Safe boost setting
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Safe boost setting
I installed a Profec B spec and have the boost set to 22psi, solid to peak rpm. I'm not runnin an AFC. What is the safest you can turn up the twin scroll 16g turbo before damaging it or the engine?
22 on stock ecu, eh? Hmm that's a good question. You should try to get a wideband on it to see what it's doing. I've only tried 19 or so to redline. I'd try to taper it off . Do you have exhaust?
The turbo question is one mainly of how long the turbo will last. At wastegate pressure it should last for 80k miles give or take depending on maintenance. At, say, 30 psi, it may only last long enough to change with your oil.
I've seen plenty of DSM's running 22+ all the time on the older 16G variants so it should last with proper synthetic oil changes and turbotiming.
See you around Columbus.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
The turbo question is one mainly of how long the turbo will last. At wastegate pressure it should last for 80k miles give or take depending on maintenance. At, say, 30 psi, it may only last long enough to change with your oil.
I've seen plenty of DSM's running 22+ all the time on the older 16G variants so it should last with proper synthetic oil changes and turbotiming.See you around Columbus.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Originally posted by QuantumEVO
22 on stock ecu, eh? Hmm that's a good question. You should try to get a wideband on it to see what it's doing. I've only tried 19 or so to redline. I'd try to taper it off . Do you have exhaust?
The turbo question is one mainly of how long the turbo will last. At wastegate pressure it should last for 80k miles give or take depending on maintenance. At, say, 30 psi, it may only last long enough to change with your oil. I've seen plenty of DSM's running 22+ all the time on the older 16G variants so it should last with proper synthetic oil changes and turbotiming.
See you around Columbus.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
22 on stock ecu, eh? Hmm that's a good question. You should try to get a wideband on it to see what it's doing. I've only tried 19 or so to redline. I'd try to taper it off . Do you have exhaust?
The turbo question is one mainly of how long the turbo will last. At wastegate pressure it should last for 80k miles give or take depending on maintenance. At, say, 30 psi, it may only last long enough to change with your oil.
I've seen plenty of DSM's running 22+ all the time on the older 16G variants so it should last with proper synthetic oil changes and turbotiming.See you around Columbus.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
I heard the TD05HR in the evo is a very good turbo. I dont think upping the boost will kill it. i was reading somewhere it's capable of 45 or so psi (real psi - no vacuum offset) before risk of destroying it.
stvbreal,
Where I worry about upping the boost on factory fuel settings is in places like 4th and 5th gear where the car runs a lot leaner to save fuel on the freeway. That's where my question lies. I think 21 - 22 should be ok on 93 octane....it's the 4th gear thing I'm worried about.
Rob
stvbreal,
Where I worry about upping the boost on factory fuel settings is in places like 4th and 5th gear where the car runs a lot leaner to save fuel on the freeway. That's where my question lies. I think 21 - 22 should be ok on 93 octane....it's the 4th gear thing I'm worried about.
Rob
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Originally posted by Coolguy949
I heard the TD05HR in the evo is a very good turbo. I dont think upping the boost will kill it. i was reading somewhere it's capable of 45 or so psi (real psi - no vacuum offset) before risk of destroying it.
stvbreal,
Where I worry about upping the boost on factory fuel settings is in places like 4th and 5th gear where the car runs a lot leaner to save fuel on the freeway. That's where my question lies. I think 21 - 22 should be ok on 93 octane....it's the 4th gear thing I'm worried about.
Rob
I heard the TD05HR in the evo is a very good turbo. I dont think upping the boost will kill it. i was reading somewhere it's capable of 45 or so psi (real psi - no vacuum offset) before risk of destroying it.
stvbreal,
Where I worry about upping the boost on factory fuel settings is in places like 4th and 5th gear where the car runs a lot leaner to save fuel on the freeway. That's where my question lies. I think 21 - 22 should be ok on 93 octane....it's the 4th gear thing I'm worried about.
