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Best downpipe on a IX??? Fitment/quality/craftsmanship/performance

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:12 AM
  #136  
David Buschur's Avatar
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Wow, this topic got long.

I wasn't going to respond in it but since every other vendor has here is my pitch.

First off, the best 02 housing I have tested is the simple Ebay one we sell. We did a test of two other 02 housings that were 3" and the car made less power than the 2.5" ebay style.

The point behind this is using a downpipe with a 3" flange opening is un-needed.

Now our sales pitch

Our downpipe is the LIGHTEST 3" downpipe on the market and so is our 2.5". The full 3" downpipe weighs only 5.5 pounds. The downpipe has 3/8" thick flanges on both ends and uses 100% 304 grade stainless steel on every part, including flange and hangers. The downpipe has good clearance to the ACD and oil pan, so there is no worries there.

My daily driven EVO RS, in full street trim, including DOT Radials, just ran 9.97 at 142 mph with this same 3" downpipe/exhaust on the car and the 2.5" 02 housing.

The downpipe is only $275. Full turbo back shipped to you is $825.

The weight of our complete turbo back is 24 pounds. This is 36 pounds lighter than the stock system!

Thanks for letting me get my pitch in there
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 04:35 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Gruppe-S
Yes, the V2 downpipe is a bit lighter. The V1 downpipe was at a different factory (which is still manufacturing for a few brands you see on the market), Helix decided to switch to the new factory due to tighter tolerances and better materials / craftsmanship. All of the Helix exhaust components are now a bit lighter with tighter tolerances.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S
how light are we talkin'?
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 04:43 PM
  #138  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...81#post3600181

XS engineering DP cleared my ACD with room to boot. No spacers on the bars either.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by icedomin8r
But mated with a resonated cat delete and the Espelir exhaust this thing sounds pissed, really pissed! At WOT when the turbo spools it sounds like hell is trying to escape from the back of my car. Its great, closest thing to a Champ cars going under the overpasses at Long Beach I have heard.
Do you have a sound clip?? That sounds nasty.

Sorry - I just found this thread during a search and i was interested.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:22 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by trinydex
how light are we talkin'?
Just a little, haven't weighed them as I don't have any more V1's here, but it's probably less than 1lbs difference.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:43 PM
  #141  
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i have a ttp-engineering dp. the fitment is great and it clears my acd. and for $159 + shipping off their site you can not go wrong with that.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:32 PM
  #142  
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I can't believe ppl are comparing how much a dp weight. You swear that 1 - 2 lbs is going to make a different. Maybe you should strave yourself and lose some weight before hopping into your Evo.

Instead of focusing on how a 3" will out perform a 2.75", most vendors here is just selling whatever is more profitable to them. This thread is long only because vendors are trying to get exposure and pretend they are knowledgeable with big words. However, I don't see any dyno graphs or test to prove their claims.

Tom
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:33 PM
  #143  
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tlclee,

You can't even really say back to back dyno results are conclusive in this matter. Why you ask? I have seen a famous tuner, tune a car to what he "expected" it would want vs. actually trial and error of what the car really wanted. Later, more power was made by finding that the car really could successfully use more timing than would traditionally be "thought". Meaning, it is a misnomer that x AFR and x timing are universal optimum targets for any given application. Any given "Tuner" can drastically change the out come of any given application given when and how he decides he is "done". I mean look at we have now. We have Gruppe-S and Buschur (David posted his dynos long ago showing more power with a 3" vs 2.5" through out the entire power band) with dyno graphs showing 3" downpipes make the most power across the board, then we have Speed Element with graphs showing it not to be true in their case.

It's from an old post, but the guys who design the most popular turbos in the industry have the below to say, and a phone call will find that opinion has not changed. Notice NO BRAND NAMES are relevant here. I've left part in that really don't apply directly, but are an interesting read on the same general subject:

The following excerpts are from Jay Kavanaugh, a turbo systems engineer at Garret, responding to a thread on impreza.net regarding exhaust design and exhaust theory:

“Howdy,
This thread was brought to my attention by a friend of mine in hopes of shedding some light on the issue of exhaust size selection for turbocharged vehicles. Most of the facts have been covered already. FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems.
N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.
For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.
Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.
Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.
As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.”
"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12° included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.

A large "bell mouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above.
If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow.
Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all.
Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems.
Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.
Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc.”
"Comparing the two bell mouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.
There's more to it, though-- if a larger bell mouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.

As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length.”
"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:
Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:
(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure
So here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.
Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).
So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.
This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.
As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would. As for output temperatures, I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you referring to compressor outlet temperatures?
The advantage to the bellmouth setup from the wg's perspective is that it allows a less torturous path for the bypassed gases to escape. This makes it more effective in bypassing gases for a given pressure differential and wg valve position. Think of it as improving the VE of the wastegate. If you have a very compromised wg discharge routing, under some conditions the wg may not be able bypass enough flow to control boost, even when wide open. So the gases go through the turbine instead of the wg, and boost creeps up.
The downside to a bellmouth is that the wg flow still dumps right into the turbine discharge. A divider wall would be beneficial here. And, as mentioned earlier, if you go too big on the bellmouth and the turbine discharge flow sees a rapid area change (regardless of whether the wg flow is being introduced there or not), you will incur a backpressure penalty right at the site of the step. This is why you want gradual area changes in your exhaust."

