Question about my evo
#1
Question about my evo
I have an evo V and had some questions. When I accelerate hard, the little red exclamation poit (!) flashes on my dash. what would be the cause of this. also, when I turn hard, I think I hear the AYC. it's a groaning noise, but it's quite loud or maybe I'm not used to the noise. one more thing. I'm running about 1.05 bars of boost. all I have is an intake, and a downpipe. sometimes the boost cuts off on hard acceleration. any suggestions? comments? thanks!
#2
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The light coming on under hard acceleration happenes to me now, too. It is the handbrake thing, no idea why it comes on, probaly some connection happening under weight transfer. Doesnt worry me.
The AYC makes this stupid clac clac clac noise on hard cornering, dont worry, it's normal on just means it is working.
I am surprised you get fuel cuts with 1.05 bars but it can happen when cold. Lower the boost or change the ECU.
The AYC makes this stupid clac clac clac noise on hard cornering, dont worry, it's normal on just means it is working.
I am surprised you get fuel cuts with 1.05 bars but it can happen when cold. Lower the boost or change the ECU.
#3
noise
is the AYC noise supposed to be loud? it seems real loud to me. it definitely is a clack clack noise. it also occurs if I accelerate hard. should I hear the AYC under hard acceleration? when the fuel cuts off, what else would be the cause of this? should I get an air fuel controller? all I have now is an intake, custom downpipe, and a boost controller. please help on what else I would need for my new toy!
#4
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No, there should be no noise when you accelerate in a straight line. The AYC only kicks in when you corner so hard that the car would oversteer without it. AYC only works under hard acceleration in corners, not in straight lines and not when you do not accelerate. It could be something else. We had a noise like that from a worn out driveshaft once.
If you get fuel cuts at that low boost, and given that your car is a 5, ie a few years old already, the wastegate actuator could be rusted and not work correctly. Check that. It's the little metal can between the radiator and turbo that has a tiny metal tube going to the turbo.
If you get fuel cuts at that low boost, and given that your car is a 5, ie a few years old already, the wastegate actuator could be rusted and not work correctly. Check that. It's the little metal can between the radiator and turbo that has a tiny metal tube going to the turbo.
#6
Guys, I am not up to speed on the funky sounds that come out of the Evo when pressed hard for a sideways recovery at full throttle, but the clac sound y'all keep talking about is audible in my machine as well (you can mainly here it when I am sideways, just when the front of the car tells the rear; "your coming this way...")
Is this the sound that your talking about, coming from the front, right section of the vehicle? I thought that the sound is torque hitting the front diffs...
BTW, just picked up a 2K Evo VI Makenin Ed with 5,100 miles on it...!
Is this the sound that your talking about, coming from the front, right section of the vehicle? I thought that the sound is torque hitting the front diffs...
BTW, just picked up a 2K Evo VI Makenin Ed with 5,100 miles on it...!
#7
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No, the sound should come from the back! It's the rear LSD. Try turning your head or get a passenger to listen for it, not to look elsewhere but the road!
I dont get any sounds in the front LSD.
When I got my TME from the factory, there was NO front diff in it, would you mind checking what's in there? And take a pic? Or do you already know? (not dealer BS, but actual check).
When you go sideways under acceleration, you will definitely hear the sound!
I dont get any sounds in the front LSD.
When I got my TME from the factory, there was NO front diff in it, would you mind checking what's in there? And take a pic? Or do you already know? (not dealer BS, but actual check).
When you go sideways under acceleration, you will definitely hear the sound!
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#8
I took it to a specialist this morning for a check, he confirmed no front diffs... The knock is from the rear rightside. I guess the adrenaline when I have it sideways through third distorts my senses a little *grin*
Working on getting a pic posted in the next couple of days...
The first thing I have been asked to invest in is a Turbo Timer from HKS. Its supposed to help out alot since my Evo is an office commuter as well and I will be hitting the turbo hard for 2/3/4 shift bursts every morning. Then goes the airfilter and the box at the back, a free flow HKS system. Just both those should up me by 20 percent horsepower, that should come out to around 330 horses, from an original claimed 276 (cant get an official count as there is no dyno testing here...)
Does that sound about right? I mean the 20 percent increase just from the filter and exhaust?? That's alot of horses for some minor upgrades...
Working on getting a pic posted in the next couple of days...
The first thing I have been asked to invest in is a Turbo Timer from HKS. Its supposed to help out alot since my Evo is an office commuter as well and I will be hitting the turbo hard for 2/3/4 shift bursts every morning. Then goes the airfilter and the box at the back, a free flow HKS system. Just both those should up me by 20 percent horsepower, that should come out to around 330 horses, from an original claimed 276 (cant get an official count as there is no dyno testing here...)
Does that sound about right? I mean the 20 percent increase just from the filter and exhaust?? That's alot of horses for some minor upgrades...
#9
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The exhaust system and air filter are a must before increasing turbo boost and usually give about 10% power increase, sometimes placing the max torque higher up in the rev range. But this is a minor change. I noticed a good mid range increase with the HKS GT extension kit (these are all small differences) and Hyper Muffler.
What exhaust system are you getting?
The power increase you were promised is too optimistic. However, if you increase the boost as well, you will see a significant power and torque increase.
The best way to increase boost is to change the ECU altogether because it has a fuel cut programmed into it. The fuel cut will happen at a Karman Vortech value of 1700Hz at a given barometric pressure and outside temp. This usually equates to 1.2 - 1.3 bars of peak boost.
The free flowing exhaust will increase the boost a little bit, which is also why you will see a power increase. However, on a cold day, you may get fuel cuts even if you haven't touched the boost settings (OEM boost is 0.8 bar).
Dont forget to ask for the internal diameter of the exhaust you are being offered to buy: the most important thing for future upgrades is the internal diameter. It should be at least 2.5 inch, ideally 3 inch. I think a Hyper Muffler is between these two values.
What exhaust system are you getting?
The power increase you were promised is too optimistic. However, if you increase the boost as well, you will see a significant power and torque increase.
The best way to increase boost is to change the ECU altogether because it has a fuel cut programmed into it. The fuel cut will happen at a Karman Vortech value of 1700Hz at a given barometric pressure and outside temp. This usually equates to 1.2 - 1.3 bars of peak boost.
The free flowing exhaust will increase the boost a little bit, which is also why you will see a power increase. However, on a cold day, you may get fuel cuts even if you haven't touched the boost settings (OEM boost is 0.8 bar).
Dont forget to ask for the internal diameter of the exhaust you are being offered to buy: the most important thing for future upgrades is the internal diameter. It should be at least 2.5 inch, ideally 3 inch. I think a Hyper Muffler is between these two values.
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