That sucks bro, best of luck.

 

I think if it was a issue with the tune, you would have a hole in the piston or the skirt damaged. You should change your oil more often than 5000 miles. Sounds to me like a rod bearing was going,rod bolt failure. Sorry to hear about your luck.

 

this is not the first 05 evo to have a rod bearing leave

 

When tuning these engines, you got to run them richer as the revs rise. Extra cooling from running increasingly rich offsets the extra heat generated from higher engine speeds. This keeps everything cool as possible (combustion chambers, piston tops, oil, valves, etc,.) If things get too hot, too often, the weakest link will eventually break. Especially on pump gas when higher temps are not apprecaited.

Having a lean(er) spot at the hp peak makes for nice dyno numbers but really sucks when it comes to longevity and durability.

-shiv

 

got the flash two weeks ago, about 1900 miles since..

put the stock parts on and bring it to

The knocking started veerryyy softly at low RPM's and gradually got louder after 120 miles.. the motor blew finally at 2500 RPM. Been pushing 21.5-22 psi, tapering to just below 19 at redline. MBC is hooked up from the intake manifold -> MBC -> Wastegate actuator.. Turbo outlet and stock boost solenoid nipples are capped. Boost gauge line is hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line. I installed both according to the DIY's on EvoM.

All vaccum hoses are still properly attatched.. and the high boost at low throttle input only started after i'd been hearing the knock for a bit.. Seems like it was a by-product.

I'm definitely not blaming Dynoflash here guys, too early to tell the cause.. I have more pics, posting them in a second..

 

how rich do the Xflashes run up top Shiv? DO you aim for 11:1? And same question, are xflashes detectable by dealerships on warranty work (minus the passive boost solenoid element under the airbox?)

this isn't meant to be a flame war, just curious that's all. . .

 

Spun bearing... pretty much a bad outcome no matter what but shutting it down when you first heard the ticking would have probably saved a bit of money.

 

UPDATE: More carnage pics...

Front of the block, looking through the exh manifold


Oil pan. Front of the car is toward the bottom of the pic


Back of the block. Pic is sideways, top of the motor is on the right of the pic


Parts I pulled off of the plastic belly pan

 

stew, did you end up putting that walbro pump in?

 

shoulda had a wideband hooked up! does being cold have anything to do with leaning out the car?

 

man those pics are horrible

Hope you can get it fixed up w/o significant problems.

 

By 7000rpm, i usually tune XFlashes to run in the high 10s on 91oct. Maybe low 11s if the car is fully modded with full exhaust, cams, etc,. Leaner than that and your just asking for trouble. Especially if you are trying to put timing into it. And even if you pull out timing to keep it from pinging, egts will be uncomfortably high. Now most people will never know this due to sensor lag. That is, you're not above 7000rpm for very long and the probe wont react quick enough. But if you stuck it on a proper dyno and loaded it up at 7000rpm for 5 seconds, you'd see EGTs go through the roof. I suppose you could also do this on the street if you ride your brakes hard enough under boost. But then you lose vacuum assist and things get dangerous (so don't do it!).

Shiv

 

the compensation tables in the ECU should address temp fluctuations but you would have to turn the boost down.

 

Damn, that is some serious carnage.

 

I agree! running "normal" boost when its 20 degrees outside cant be good... Is that what you did?