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Valvesprings/retainers

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:42 PM
  #16  
144mph's Avatar
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by BMan
You can use nylon rope fed down the sparkplug hole instead of an air compressor.
...or I usually use vacuum tubing as it's more readily available when i'm working on the car.

You guys definately don't need to remove the head or buy expensive tools to get this job done.

There was a writeup on www.vfaq.com about using a 2x4, open well deep-dish socket, and needle nose pliers to replace the springs/retainers, but I can't seem to locate it any more. It's a simple method I've used a few times with great success.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 08:08 AM
  #17  
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So I looked at the OEM shop manual last night and it says just put the cylinder at TDC to prevent dropping a valve into the cylinder.

When removing valve spring retainer locks, leave the piston of each cylinder in the TDC (Top Dead Center) position. The valve may fall into the cylinder if the piston is not properly in the TDC position. Use special tool MD998772 to compress the valve spring, remove the valve spring retainer locks.


They also have a picture of their valve spring compressor tool. It is clearly not a lever arm device and looks like it would be very easy to use.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 06:50 AM
  #18  
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Exactly - that's the right tool for doing the springs when you want to leave the head on the car. When I priced one I was quoted ajust over $350 for it. The "level arm" devices also bolt onto the head, but instead of having a screw-type compressor use a lever that works against the center beam. The main reason the lever-arm devices are popular is cost - about $100 or so.

Even if the cylinder is at TDC, the valve can still slip some if you don't have something holding the valves up. If your valve slips down at all, it can be very tough to fit the keepers. This same problem also extends to lever style valve compressors - it's very hard to keep enough presure on them for long enough to fit the keepers correctly.

The keepers on an Evo can be mis-aligned slightly while both looking correct and still hold the valve spring firmly in place - but if you end up using Ferrea (or other "doubled spring") valve spring then any valve that had mis-aligned keepers would eventually have a spring fail. The slightly canted retainer will force the inner and outer valve springs into contact - several thousand times a minute.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 11:35 AM
  #19  
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Last time I pulled valve springs I was able to purchase a pressure hold adapter from a local auto parts store. But that was for a V8 and it was very short, thus wouldn't work with the Evo.

Does anyone have a pointer to an adapter that is long enough to extend the hose connection above the head?

Erioshi -> I might just purchase the tool as I can't get the local guys to give me the time of day. In addition they want 2x the cost of the tool to swap springs.

Last edited by freedom; Sep 11, 2005 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 12:40 PM
  #20  
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Freedom - if you need the tool PM me and I'll see if I can grab one for you. To set up compressed air to hold the valves closed I used the rubber hose from my (Craftsman) compression testor - it fits the connectors on my air hoses.

Let me know if I can help.
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