great pictures dude...

 

Once I really get into boost I'll post some videos of the lag...honestly it doesn't feel that bad. I can see boost start to register as low as 3k rpms....and somewhere around 4.5k rpms it's seeing 1.5 bar (I might be a little off). Currently the cam gears are set at -2/+2...probably try out a few more settings and see how it responds. Thanks for the comments, it's been a big learning experience so I'm open to comments by others that have already done this as well.

 

good luck with the car. looks like u took ur time and did things right, atleast this way u wont have to go back and do nonsense things over again i hope. how much power r u looking to make that u felt u had to replace the rod bolts?

 

I love threads like these!

Great job on the photojournalism and the Evo build-up! I'm impressed!

Q: How is the Ralliart mounts? Do you feel alot more vibrations/shock in the cabin? More info about them please...

 

Yes, a lot more vibration particularly at certain rpms...right around 3-4k while driving, and a lot more at idle as well. It's what I wanted and expected, but will certainly cut down on the "plushness" of the ride...but who buys an evo for that anyway? Plus side is that the engine barely moves now and feels way more solid. I picked up the set of 4 for $300, I have only installed the two side mounts and the front mount so far since I'm waiting on shipment of the rear mount. From what I was told the front mount is the most important. I bought them at a local rally prep/fabrication shop

http://www.cascadeautosport.com

 

looks like fun

 

Big job there! My question is why would you remove the piston in order to change the rod bolts? I would never take out a piston and replace it in with the same rings and all. No matter how carefull you are the rings will turn somewhat and they will be facing a whole new part of the cylinder that they have never seen before. Is that your own private garage with a lift? Im jealous bro!!!

 

The ARP rod bolts needed to be pressed in, and had to press out the stock bolts since they are grooved (knurls I think). There wasn't an easy way to do that while the rod was still in the block.

 

Wow...that's a ton of work...I hear you on running out of money when you do a lot of work, but I definitely would've bought new rods and pistons if I was pulling the motor apart, even if I had to put em on a credit card...

I guess as long as you can promise yourself not to want more than 400-450 whp you will not have any regrets.

Keep us updated after you get tuned

 

once u get it tuned the lag will reduce greatly. i have the exact same set up and i have full boost by 4300-4500rpm(21-25psi) at 5000ft above sea level.

 

interesting, ive been wanting a APT kit but havent decided on it yet.

 

I have done the ARP bolts with the rods still in the car, there is a way although it is easier if you take the whole rod out.

 

man youre a nutball! thats a lot of work, i wish i had the time...tools...lift...etc to do that to my car nice work!!!

 

Nice garage and the most important thing is great work.. there is no better thing than doing it yourself


I will be replacing my head gasket soon..

 

yeah I figured if you pulled the engine apart, you may as well add better rods and pistons. If you are going with a 3071 you could bump the compresion to 9.0-1 and get better spool and no threat of detonation. I bet if you swapped on a true Garrett Hotside and got a proper manifld you'd see better spool and topend after tuning.