Another weight savings thread
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
I would personally skip the aluminum foor for the trunk. Cutting the trunk floor is tough as it provides support for the rear diff. too. If you do decide to do something like this I have some kick *** seam sealer that you can bond the two back together with and it will prevent it from rusting.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Trina, if you need a cage built, I can put in you touch with my fabricator. While I type this, we are developing a fuel system as well. (Not a fuel cell tho) He can basically do anything you want.
Originally Posted by joeymia
do you happen to know the name of the seam sealer? I want to seal my trunk so I don't catch any beef from the guys at the track because of the battery and meth.
I got the switch behind my drivers side tail light. When I go to the track I remove the light and attach the lever to turn it on and off.
Was looking for several containers for the meth but they all seemed for race fuel. They had returns etc... Not sure which one I should get, summitracing has a ton of them.
How much weight do you think can be saved by switching to that aluminum trunk and fuel cell? Once I get my daily driver I have been thinking of going that route. My car should be sitting easily at the low 3100's. Hopefully by the summer I can be under 3k.
Removing the tank will also allow us to get rid of the ruge hump under rear seats since its the gas tank. Probally another 50 lbs or so there. Just need to fab a tunnel for the drive shaft I guess.
Was looking for several containers for the meth but they all seemed for race fuel. They had returns etc... Not sure which one I should get, summitracing has a ton of them.
How much weight do you think can be saved by switching to that aluminum trunk and fuel cell? Once I get my daily driver I have been thinking of going that route. My car should be sitting easily at the low 3100's. Hopefully by the summer I can be under 3k.
Removing the tank will also allow us to get rid of the ruge hump under rear seats since its the gas tank. Probally another 50 lbs or so there. Just need to fab a tunnel for the drive shaft I guess.
Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
You will need to completely seal off the battery and the meth container from the trunk (Or seal off the trunk from the passenger compartment... there is a large hole going from the trunk to the rear seat. Morrosso makes a good battery box and the meth you would need a certified cell (Or get something made certified). After both those items, you would need to make a shell to go around the cell to seal it off. You also need a battery kill switch at the rear of the car. A few companies make these (Big switch that says something like "Push OFF" or a left right switch that reads "OFF ON"). Most any track wont let you race if they know your battery is back there without the switch.
You also need to be careful on how much you start getting rid of. These cars are unibody so you will need to resupport alot of the stuff you toss with beams. I have never installed a cell but I am thinking at least 60-70 lbs if you remove the trunk floor also. You will get it under 3k easily without doing any body fabrication work.
So I finally tore the dash out. The airbag assembly in the dash is very easy to remove once your in there. It does weigh a decent amount just for the bag. My guess is total weight for all the sensors, SRS Ecu and both bags is probably in the 25 lb range.. more if you took all the wiring out but thats probably a pretty decent PITA. Ill weigh it all once its all out. The heater core and blower motor are pretty hefty as well. I havent removed them yet and Im still contemplating whether I should or not. I like the heater but if there is an electric heater that will sorta work I would much rather go with that.... installing the cage and tossing weight would be much easier without those two big @ss things in the way.
I also finally took out the seats as well and I believe the slider mechanisms for the seats should be race legal. They are dual locking and I think thats the only requirement but Im not sure. It just seems alot easier for me to use those instead of the ones I bought for the new seats.
I guess its finally time to get the cage welded in
I also finally took out the seats as well and I believe the slider mechanisms for the seats should be race legal. They are dual locking and I think thats the only requirement but Im not sure. It just seems alot easier for me to use those instead of the ones I bought for the new seats.
