Congrats.

 

For those of you wondering about the knock counts... If you have done your research on the Ecuflash threads, you are supposed to tune to 1-3 counts of knock...

 

Miguel, I will give you $50.00 cash if you can show me a spike to 24.5 psi and then hold 23 psi at 7001 rpms (red line).

 

LOL!! Keep in mind i still have stock cams and that has alot to do with it but then again im still using the stock blow off valve!!!

Manie which boost controller are you using?

 

exactly. those two things would actually HURT your ability to make more boost up top.

 

The stock cams would hurt flow into the engine and therefore help hold boost at higher RPM. Upgraded cams cause more of a boost taper because they require a higher flow-rate of air to maintain the same boost level.

-Paul

 

This is a log from 3 days ago (Monday). 1st. shows the peak spike, 2nd the tapper at redline.

As you can see, I can't even hold 23 psi at redline on pump. And, take a look at the boost graph (the one on the very top of the plot. It is as flat as possible. I could actually make it hold more at redline with the rpm off set feature in the boost controller, but I don't like the feature because it causes knock and also does not have the initial kick when boost hits. So I got it set up as any normal EBC.

I have mild cams, so I never had problems holding boost to redline.
But the reason I say it is not possible for you to hold 23 psi to redline spiking only 24.5 psi is, even when I spike 28 pis, I only hold 23 psi.

See the 3rd pic. Spiking over 28 and holding 23. From a couple of months ago on race fuel.

Bottom line is A/F's, line going up is rpms, top line is boost.

 

this is true but I was actually refering to the VE of the engine with stock cams vs. aftermarket cams. You will be able to maintain more boost in the upper RPM range as you shift the VE to the right as with aftermarket cams.

 

I am sooo glad someone posted on TTP Scott's tunes.

I just had 272 GSC cams and gears put in along w/ high flow cat (ttp) and forge bov and mbc.

Scott is a bad ***. I thought my car was real fast before. It blows my mind what a good tuner can do with some bolt ons.

Thanks again I will be at the track tonight (wed.) if anyone is going. Look for the yellow evo w/ carbon fiber hood.

 

Thank you for the kind words... Here is a log of Miguels boost curve. His GReddy boost gauge is not the easiest for imperial people in the US to read @ 14.5psi per bar. The medical grade precision pressure transducer from the ZEITRONIX Wideband 3.5bar sensor reads way more accurately anyhow.

 

notice how everyone shut up once those logs were posted, regardless I still don't believe it. no WAY the stock turbo can produce enough CFM to make 21.5psi @ 7k.

I have dozens and dozens of logs that spike to 24psi and drop down to 20.5 by 7k... there is something else going on here that he isn't telling!

 

I thought any knock was bad. Also I am confused to why it would knock when you shift? Can you please elaborate?I know when I have witnessed street tunes with the Knock link by another tuner we saw no knock and if knock was detected he tuned accordingly.

 

Yes, he runs a FORGE UNOS. Great MBC.

I have made 22.5psi at 8000rpms on HKS 280 280.

There is no witchcraft, voodoo or black magic here.

 

Couple things. First of all we are talking about knocksums as a figure of what the microphone bolted to your block picks up. It can pick up a many things not limited to a downpipe rattle, balance shaft out of phase, vibration, and of course actual knock events.

When targeting a maximum efficient tune you want to target programming where you can run ignition timing at or as close to what you program as possible.

STOCK CARS experience levels of knocksums right off the dealer lot.

The ART of tuning is targeting specific thresholds where the ECU pulls as little timing back as possible maintaining your maximum timing advance.

There are some reflash tuners out there that block out 8-9 degrees of timing in much of their reflashes and you may see improvements, but you WILL SEE KNOCK. Now if a tuner programs 8* of timing, the ecu may see 0-36 counts of knocksums and will retard timing anywhere from 1* removed to all the way to -10* (past zero * and another -10*). This method of tuning is skill-less and is a very poor way to demonstrate competency in "tuning". You may have 8-9* of timing but when the detonation takes place at moderate knocksums your timing gets pulled back 5-6* or more, leaving your EFFECTIVE ignition timing at 3-4* for example.

The art of tuning is to get as close as you can to the point where the ecu wants to pull out 1 or 2* of timing through 0-3 knocksums showing in the logs. If the whole log was all 0 knocksums, then you would be missing power. If the logs were 5-7 counts or more, you are ALSO missing power as the ECU retards and (subtracts) ignition timing.

The KEY is to get to the threshold where the ECU shows 0-2 counts of knocksums so that you run maximum timing advance WITHOUT the ECU SUBTRACTING ignition timing due to moderate or excessive knocksums. Without having any knocksums at all means you have not found this threshold. The range of 0-2 knocksums becomes a hit or miss. Many times it will be ZERO and it is worth it to have your tune at that exact point. Worst case is you lose 1-2* subtracted from ign timing, best case is that much of the time you will make more power depending on coolant temps, FMIC temp, AIT and gas.

I typed an extensive explanation of knocksums after shifts and then the evom server crashed and I lost it.

I will try again.

There is a condition where you can shift faster than all of the data can be processed. If you look at the logs you can see that it is possible to shift so fast that only 1 sample of data from TPS off and then on it taken. If you pay close attention to the RPM and TIMING logs you can see a few samples of LAGGING data.

It would go something like
100TPS, 46TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS, 100TPS.
6890RPM, 6945RPM, 6893RPM, 6634RPM, 6234RPM, 5834RPM, 5304RPM, 5473RPM and so on.

What happens is that you are really in boost again and WOT 100%TPS, but the timing being looked up is for the laggy rpm and wrong load.

So under timing you will see:
12, 12, 13, 18, 22, 25, 12, 7, 7, 8, 9, and so on.

You end up hitting low timing load cells and laggy RPM cells which lookup timing that is not what is supposed to be looked up.

Under normal shifting, this is unlikely to happen.

 

Man, what an awesome post. Dude, you rock for making me, a self professed simpleton, understand this.