Of course it works, just look at the dyno sheet on the first page And just saying what I have said before, I used this type of dry kit on all of my cars with great results. And so have many others. This isnt something new. People have been doing it on ls1's for close to 10 years now

 

I will get the that a/f print out for you. Once you hit the bottle you will never be without one

 

thanks. All i would like to see is how ur car is responding to the nitrous. It obviously is making power, judging by ur dyno sheet. but i would like to see if it is making power safely and reliably.

 

I saw a similiar thing with a friends car. Base run was 190hp/210tq on a 16g. On a 75 shot it made 330hp/439tq. Not a mistprint on the torque.

 

i cant stop thinking about this setup but was hoping for more info. Anyone got anything useful to add!?

 

Nice.

 

There is no way that could be correct! A 75 shot won't make 140 extra whp and 229trq. Something was wrong with the dyno reading or something.

I know plenty of people that have big16G's on their eclipse and a shot of nitrous, but none of them produced anywhere near the power you are describing.

 

Those setups look super ghetto.

I would rather do it properly with a wet shot in the UICP.

 

The numbers are correct. The catch is the dyno curve was pathetic. The power only lasted 6-700rpm then fell off like a rock. The nitrous caused the turbo to overspool to 29psi at 3500 rpm, thus the high torque numbers.

 

That makes no sense as I made 315whp and 330trq(93 oct and 21psi) on a big 16G on my 96 GST spyder. Why was the base run so low?

I could see picking up a little horsepower and close to 100trq with a 75 shot, now maybe that makes sense.

 

It makes all the sense in the world when you understand the HP is nothing more than tq X rpm. When torque is high at a low rpm the HP will low. City buses make 300hp/1400tq at 1500rpm. The car was a 90 AWD turbo converted to RWD. It had stock sidemount and 450cc injectors. All it had done to it was the the 16g turbo and 2.5 inch exhaust and a boost controller. The numbers are not fudged, saw it with my own two eyes at the dyno. Not second hand info that gets inflated. Also ran the car on the g-tech right after leaving the dyno. Wanted to see how acurate a g-tech was comparred to a real dyno. Results were the g-tech is as good as a real dyno as the curves were nearly identical.

here is a thread from nov 2003 where "nick" was showing pics of his broken FWD frame. The reason he converted the car to RWD.

http://tampabay.dsm.org/phpBB/viewto...ighlight=439tq

my memory was pretty dang close on the numbers