Rob
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Originally posted by Coolguy949
what about running 19 to redline? did that exhibit fuel cut?
what about running 19 to redline? did that exhibit fuel cut?
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Originally posted by Claudius
When you go over 19/20 PSI, you should really connect a wideband O2 up and see what kind of AFRs you're running at, like QuantumEvo said.
When you go over 19/20 PSI, you should really connect a wideband O2 up and see what kind of AFRs you're running at, like QuantumEvo said.
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Originally posted by stvbreal
Where can I pick one up?
Where can I pick one up?
But it isnt just about the sensor, you'll need the junction box and display that goes with it. This is normally professional stuff that costs around $1000. It's normally good enough if you get it tuned by your shop using this equipment and then just monitor inj duty cycles and fuel pressure to make sure it stays that way. An additionnal EGT gauge and you're as safe as can be without having a wideband O2 meter connected
I like the idea of having a Camp instead of 7 or 8 gauges... the spending has no end once you get started, watch out!
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From: Frederick, MD
Originally posted by Claudius
But it isnt just about the sensor, you'll need the junction box and display that goes with it. This is normally professional stuff that costs around $1000.
But it isnt just about the sensor, you'll need the junction box and display that goes with it. This is normally professional stuff that costs around $1000.
A wideband is immensely useful once you start really modding the car. Bumping the boost up to 20-22psi certainly qualifies, I think. Especially if nothing has been done to ensure the fuel supply is adequate. Maybe the factory fuel system can handle it, maybe not. Easiest way to know for sure is to measure it.
Thomas Dorris
I think maybe the reason you hit cut in 4th is because the higher speeds make the IC more effective. I would be curious to see your Karman numbers and IDC; the 550's should be good for a little more but every car is different. The stock rail is very small. The stock car can hit 1500 hz or so with a few tweaks; more at higher boost, obviously. Also, you won't be able to run as much boost is you put a turboback on there.
The car should be ok in stock form if you bump into fuel cut once, but pull it back and leave it there until you get proper mods.
I will be getting a replacement MOTEC wideband (the last one was in the WRX when it was killed) so you can rent it for the day and tune/check stuff yourself. I can also put wideband bungs in if you purchase a downpipe from me, etc.
I am familiar with the LanEvo already because it is very similar to the Diamond Star 2G's.
FYI, all widebands dislike race fuel. It sounds like the Civic sensor is a little more finicky about it though.
EGT is important to have but like ALL sensors, it isn't a cureall or replacement for another.
BTW, anyone else noticed that the car pulls rough above 5000 rpm? The Karman numbers start fluctuating back and forth, as does boost a bit. I wonder if the BOV isn't leaking and throwing the MAF sensor off. If so, a BOV should be good to hold power better on top end. I rigged it to vent to atmo just to hear it and see when it opened. It certainly leaked when I was trying it even if I let off the throttle a few percentage. It seems a little too eager to vent. I wonder if that doesn't cause the rough issues. The roughness went away, IIRC, when I was venting to atmo, but it drove like absolute crap. Hesitation, idle problems (but never stalled), bucked and jerked when you were in boost and you rolled off the throttle at all, etc. Thus, a cheaper GReddy BOV solution is on the way.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
The car should be ok in stock form if you bump into fuel cut once, but pull it back and leave it there until you get proper mods.
I will be getting a replacement MOTEC wideband (the last one was in the WRX when it was killed
) so you can rent it for the day and tune/check stuff yourself. I can also put wideband bungs in if you purchase a downpipe from me, etc.I am familiar with the LanEvo already because it is very similar to the Diamond Star 2G's.
FYI, all widebands dislike race fuel.
It sounds like the Civic sensor is a little more finicky about it though.EGT is important to have but like ALL sensors, it isn't a cureall or replacement for another.
