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thicker headgasket?

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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 06:16 AM
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thicker headgasket?

I have a stock block evo that im about to do a gt35r setup on with meth. Im shooting for about 450 whp on meth. The only engine mods I plan to do will be arp headstuds. Would it be worth it to get a thicker headgasket to lower compresion and maybe make it more reliable? I dont plan ever changing from a 2.0, I will get pistons/rods when the stock ones let go so pls dont tell me to build it. Any thoughts on this or anyone out there runing a thicker HG and how much compresion did it lower you by.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 06:42 AM
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Unnecessary.

Furthermore, 450whp (DJ) for a GT35R using meth injection is like a walk in the park where reliability is concerned.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted B
Unnecessary.

Furthermore, 450whp (DJ) for a GT35R using meth injection is like a walk in the park where reliability is concerned.
I see what your saying but if I wanted an extra safeguard, this isnt it? I realize that if I lower my compresion my car will feel more slugish and require more boost to obtain the same #'s people are geting on stock compresion.

Scenario #1
I get a thicker hg and run 28psi to make 450whp

Scenario #2
Stock compresion, I run 26psi to get 450whp

Which one would be safer lets say for the motor. If i drop my compresion by a full 1 point and it requires me to boost on avg 2 more psi to make up for it, Is it worth it?

Whats worse for the car, the stock comp and boosting 26psi or lwr comp and boosting 28.

I'm still a little concerned that 450whp on meth is a walk in the park. Yes yes I know people run 500 whp on stock blocks but in all reality, how long will that last?
I want this motor to last as long as possible.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 07:17 AM
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I wouldnt bother...If the headgasket breaks then replace it, otherwise don't fix it unless its broke. If you want the motor to last the headgasket is not what you should be worrying about, besides if u want ur motor to last forever then don't mod it to 450+ awhp.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Markourn
I see what your saying but if I wanted an extra safeguard, this isnt it?
No, not really.


Originally Posted by Markourn
I want this motor to last as long as possible.
There is no substitute for good tuning. You can feel good about the fact that you won't have to worry about using more than ~22-23 psi to reach your performance goal.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 03:59 AM
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Hi... help me with this one!
My mods are in my sig...and im gonna install gsc cams,hks belt,Greddy ebc...and reflash it.
Do i need headstuds?
If i do, must i put a new headgasket as well?
...
I do need some advices...please!
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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ries's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Ducu
Hi... help me with this one!
My mods are in my sig...and im gonna install gsc cams,hks belt,Greddy ebc...and reflash it.
Do i need headstuds?
If i do, must i put a new headgasket as well?
...
I do need some advices...please!


you can do a one for one swap for the headstuds w/out taking off the head. What boost levels do you plan on running??? If you dont plan on running more then 22-23 psi on a daily basis then you shouldnt need head studs.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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Don't replace it till it breaks. Thats my moto...

Just get yourself some ARP headstuds and I seen no one suggested it. But I would get yourself a set of ARP rod bolts. There cheap easy precaution.

I myself don't like meth kits. There is ALOT of risk on the table if say the pump takes a crap and doesn't spray. I suggest you looking into E85 if you dont already have the alky kit.

E85 ends up being more octane strait into your fuel tank then what pumpgas and alky is and it cost less overall.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:25 AM
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no... i dont plan on running more then 23 psi (1.6bar)...but i plan to keep it to redline.
and i always use 100 octane european gas ( i think it means 95 us... ).
im planing to open the motor only to put a full kit (pistons,rods...).
so now im ok if u say not to change the studs...thx!
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ducu
no... i dont plan on running more then 23 psi (1.6bar)...but i plan to keep it to redline.
and i always use 100 octane european gas ( i think it means 95 us... ).
im planing to open the motor only to put a full kit (pistons,rods...).
so now im ok if u say not to change the studs...thx!
Just remember when you do ARP head studs there is a sequence when torquing them down. I don't have that sequence handy right now but Im sure someone will chim in on it. Also, I was always told when replacing oem studs with ARP studs that you start in the middle and work your way out replacing them. I did that on my last two cars and never had a headgasket issue and ran over 25psi on both.

Also, Look into ARP rod bolts. They are a cheap fix and will help keep the bottom end tight.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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YOu don't need to but if you're planning to lift the head anyway then I'd say why not...but if you're not lifting the head then stay with it...
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