I am not a fan of the 3076, we sell them and they aren't horrible but for the extra lag that they have over the 3071 I would say just go with a GT35R at that point.

I have made 450 whp on a built 2 liter on an AWD Dynojet with our GT3076 turbo kit and race gas. Pump/alky I'd say subract maybe 30 whp from that. That brings us down to the 420 whp range, in my estimation.

With that said I'd say the race would be a close one from a roll at 40 or drag race. Problem is the rest of the time you were driving it for just the enjoyment the lag would suck.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

My buddy has a gt3076 and to me its just not worth the money. GO BIG OR GO HOME. If you are doing a turbo kit just go with a gt35r. Otherwise stay in the stock turbo family. The gt3076 is just too laggy for the power it makes. Changes the whole way you drive the car too as its no longer as much fun as a stocker in the twisties. You really got to stay up in the rpms for it to move where as the stocker you can punch it at 3500 and have plenty of useable power. Just my .02

 

thanks Mr. Buschur and Ultimate CC,

the reason i asked about the 3076r is because i live in a high elevation area (6000ft) so it does not seem like the 35r is going to work. the next step seems to be the 3076r. from what i have read, it seems like the 20g would make around 400whp and 400+tq and the 3076r would make around 475+whp and close to 400tq, both on pump and alky.

what turbo would you guys suggest for my situation? mostly for drag racing, trying to outperform supercharged v8s, sti w/20g, etc.

 

The BR20G-9 with methanol and some 280's should do it.

 

I'm coming into this thread ultra-mega-uber late, so pardon if this point is moot ...

If you measure the boost "pressure" from two different places in your induction system, the results can be drastically different. The reason for this is, put simply, the Bernoulli Principle-- moving gasses have different static pressures at different relative velocities.

So if the velocity of the gas, or the direction of the gas, is different between the two sensor locations, they can easily read quite differently and BOTH be accurate.

-Adrian

p.s. Some speed-density systems have a sensor which actually points "into the wind" because it allows more accurate (albeit sometimes less consistent) fuelling in varying conditions. Why? Because any increase in airflow into the engine will result in more air "hitting" the sensor and increasing the reading.

With ordinary MAP sensors, you can increase the airflow past the sensor without the sensor "feeling" any of the extra airflow.

 

dave!


im looking in the 20 g and i have an 04 EVO. I have 280s in mind, What am i looking for spool up? Im not Heavy in mods. some bolt ons i guess.

my mods are


UTEC. Turbo back, intake, hardpipes, 280s (maybe), ported exhuast mani, so on

 

The 20G makes 20 psi before 4,000 rpm. Anyone here that has one, you are noticing the same thing right?

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Wow that's awesome. Better spool than stocker.

 

Not even close.

 

Are you saying 20g isn't close to spool of stocker or other way around? Because I don't see 20psi until I am above 4k.

 

I think he's saying that you see 20 psi well before 4k on the stock turbo (at least in 3rd gear and above).

 

oh, In the earlier gears I don't.

 

Exactly, you should see full boost with the stock turbo well before 4k.

 

Dave,
Have you had a chance to test out the old style 20G-8 w/ the ported compressor cover? Just wondering if it helped any and if they will be on sale any time soon.

 

porting or not, its not going to help the fact the the turbo will surge, the wheel is too big for the turbo on the '03-'05. Im sure dave has done all he can with the 20g-8.