Rod Knock? Motor going out? My luck BLOWS!! HELP!!
if you lost the rod bearing, you more than likely will need some serious work.
it can do the crank, etc, if real bad, the cylinder and head,
hopefully not that bad.....
normally with rod knock, you wont hear it when under heavy load, but at light load, like tipping into it etc.
i hope for your sake its not... if it is.....
build the motor....
cb
it can do the crank, etc, if real bad, the cylinder and head,
hopefully not that bad.....
normally with rod knock, you wont hear it when under heavy load, but at light load, like tipping into it etc.
i hope for your sake its not... if it is.....
build the motor....
cb
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
So if I get forged pistons, and repair all the other parts, should I take the head off, and clean out the shavings that could potentiall be in the turbo/head?
It also sounds to me the dealership may have possibly screwed up and caused this. Keep us updated.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by evolgrl
Call Dan at Buscher very helpful been there done that sounds like you guy might be correct?
Once you have the head and oil pan off you can find ot what went wrong
I would not drive the car anymore as you may cause additiona damage
Sorry that you had these problems
Sounds like the dealer did not put in all the oil. They probably had the minimum wage mechanic do the job. Let's hope that no serious damage has been done.
This is why I prefer to do all my own maintainence and make sure that the job is done right the first time.
This is why I prefer to do all my own maintainence and make sure that the job is done right the first time.
wait wait wait, you said there was 1/8th inch of oil on the dipstick? just how do you figure thats 5 quarts low? thats like 1.5 quarts low in every car ive owned, not 5. which would explain you putting in too much oil and it filling up too much. but thats beside the point. if a rod bearing is toast, the easiest way to find out is drain the damn oil! its EASY to do and you will see metallic flakes if a bearing desintegrated. trust me, ive seen it 3-4 times in the last 6 months on my, my brothers, and a few buddies cars. (stroke of bad luck and a bunch of 100 dollar cars... lol) the oil will look like black metallic paint. if it isnt that, you could have skipped a tooth or two on the timing belt and the valves are tapping the pistons. in my brothers car's case (another homo mishap) the hydraulic timing belt tensioner failed and made a knock that sounded like mild rod knock. that was solved (thank god) with just a new tensioner, no damage ensued. so, you have allot to check, its easy to do, so why not do it instead of expecting everyone across the internet to know your exact problem? you have allot done to your car, so i expect you can change your own oil... sorry if thats kinda harsh, but...
Last edited by RaNGVR-4; May 4, 2006 at 12:22 AM.
Originally Posted by FatheroftheEVO
wait wait wait, you said there was 1/8th inch of oil on the dipstick? just how do you figure thats 5 quarts low? thats like 1.5 quarts low in every car ive owned, not 5. which would explain you putting in too much oil and it filling up too much. but thats beside the point. if a rod bearing is toast, the easiest way to find out is drain the damn oil! its EASY to do and you will see metallic flakes if a bearing desintegrated. trust me, ive seen it 3-4 times in the last 6 months on my, my brothers, and a few buddies cars. (stroke of bad luck and a bunch of 100 dollar cars... lol) the oil will look like black metallic paint. if it isnt that, you could have skipped a tooth or two on the timing belt and the valves are tapping the pistons. in my brothers car's case (another homo mishap) the hydraulic timing belt tensioner failed and made a knock that sounded like mild rod knock. that was solved (thank god) with just a new tensioner, no damage ensued. so, you have allot to check, its easy to do, so why not do it instead of expecting everyone across the internet to know your exact problem? you have allot done to your car, so i expect you can change your own oil... sorry if thats kinda harsh, but...
. I didn't say I was 5 quarts low, just thought barely enough on the dipstick is low enough to me to mean that there is very little oil in it. I will take it to Buschur today on a trailer, so they can look at it. Thanks for the info and help as always. I will keep you posted.
is it necessary to "assume" all the shavings are throughout the engine? ie: should all parts be removed, and cleaned? Or is it more logical to get a new set-up? thanks in advance.
my car used 4 quarts in 1 week. havent got into it to find out where they went. There is no oil in my drive way. My Buschur 2.3 is toast now. Good bye evo ... hello Lexus........ Sorry to hear about your misfortune Smoked. Atleast you got 3 years out of yours. I got 3 months for stocker and 1 month for a built one. If they are bullet proof, I am the Teflon.
