54,000 miles on my car, 40,000 or those being with my 35r and about 250 passes seeing up to 31psi of boost and my car still runs fine (stock engine with headstuds). I am about to do a timing belt job on it. As long as you do proper maintanence and keep your tune good, your engine should last just fine.

 

It is safer to assume that there are small shavings throughout the engine and clean everything then to spend all this time putting a engine back together just to have to do it again because you assumed it had not.

 

smoked is the noise coming from the passenger side ??

I have the accessory belt tensioner broke on me.. and it made the knock noise you mentioned.. intermittent, low rpms.. got worse as time went by..

 

Sorry to hear about this but at least you got some good 66k on her. Keep us posted

 

You said that you checked the dipstick and it was only reading about an 1/8" up the dipstick. What you don't know is that the dipstick only reads the last quart of oil in the motor.

One sure fire way to check for knock is to slowly rev up the motor when its in neutral. If it has rod knock the knocking will be present at idle an will get increasingly worse as you raise the revs and the knocking will be constant.

If it is going away and is intermittent I highly doubt you have rod knock.

 

66k, did you ever do a timing belt?

 

I changed the timing belt at 36K miles, and it definetly seems to be like someone is hitting a hammer on the block. I cant find a motor in time for the WWII event it looks like! Guess I will be the "MC" (Master Chef) at the grill! Life is too short for this to put a damper on things!!

 

lol sh*t happens right? if it is a spun bearing, assume metal is everywhere yes. for the cheapest rebuild, you could pull the oilpan, there is a special cloth that will polish the crank, i forget what it is. (thats only if its not a bad spin, otherwise, take the crank out and have it turned). make sure the rod end isn splayed. also check the oil pump and see if its out of spec. if everything checks out, and you can polish the crank in-car, do it, put it back together and it would only cost you like 200 bucks. then get some cheap oil (enough for at least two oil changes) and filters. run the car for one or two minutes at idle. change the oil. run it again for like 10 minutes at idle. change the oil. then you can put some good oil in it and a good filter. well, thats the DSM way. lol

 

I will have it looked at next week! This idea sounds good!

 

If you are taking it to BR you would be suprised how quick they work !!

 

if there was oil on the dipstick at all, the dealership put oil in there.

quart low won't blow shiat up, but i wonder what caused your problem? were you driving around fat chicks again? you know, the extra load on your motor when you got a car full of fat chicks will cause bad things to happen at peak tq.

ive warned you about this previously kevin!

sorry to hear about your misfortunes. stroke it.

Jeff

 

Emery cloth, thats what it is. i remembered in class

 

Also get a new tensioner with the belt change.

 

a good place to look for your oil is in the lower innercooler pipe and the ineercooler itself if you did not see any smoke or drips but did loose oil out of the motor.it had to go somwhere. thats what happened to my T-Type when the turbo bearings checked out. some knocking was heard, that was 10 miles after an oil change. pulled over checked oil, nothing on the stick. pulled my intake found 4 qrts hiding in the base of the intake, and 1 qrt in the oil pan. rebuild rebuild rebuild. that is the price for going fast. goooood luck

 

fat chicks not aloud, car will scrape