The 3071 shouldn't be left out of this conversation. I've been told that if you're using ONLY pump gas than the 3071 and 3076 will produce the same power. It isn't until you throw in some race gas that the 3076 shows significant high end gains over the 3071.

I've been researching new turbos for a while now. I had more or less settled on the 3071 until I started reading about the 20G IX. Unfortunately, just about the time I was starting to get excited, a bunch of old DSMers started warning me about how terrible the 20G has been from a reliability perspective. Apparently the thrust bearing and the shaft that runs through the cartridge are undersized and prone to failure. It sounds like the 20G is notorious for broken shafts because it uses the same shaft as the 16G. The compressor and turbine wheels from the 20g td05 or td06 20g are used on the skinny 16g shaft. Then they open up the turbine housing (especially in the case of the td06 tubine wheel) and install a bigger compressor housing. Apparently it's an unbalanced situation internally. The strong recommendation I was given was an internally gated 50 trim garret. They also suggested keeping the 16G rather than getting a 20G. Although the 20G IX is a new turbo, I was told it retains the same internal parts from past 20G turbos that make them prone to failure and unpopular with the DSM crowd.

I'm just repeating what I've heard, so I have no opinion one way or the other yet. It just seems there might be more to the 20G then we're being told. Sounds like it's had a checkered past on the 4G63.

 

i haven't heard that.... mr. bucshur? any comments?

 

I agree. I've had a blast so far with mine, and it's about to get a LOT more fun with the cams that just came in yesterday (Revolver).

The only downside of a larger turbo is, of course, spool time. I reach 26psi by about 4300rpm. The power curve that can be expected from a setup like mine can be found in this thread (contains my Mustang dyno graph).

You can build up an Evo VIII/IX turbo pretty well, and have an outstanding midrange, but you won't pull the top-end numbers that a bigger turbo produces. If the intent is SCCA-style events, I may go for the VIII/IX build up. For road racing with some straight aways, I'd go 3071. Just my .02

Best of luck!

 

bump

 

The 3076, 3071, or the 3037are great turbos no doubt about it.. Im however running an 3037, .63 A/R and 84trim turbine wheel. The spool is quick like it should be and the topend is just as good as the 3076's I have seen on DynoDynamic dynos. I got the Turbo from Full-Race and im useing there Mani.

 

im interested in your set up. any dyno numbers?

 

I will have more conclusive numbers a bit later, As of now im still breaking in my clutch and trying to make sure all my new toys are set right without any issues b4 she really shines. However on an extremely nonaggresive pump gas tune she popped out 360 on a dynodynamic *converted to dynojet would be around 405* @ 20psi. I think im going to run 22psi on pump and 30 on race.. Again I dont have numbers for race just yet.

 

The claim of poor shaft/bearing reliability on 20Gs on DSMs is complete rubbish. I've known plenty of guys with 20Gs in DSMs, and they had no problems at all. This was never known in the overall DSM community as a problem with 20Gs. The "unbalanced situation internally" is also baseless. I've also had a 20G (BR) in a DSM, it was bulletproof, and the best damn street turbo I've ever had. I’m sure the new 20G/9s will be quite reliable when setup correctly, and maintained well. Please don't spread such false information.

 

Any comments on a non-2.3'd car lol

 

when do you hit full boost on the 3037?

 

I'm not spreading false information at all. I'm repeating what multiple DSM gurus have told me to see if there's any basis to it. This is a discussion and I made it very clear that's why I was bringing this up. All you've done is tell me it's baseless. That's not good enough. Tell me why. I've been given a physical account of the problem. Tell me why that's innacurate.

Buying a new turbo is not like getting a new air filter or some brake pads. It costs thousands of dollars for a kit and people have every right to know the FULL history of a product. That's all I'm trying to do. You say one thing and others have said the opposite.

 

What DSM gurus are you referring to then? I know who most of them are, and have not heard any of them talking about all these failed 20G shafts.



I'll tell you why I'm saying it's baseless... It's because I myself have had direct experience with the 20G, owned one for several years, helped others install them, and have traded information with many 20G owners over the years starting from the Talon Digest days. Everything you are saying goes against everything I've actually experienced over many years. All you have come up with is "multiple gurus said...". I think my direct experience certainly trumps your un-named “gurus” at this point. As a matter of fact, my 20G has been on two separate cars since I sold it a few years back, I know the present owner, and it’s still running now with no shaft, seal, or bearing failures in the entire time of either owner’s use. How’s that for accuracy?


Gee, ya think? If I ever need help with the obvious, I’ll make sure to call you first for that magic enlightenment.



I know full well what "buying a turbo is like", so don't try to condescend to me with that crap. You want to inform people about "the FULL history of a product", yet you have no direct experience with it. This problem you are describing goes totally against my extensive experience with these units over the years, as well as over 16 years experience wrenching on DSMs. You do not have a clue of the “FULL history” of 20Gs. I can assure you that I do.

You ARE misrepresenting the product with ZERO direct experience with it, and I am correcting you because you are just flat out wrong. Let your gurus come on here and give their personal account of how unreliable the 20Gs were/are. I assure you that there will be plenty of people on here telling you the same thing I am (if they have any direct experience, and are competent), and very few backing up your (or your “gurus”) claims.

People, do not let this guy convince you that 20Gs have a history of being an unreliable turbo on the DSMs. It is completely bogus information based upon zero personal experience.


Turd Squirter, It’s guys like you squirting baseless hearsay on here that keep experienced people from wanting to come on here and share information. It’s making this site a tedious read. Please stop.

 

If you're interested in staying with a stock style turbo like a TME, I recommend checking out http://www.blouchturbo.com . I think you'll find the best deal for the TME there.

 

I am all agaisnt big turbo lag, I just can't stand that. I had a heavy modded WRX which use to spool up at nearly 5000 Rpm, I wish I never fitted that bigger turbo on that car.


Anyway, back to the subject, I maintain that a big turbo will only do any good if you are a track oriented guy, if you go for more punch and all around driveability I think that either the Evo 9 turbo or the Evo 9 20-G would never let you down, also it will save you some good money as well..

There was aguy (MRscott) at www.evolutionmr.net that trapped 118.14mph on his Evo 8 MR on the stock turbo today, he also makes 404.6WHP/445.1 tq on a Dynojet, he also trapped a few 11.8 and at average speeds of 117mph, I am just giving you an example.

I am just saying that think twice before you go with a big turbo otherwise you might regret and miss the comfort of driving in town and normal driving with minimal turbolag. Another option could be a stroker, now days they are not that expensive and it gives you the best of two worlds.

my .2c

 

lol i guess i wanna have my cake and eat it too, i want to be able to hold close to 30psi to red line.. but spool around 3800-4000 rpms... guess i'm gonna have to pick one of the two....