studs.. Ever had your car detonate?



I'd order a new headgasket and arp headstuds and replace them before the head gasket goes.

 

Definitly Head Gasket.

 

i'm boosting 22psi but sometime it peaks at 24psi.

when I got the cams installed, I didn't re-torque the headstuds. Do I need to retorque this within certain miles after it's installed ?

I might as well rebuild the engine if it's the head gasket. any idea how much is the labor ?

 

If you never retorqued the headstuds then you can probably retorque them and it will be fine. You wouldn't be the first to do this and get away with it.
Also, bump the torque up from ARP's recommended 70 to 80 or 85 max.

 

Do the retorque and you should be fine. Cross your fingers and don't push the car that hard until you do this. Good luck man!

 

From what you're describing (circumstances before and after) it would surprise me if it was not the head gasket.

 

id check your coolant tank...if there is oil mixed with it or in coolant in your oil then the head gasket is leaking...still retorque the head bolts to factory then..but check your fluids

 

I would say that it would be the headgasket as well, or it could just be lifting the head and pushing and burning the coolant. Like the gentleman before this post said. Check the coolant overflow, or you cna even just take the oil cap off. It the headgasket is blown it would look almost like a light colored chocolate milkshake. Good luck

Jarrod
Buschur Racing Inc.

 

So you have ARP head studs already?

A head gasket problem is a long ways from needing a rebuilt engine! If the retorquing the head doesn't solve the problem and you need to pull the head, then it might be a good time to install new valvesprings though and maybe a kevlar timing belt for extra insurance.

 

edit.... double post.

 

Thanks Guys !

the informations above is really helpfull

i checked the coolant overflow and I noticed there's a yellow (kinda like a rust color) around overflow. the coolant is too dark so not sure if it's normal

Yes, I have the ARP head studs. I was thinking of rebuilding the engine (change the piston and rod or maybe even storker kit) since most parts will be remove when changing the head gasket to save on labor, which I was planning on changing at a later time anyway. But I think I'll try to retorque the headstuds first this weekend and see from there.

Hopefully I won't need to change (piston,rods,headgasket,etc...) any parts as yet. I have ton's of parts that I just bought that haven't even installed yet.

 

If the coolant isn’t the normal florescent light green, it may be mixed with oil. This indicates that there is a High chance the head gasket is bad.

Once you re-torque the headstunds I would recommend flushing your coolant system too. Afterwards, monitor that coolant level and its color to see if oil is mixing with it.