Originally Posted by poormansracecar
my car used 4 quarts in 1 week. havent got into it to find out where they went. There is no oil in my drive way. My Buschur 2.3 is toast now. Good bye evo ... hello Lexus........ Sorry to hear about your misfortune Smoked. Atleast you got 3 years out of yours. I got 3 months for stocker and 1 month for a built one. If they are bullet proof, I am the Teflon.
You are in for a treat my friend. I just rebuilt my BMW and let me tell you wont believe how long and effort this will take from you.
FWIW I have been seeing a lot of EVOs failing lately and they all have the following in common.
1- At or around 30K miles
2- Tuned in other words not stock ECU
3- After market performance parts
4- They have cams and TBE making around 340~ WHP
I think by time we are racking the miles on the EVOs and they are just showing the sign of ware and tare for the A LOT of extra power we are getting out of them.
FWIW I have been seeing a lot of EVOs failing lately and they all have the following in common.
1- At or around 30K miles
2- Tuned in other words not stock ECU
3- After market performance parts
4- They have cams and TBE making around 340~ WHP
I think by time we are racking the miles on the EVOs and they are just showing the sign of ware and tare for the A LOT of extra power we are getting out of them.
Originally Posted by Az3ar
You are in for a treat my friend. I just rebuilt my BMW and let me tell you wont believe how long and effort this will take from you.
FWIW I have been seeing a lot of EVOs failing lately and they all have the following in common.
1- At or around 30K miles
2- Tuned in other words not stock ECU
3- After market performance parts
4- They have cams and TBE making around 340~ WHP
I think by time we are racking the miles on the EVOs and they are just showing the sign of ware and tare for the A LOT of extra power we are getting out of them.
FWIW I have been seeing a lot of EVOs failing lately and they all have the following in common.
1- At or around 30K miles
2- Tuned in other words not stock ECU
3- After market performance parts
4- They have cams and TBE making around 340~ WHP
I think by time we are racking the miles on the EVOs and they are just showing the sign of ware and tare for the A LOT of extra power we are getting out of them.
So it would be faster to just replace the longblock and turbo?
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
I have 66K miles on mine, include "rollback" miles, I am over 100K
So it would be faster to just replace the longblock and turbo?
So it would be faster to just replace the longblock and turbo?
Well I would consider you lucky then. You got 66K from her.
As many said above if you think there is a major problem just don’t even turn her on. You will just distribute the metal all over your engine and it will end up costing you twice as much.
Good luck and take your time... again take your time and check every little part. Don’t assume that the part is good until it proofs to you that it’s going to work.
smoked....I am sure you saw the pics of my cracked piston just a few days ago. I am in the same boat. IF you have to get that deep into the motor, ie heads coming off....youmight as well as do a complete overhaul. A long block is a good idea for someone who has thrown a rod like Stew's car. If you can find a longblock for a decent price it may be easier. Works now sells crate engines from Cosworth but they are still working on the packages. I called them up and asked if they could build me a custom 2.0l longblock for a a certain price. They said they would let me know.
As I am piecing the parts together for my built motor (i've done more research than I care to think about) I figured $2800 minus labor (most of which I am doing anyways) A long block will cost between 5k-14k. Now take that $2800 on parts, add machine shop time, cylinder head cleaning and rebuilding and you can add another $1500 to that. It can be reasonable to get a $5k long block, probably some sacrifices as that will include labor from someone else but it drops right in.
As I am piecing the parts together for my built motor (i've done more research than I care to think about) I figured $2800 minus labor (most of which I am doing anyways) A long block will cost between 5k-14k. Now take that $2800 on parts, add machine shop time, cylinder head cleaning and rebuilding and you can add another $1500 to that. It can be reasonable to get a $5k long block, probably some sacrifices as that will include labor from someone else but it drops right in.
Damn Kev! Im really sorry to hear about this. Looks like its time to go with a nice built motor so you can dominate more vipers and vettes at WW. That sucks too that it happened right at the start of auto-x season. If you want, ill hit up some autocrosses with you and you can co-drive my car whenever you want while your car is down. Just let me know when and where the autocrosses are that you were planning on going to and ill see which ones I can make.



