im writing to see if u guys can post the actual #s and driving qualitys on diff clutches. i hear so many diff things from diff ppl here on evo m and ppl localy. can ne 1 tell me the diff in organic and cerametalic clutches. i hear that the cerametalic has a very harsh engagement and is not to good for the street. i would also like to see the clamp load and the amout of trq diff clutches can hold.

There are a few clutches that i have been looking at and also would like opnions on wat u think i should go with. the clutchs that i have been looking at r:exedy stamped pp organic and cerametalic, hyper single clutch, act street and race clutch, and some non carbon twin plates. my car is gonna go toward the 400 hp and 440 lbs trq it will not exced those #s. all help will be appreciated thanks.

 

ur tellin me nobody has changed their clutch and nobody knows bout clutches?

 

Screw exedy and all these bull**** twin plate carbon clutches. Get an ACT, and save yourself about $1500.00. ACT clutches are cheap, reliable, and have already been used in 1000HP + 4G63 powered AWD dsms for about a decade.

 

You are asking for a lot since nobody has access to the testing equipment to give real clamp and torque capacity numbers except the clutch companies and many of them give "less than accurate" figures. There are different ways to interpret the figures as well such as testing for clamp load. Do you mean peak clamp load or new installed clamp load or average clamp load over the clutch's life? Torque capacity is even more difficult. Do you measure break away torque (static friction) or slipping torque (dynamic friction). And the parameters for dynamic friction testing gets complicates on top of that.

As far as driver's impressions, that is going to vary all across the board since there are so many degrees of comfort tolerance, different driving styles, engein setups, etc. Your best bet is to keep searching and take it all in. Of course I can give my opinion or recommendation. Of course it is not bias at all (see sig). Seriously though, another problem is that you can roast ANY clutch in less than a minute if you treat it exactly wrong. On the other hand with enough clamp load you can get even a good street disc to last making super high HP running 8's if you know how to drive it exactly right (ask John Shepherd). Somewhere in the middle of those extremes is where you are going to end up and you have to balance what you need, what you expect for benefits and tradeoffs, and of course what you can afford. PM if you have any questions for me or ACT clutches.

 

That's a pretty poor answer.

The Exedy Twin (doesn't have to be carbon) is certainly worth the 1500, which includes a chromoly flywheel. When you add the price of a flywheel to the ACT, then you're only $750 for a much better clutch. The ACT is fine. It definitely holds power. I didn't have a lot of luck with it, and the 7k lockout is annoying, but it's certainly fine for people who don't race, and it's far better than the stocker, imo, so it's a good stock replacement for someone who just daily drives the car and doesn't mind a stiff clutch pedal (doesn't bother me at all).