I didn't do headstuds on my cam install and so far so good. It's been about 4 weeks since with not so much as an oil leak. I even bought them, then decided not to put them in. I don't plan on getting a bigger turbo (AutoXing, not drag racing), so i opted not to risk messing anything up doing the "one by one" method. There are plenty of BIG TIMERS on this site that would agree that your stock bolts will hold just fine.

If i had to do it all over again, the only thing i would do different would be use the cam tool. It'll help out a butt load.

 

the standard i have seen for studs is running over 23 psi, or severe track use, with constant and prolonged high boost running.. again no need to remove the head for stud installs.. these are studs not bolts.. one by one has worked for tons.. as long as you heat cycle them..

 

So this works for our motor? It says its for the 2.4l but if it fits then.

Im not planning on doing the headgasket because most people agree that the stock one is best anyways.

The reason Im doing headstuds now is beause I'll have the head off to do the cams anyways and I'm planning on adding alky this summer. Thanks for all the help guys. Now if I could just get some for my headlight blackout ?'s

 

don't think you need to take the head off to do cams?
I wasn't planning on taking it off.
do the headstuds one at a time as detailed in the how-to sections. takes about an hour.

 

you don't need to take the head off to do cams, just the valve cover

 

yea, I didn't think that you want to break the head gasket seal if you don't have to. change cams and do the studs using the one at a time procedure.

 

Oops, I meant take the valve cover off. Alittle difference I guess!

 

also do your studs in the tighten down sequence as found in the shop manual..

 

1) Bleed lashes (lifters) or some will internally rupture afterwards
2) Use Ultra Black sealant from Advance
3) Breaking loose the cam sprocket bolts is tough
4) Just buy the tension tool ($30) - You absolutely have to turn it slow like 1/4 of a turn at a time/wait, and if you feel it bind, you jammed the mechanism.
5) Take your time. I hear people bragging on doing the job in 4 hours - I spent about an hour or two just cleaning the surfaces and prepping for sealant.
6) I don't know about headstuds

 

i'm gettin my hks 280's put in, as well as injectors, forge WG actuator, and maybe my meth kit, i'm not sure if i wanna sell it or keep it yet

 

Where did you get your Tension tool from? $30 is cheap.

 

thanks for the info

 

i would check road race engineering site for their tips on installing cams.

Good information on that site.

 

30 bucks is cheap

 

Yes this tool will work. I used it and it worked perfect. For those that dont know what im talking about this is the timing belt tensioner tool. It only costs 9 bucks plus shipping. Here is the link again for those that misssed it http://www.otctools.com/frames-newcatalog.php3.

1. In the search bar type in belt tensioner
2. Scroll down to the first one provided #6001 and that is the one you want to get.