Strange stalling when raining
Hey, so I changed my spark plugs and that didn't change my situation, although they really needed to be changed. However, while checking plugs and wires and such, I unplugged the MAS while the car was running and noticed that the car idled higher but extremely smooth! I did not drive with it unplugged. So I do not know if that is normal or if this tells me that the MAS is what I need to change next. I am going to try putting the Evo IX BOV on my car and see if that fixes it first, but if anyone can tell me whether or not the MAS could be the problem, I'd appreciate it!
THANX!!!
Jennifer
THANX!!!
Jennifer
Also, my volt meter shows 12v for accessory before I start the car, and it showed 13.5v after start up, maxing out at 13.8v while driving for a while. The car doesn't "stall" any more, but it gets damn close to the point where my battery light pops up for a split second, telling me the car died but revived itself. When this happens the voltage reads 12.1v. I think this is an improvement since the car won't officially stall out now, but it is still getting very close.
With that said, I think my battery and alternator are fine at this point, unless someone can inform me differently.
Any input it greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Jennifer
With that said, I think my battery and alternator are fine at this point, unless someone can inform me differently.
Any input it greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Jennifer
My old evo mass got covered with oil from many things and got pushed back, check to see if its dirty or bent, that could be a hindering factor if it is a good catch can is in order and i have about a Hundred Greddy ones in stock ill be glad to hook you up!
AHHHHH!
ok, so it wasnt stalling for a few days. but now it stalls... like three times in a row, going forwards or backwards, stopping or driving.
When I last was under the hood, while checking fuses and such, I pulled one out that had a warning on it not realizing that it said "ECU" something or other, and I put it right back, like 1 second later, but when I started the car, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on and stayed on while I drove it around the block. It went away when I remote started the car, and it didn't stall for a few days.
I didn't check my MAS yet, but if anyone could tell me if what I did made the problem worse? Do I need to reset my ECU or get another flash?
Thanks!
Jennifer
ok, so it wasnt stalling for a few days. but now it stalls... like three times in a row, going forwards or backwards, stopping or driving.
When I last was under the hood, while checking fuses and such, I pulled one out that had a warning on it not realizing that it said "ECU" something or other, and I put it right back, like 1 second later, but when I started the car, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on and stayed on while I drove it around the block. It went away when I remote started the car, and it didn't stall for a few days.
I didn't check my MAS yet, but if anyone could tell me if what I did made the problem worse? Do I need to reset my ECU or get another flash?
Thanks!
Jennifer
Idle dropping and stalling is usually MAF related and due to VTA BOV's on turbo cars that are meant to recirc. Depending on location mabey I could take a look at it for you. Or you could take it to TT
Originally Posted by VividRacing.com
Are your blow off valves vented out or back in the intake? My evo stalled alot when i first got the lightn flywheel, i had to learn how to stop diffrently. Try instead of pushing in the clutch same time as the brakes coming to a stop, try pushing the brakes and let the motor wine down to 1,000 rpms then pushing in the clutch last. One youll save gas because when your foot is not on the gas and its not idling the injectors are closed and your not burning fuel. Two its better for the tranny to downshift coming to a stop, so heel and toeing can help. Other than that check your alt and if that doesnt work take it in. best of luck. Pm if you need any parts or good deals! 

Odviously you are putting more strain on the entire drivetrain, including the tranny, as well as continuing to wear your synchros in an unneeded fashion. Moreso no matter what, when your foot is off the gas in an evo the throttle is open 12.94118%, rather it be in gear or not.
You're just wrong. Don't spread misinformation around when you don't know what you're talking about please.
It's a common to know that the throttle may be open but no fuel is going in unless at your foot is on the gas or your at idle. Just look at any engine management system when you come off the gas EGTS drop and injector duty is at 0% which means no fuel! no fuel and no egts means your not burning fuel = your saving gas!!
Ask any one who builds trannies, Syncros wont get effect by downshifting, Infact they are not involved with it, Bulk rings are and they do the downshifting.... But if your revmatching its not going to effect the tranny to engine brake. And the only reason to do this is to keep it from stalling coming to a stop. If not dont worry about it!
Ask any one who builds trannies, Syncros wont get effect by downshifting, Infact they are not involved with it, Bulk rings are and they do the downshifting.... But if your revmatching its not going to effect the tranny to engine brake. And the only reason to do this is to keep it from stalling coming to a stop. If not dont worry about it!
Last edited by Vivid Racing; Aug 31, 2006 at 09:54 AM.
Originally Posted by VividRacing.com
It's a common to know that the throttle may be open but no fuel is going in unless at your foot is on the gas or your at idle. Just look at any engine management system when you come off the gas EGTS drop and injector duty is at 0% which means no fuel! no fuel and no egts means your not burning fuel = your saving gas!!
Ask any one who builds trannies, Syncros wont get effect by downshifting, Infact they are not involved with it, Bulk rings are and they do the downshifting.... But if your revmatching its not going to effect the tranny to engine brake. And the only reason to do this is to keep it from stalling coming to a stop. If not dont worry about it!
Ask any one who builds trannies, Syncros wont get effect by downshifting, Infact they are not involved with it, Bulk rings are and they do the downshifting.... But if your revmatching its not going to effect the tranny to engine brake. And the only reason to do this is to keep it from stalling coming to a stop. If not dont worry about it!
And i'm sure your right about the syncros, but who cares, in the end it puts more wear and stress on your tranny the more you use it, no matter in which form.
According to the first post you flamed, I stated to keep it in one gear not downshift so yes you would save gas. Also Trannys only work well when lubricated well in when you not in gear its not moving the fluid through out the tranny like it should, causing high heat and low viscosity... That’s one of the reasons towing an evo is bad. On or of if it’s not in gear it won’t get lubed like it should!
Last edited by Vivid Racing; Aug 31, 2006 at 01:49 PM.
Go and get MAF cleaner its by CRC brand, I can only get it at Pep boys. Some info is on here if you search for more specifics. Clean that first (if you have a oiled filter this will help alot) and get a fully recirc BOV, dont mess with anything else getting rid of the HKS the previous owner installed was the BEST thing I could have done for my evo............. It dosent mess with the MAF readings during shifting my .02
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