I just spent the last hour reading this thread, and my god the ideas you have given me i didnt even know the spare tire was that heavy i know what to take out when race season comes thanks Trina!

 

These cars are pigs plain and simple but if I didnt install the roll cage and all the other safety stuff I would guess my car would be extremely close to 2800 flat with some gas but no driver. Thats not bad considering the car still does have a stereo and looks stock (Aside from the rear seats).

 

Not sure how much weight. I'd say the entire rear door at this point weighs in at 10 pounds or less. That's a guess.

The door beams are tough to get out if you don't want to damage the outside paint. We drilled the spot welds out.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Did you keep the glass, window motor and plastic door shell intact or is is just a shell with a sheetmetal inside?

 

There is nothing left of the door but the basic frame. We are putting lexan in the window holes and using a bracket to hold them up in place.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Aw

It seems your gonna have me pretty beat for weight. Have you weighed the total car yet?

 

damn, I wanna see pictures

 

My car, once again, will be out of commission for a while for the clutch problems. Once I get it back I think I might used some sheet aluminum and a grinder and see if I can get the rear doors done up. I wont use Lexan and I will try to keep the stock door latch/lock. The windows going up and down Im not too worried about though. If I do this Ill get some pics and some weights from it all.

 

clutch problems? what clutch do you have? What happened to it?

 

Quartermasters Twin-Disc with hydraulic release bearing. Long story short, first I had one of the wrong discs, now it wont disengage fully. It seems that either the disc(s) are warped or the friction plate hubs are worn out so they do not float freely on the input shaft. Considering I can not seperate the tranny from the block I am going with option B (hubs are worn out). Everyone is standing behind thier stuff so it will get fixed shortly, just a major pain in the ***. I will use some antisieze of somesort this time around and hopefully finally see what the car is capable of. With 26-27 psi, a horrid "launch" and granny shifting it netted an 11.4 @ 126 and an 11.8 @ 127 so I think with 30 psi or so and real shifting it should be in the solid 10s. We will see I guess.

 

I talked with another local Evo place and was talking about the doors. It seems it was pretty easy for them to drill out the spot welds on the door brace beams without needing any paint or body work when done. They gutted out all the doors aside from the driver door and made small aluminum brackets to hold the glass (Yes stock glass) up. They were guessing the weight from all this was around 60 lbs. When I do my rear doors I will find out exactly how much per door can be tossed without swapping the glass. I will also keep the doors so they function (to lower the glass you would need to take out the aluminum bracket though).

 

Ummm...there is more benefits to dropping weight than just acceleration. By dropping weight off the evo you will be:

1.) Accelerating faster
2.) Deaccelerating faster
3.) Turning Faster
4.) Saving gas
5.) Putting less stress on your drivetrain and suspension components

You can't do all these things by just adding power. But if all you care about is going straight then yeah go ahead and just add a bigger turbo and more fuel and while your at it why not just go buy a mustang

 

I have two questions about some of the weight reduction items

1 - What is the point of EVAP and what happens if you remove it?
2 - What exactly is the under car bracing and brackets and what is the drawback of removing them.

How do you remove the EVAP and which under car brackets do you remove?

Thanks

 

Hey, I saw this posted, but I didn't see the answer, so sorry if this is a repost. How much is the weight savings with lexan windows?