I guess its finally time to get the cage welded in
Well here is a more detailed list on some weights I finally got around to weighing:
Stock Battery / Bracket -> Lightweight = 17.2 lbs
Trunk Stuff / Carpeting / Wood = 41 lbs
Front bumper = 13.4 lbs
Rear bumper = 17.1 lbs
Blower motor = 6.8 lbs
Heater/AC Core = 7.2 lbs
Firewall Deadening = 14.2 lbs
Passenger side airbag = 6.1 lbs
A/C Fan = 6.4 lbs
Refrigerant = 3.5 lbs
Condensor w/ lines = 9.8 lbs
Compressor = 14.1 lbs
AC Bracket = 4 lbs
Rear wiper assembly = 5 lbs
Evap / Purge Stuff = 9 lbs
Stock seats -> Summit seats (2) = 42 lbs
Remove wing = 7 lbs
Rear Seat / Back = 21 lbs
Both rear speakers = 8 lbs
I still need to remove the carpet padding on the floor. There is a metal bracket that holds in also so I believe it will weigh a decent amount all-together. I will also be most likely cutting the rear firewall / hump off when I put the cage in and replace it with a small sheet of aluminum or sheetmetal and brace it with a bar going between both rear struts. That will be some decent weight. If I can, I would like to get rid of the very large bar that goes across the driver to passenger side under the dash. It looks monstrous and with all the little brackets on there that arent needed it would be nice. Ill also find out how much the front strut bar weighs and a few bars underneath the car. The driverside bag still needs to go along with whatever I decide to do to the doors. Ill keep ya informed.
Here are some pics of the car in the ugliest state Ive seen:
http://www.thedrunken.com/gallery/ma...2_itemId=18660
Stock Battery / Bracket -> Lightweight = 17.2 lbs
Trunk Stuff / Carpeting / Wood = 41 lbs
Front bumper = 13.4 lbs
Rear bumper = 17.1 lbs
Blower motor = 6.8 lbs
Heater/AC Core = 7.2 lbs
Firewall Deadening = 14.2 lbs
Passenger side airbag = 6.1 lbs
A/C Fan = 6.4 lbs
Refrigerant = 3.5 lbs
Condensor w/ lines = 9.8 lbs
Compressor = 14.1 lbs
AC Bracket = 4 lbs
Rear wiper assembly = 5 lbs
Evap / Purge Stuff = 9 lbs
Stock seats -> Summit seats (2) = 42 lbs
Remove wing = 7 lbs
Rear Seat / Back = 21 lbs
Both rear speakers = 8 lbs
I still need to remove the carpet padding on the floor. There is a metal bracket that holds in also so I believe it will weigh a decent amount all-together. I will also be most likely cutting the rear firewall / hump off when I put the cage in and replace it with a small sheet of aluminum or sheetmetal and brace it with a bar going between both rear struts. That will be some decent weight. If I can, I would like to get rid of the very large bar that goes across the driver to passenger side under the dash. It looks monstrous and with all the little brackets on there that arent needed it would be nice. Ill also find out how much the front strut bar weighs and a few bars underneath the car. The driverside bag still needs to go along with whatever I decide to do to the doors. Ill keep ya informed.
Here are some pics of the car in the ugliest state Ive seen:
http://www.thedrunken.com/gallery/ma...2_itemId=18660
Last edited by TrinaBabe; Feb 6, 2006 at 06:33 PM.
Here is a pic of a DSM that removed the rear pseudo-firewall. I will do the same thing but since ours is 4 door w/ trunk I will remove the whole back dash type thing also and just weld up one sheet to seal off the trunk. I would guess this will be 35-50 lbs with the speakers and dashtop.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/ima...e/DCP_1829.JPG
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/ima...e/DCP_1829.JPG
shoulda bought a dsm if you were gonna rape it like that. i hope you don't care about the value of your evo.
i say max out your current setup and weight before you go tearin crap outa there.....
i say max out your current setup and weight before you go tearin crap outa there.....
Nah, I got the time to do it so why not. Last year sucked. This year wont hopefully. These mods take a long time to do so I might as well do it while its cold outside so I can enjoy in the race season. Otherwise after the 3rd track day I will want to do it all anyways. Ive had plenty of DSMs... I like the Evo. Harder to work on but looks nice and has a stronger driveline. I plan to max out the setup this year which is why I am doing all this. I will hopefully have the fastest stock motor Evo shortly. I would like to see the car hit a low 10 this summer.
And I do care very much about the value of the car. I value it more now than I did when it was new so the value is appreciating. Its not exactly like Im gonna sell this as a street car anymore
And I do care very much about the value of the car. I value it more now than I did when it was new so the value is appreciating. Its not exactly like Im gonna sell this as a street car anymore
And its not like your telling Al, Dave Buschur and Curt to not gut thiers, why me
Because I am a mortal unlike them? Not exactly like any of them maxxed out thier setups.
Because I am a mortal unlike them? Not exactly like any of them maxxed out thier setups.