Last edited by Zeus; Oct 23, 2006 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Zeus
tlclee,

You can't even really say back to back dyno results are conclusive in this matter. Why you ask? I have seen a famous tuner, tune a car to what he "expected" it would want vs. actually trial and error of what the car really wanted. Later, more power was made by finding that the car wanted more timing than would normally be "thought", yet just as clean. Meaning, it is a misnomer that x AFR and x timing are universal optimum targets for any given application. Any given "Tuner" can drastically change the out come of any given application given when and how he decides he is "done". I mean look at we have now. We have Gruppe-S and Buschur (David posted his dynos long ago showing more power with a 3" vs 2.5" through out the entire power band) with dyno graphs showing 3" downpipes make the most power across the board, then we have Speed Element with graphs showing it not to be true in their case.

It's from an old post, but the guys who design the most popular turbos in the industry have the below to say, and a phone call will find that opinion has not changed. Notice NO BRAND NAMES are relevant here:

The following excerpts are from Jay Kavanaugh, a turbo systems engineer at Garret, responding to a thread on http://www.impreza.net regarding exhaust design and exhaust theory:
I agreed to what you said but in the end...I will only believe a 3" dp will produce better result than a 2.75" with a stock turbo. Yes, you SHOULD have a 3" dp if you are running a GT 30 or larger but with stock turbo...2.75" is good enough. A 3" WILL NOT make anymore power than a 2.75".

I think its BS how vendors are trying to sell ppl a 3" dp by saying it will make more power than a 2.75" without any prove.

Last edited by tlclee; Oct 23, 2006 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:50 PM
  #145  
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He said you can only lead them to water...





BTW... I'd be willing to bet I'd make a better profit margin on that Tanabe 2.75" downpipe vs. a Megan 3"...

Last edited by Zeus; Oct 23, 2006 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Zeus
He said you can only lead them to water...





BTW... I'd be willing to bet I'd make a better profit margin on that Tanabe 2.75" downpipe vs. a Megan 3"...
No doubt a 3" will flow more than a 2.75" but its an over kill for a stock turbo Evo. If you are buying the TBE based on that theory...why not just get the APS 3.5" or if you have a 05 or new evo...maybe you should custom everything to be as big as possible. At some point, there's going to be a deminishing marginal return. Bigger isn't always better...

I don't know what you can make on a Megan but I know you can make a better profit margin on Helix, Works, and Buschur than a tanabe 2.75. In fact, I can tell you the cost of the tanabe from SP or DA if you want to comparision.

FYI, I saying their dp doesn't work but I don't think they should sell their dp with a sale pitch of a 3" dp is far more superior.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 01:12 AM
  #147  
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omg shut the **** up.

fluid dynamics at this level is relatively simple. in full turbulent flow you have several types of losses. viscous. expansion. turning.

we already covered viscous 3" gives you better aspect ratio, more flow per suface area exposed to visous effects

expansion has been covered. should you let a 60mm turbine opening balloon out into a 3" pipe right away? what then is the acceptable diameters? how much cross sectional should be alloted to the wastegate? how much should to allotted for the combined outlet?

would i want a 2.75 dp for about 4 feet of my 13 foot exhaust system JUST cuz i don't want the expansion at the o2 housing to be "expanded". short answer no. long answer, no one has made a proper 3" housing. why? cuz full race hasn't made it yet. if someone else wants to take up the challenge then prove something to me. otherwise... i'd love to see another batch of engineers that actually make stuff and not claim a lotta stuff and sell other people's ****.

as for flow turning, it's all about what angles and how much clearence you want from your tie bars. that's a non issue at this level.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 01:31 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Zeus
He said you can only lead them to water...





BTW... I'd be willing to bet I'd make a better profit margin on that Tanabe 2.75" downpipe vs. a Megan 3"...
Actually you would be very surprised what little margins there are on name brand parts.

Name brand parts, the profits are in the service, as in installs and tune. I assure you that I will never be a rich man by selling tanabe dp's.

I only recommend them because of what I've seen in the results. The Perrin Dp is similarly priced and is full 3" for guys who like to drag race and run race gas. I assure you this is not a money issue. Just simply a case of bigger is not always better in every situation.

I picked up an EVO9 because the throttle response of the MIVEC is something that cannot be recreated easily in an EVO8, with a 3" dp this effect is somewhat deminished. With a 2.75 the throttle response on other EVO9s is noticably better.

Last edited by EFIxMR; Oct 24, 2006 at 01:35 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 01:47 AM
  #149  
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Also for anyone interested in how the EIP dyno reads check out this thread on our local forum. It is in regards to the last dyno day we had and is very interesting in its own right.

http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?o...&topic=13521.0

350 whp on this dyno with the stock turbo is good for a proven mid 11's

Last edited by EFIxMR; Oct 24, 2006 at 01:49 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:22 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by EFIxMR
Actually you would be very surprised what little margins there are on name brand parts.

Name brand parts, the profits are in the service, as in installs and tune. I assure you that I will never be a rich man by selling tanabe dp's.

I only recommend them because of what I've seen in the results. The Perrin Dp is similarly priced and is full 3" for guys who like to drag race and run race gas. I assure you this is not a money issue. Just simply a case of bigger is not always better in every situation.

I picked up an EVO9 because the throttle response of the MIVEC is something that cannot be recreated easily in an EVO8, with a 3" dp this effect is somewhat deminished. With a 2.75 the throttle response on other EVO9s is noticably better.
My point was merely to the fact that my opinions were not cast in sales motivation . I was not suggesting anyone else's were otherwise. However, I'd would speculate that most shops retail sales these days are fairly independent of the local market. The internet seems to rule all...
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