BTW, anyone else noticed that the car pulls rough above 5000 rpm? The Karman numbers start fluctuating back and forth, as does boost a bit. I wonder if the BOV isn't leaking and throwing the MAF sensor off. If so, a BOV should be good to hold power better on top end. I rigged it to vent to atmo just to hear it and see when it opened. It certainly leaked when I was trying it even if I let off the throttle a few percentage. It seems a little too eager to vent. I wonder if that doesn't cause the rough issues. The roughness went away, IIRC, when I was venting to atmo, but it drove like absolute crap. Hesitation, idle problems (but never stalled), bucked and jerked when you were in boost and you rolled off the throttle at all, etc. Thus, a cheaper GReddy BOV solution is on the way.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Originally posted by QuantumEVO
I think maybe the reason you hit cut in 4th is because the higher speeds make the IC more effective. I would be curious to see your Karman numbers and IDC; the 550's should be good for a little more but every car is different. The stock rail is very small. The stock car can hit 1500 hz or so with a few tweaks; more at higher boost, obviously. Also, you won't be able to run as much boost is you put a turboback on there.
The car should be ok in stock form if you bump into fuel cut once, but pull it back and leave it there until you get proper mods.
I will be getting a replacement MOTEC wideband (the last one was in the WRX when it was killed) so you can rent it for the day and tune/check stuff yourself. I can also put wideband bungs in if you purchase a downpipe from me, etc.
I am familiar with the LanEvo already because it is very similar to the Diamond Star 2G's.
FYI, all widebands dislike race fuel. It sounds like the Civic sensor is a little more finicky about it though.
EGT is important to have but like ALL sensors, it isn't a cureall or replacement for another.
BTW, anyone else noticed that the car pulls rough above 5000 rpm? The Karman numbers start fluctuating back and forth, as does boost a bit. I wonder if the BOV isn't leaking and throwing the MAF sensor off. If so, a BOV should be good to hold power better on top end. I rigged it to vent to atmo just to hear it and see when it opened. It certainly leaked when I was trying it even if I let off the throttle a few percentage. It seems a little too eager to vent. I wonder if that doesn't cause the rough issues. The roughness went away, IIRC, when I was venting to atmo, but it drove like absolute crap. Hesitation, idle problems (but never stalled), bucked and jerked when you were in boost and you rolled off the throttle at all, etc. Thus, a cheaper GReddy BOV solution is on the way.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
I think maybe the reason you hit cut in 4th is because the higher speeds make the IC more effective. I would be curious to see your Karman numbers and IDC; the 550's should be good for a little more but every car is different. The stock rail is very small. The stock car can hit 1500 hz or so with a few tweaks; more at higher boost, obviously. Also, you won't be able to run as much boost is you put a turboback on there.
The car should be ok in stock form if you bump into fuel cut once, but pull it back and leave it there until you get proper mods.
I will be getting a replacement MOTEC wideband (the last one was in the WRX when it was killed
) so you can rent it for the day and tune/check stuff yourself. I can also put wideband bungs in if you purchase a downpipe from me, etc.I am familiar with the LanEvo already because it is very similar to the Diamond Star 2G's.
FYI, all widebands dislike race fuel.
It sounds like the Civic sensor is a little more finicky about it though.EGT is important to have but like ALL sensors, it isn't a cureall or replacement for another.
BTW, anyone else noticed that the car pulls rough above 5000 rpm? The Karman numbers start fluctuating back and forth, as does boost a bit. I wonder if the BOV isn't leaking and throwing the MAF sensor off. If so, a BOV should be good to hold power better on top end. I rigged it to vent to atmo just to hear it and see when it opened. It certainly leaked when I was trying it even if I let off the throttle a few percentage. It seems a little too eager to vent. I wonder if that doesn't cause the rough issues. The roughness went away, IIRC, when I was venting to atmo, but it drove like absolute crap. Hesitation, idle problems (but never stalled), bucked and jerked when you were in boost and you rolled off the throttle at all, etc. Thus, a cheaper GReddy BOV solution is on the way.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
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