well that's not very comforting news for me to hear! what fluids were you guys using?

 

razorlab...I've been following this post because I put 11 track days on my IX MR this year since I bought it in February. My car has 12,000 miles on it and I plan to keep averaging at least one track day a month. I run every session...for every lap...and every minute I can...and then some...and stay till the event closes. My tranny still shifts and feels better than the day I bought it. Did you notice anything unusual before your tranny failed. If I destroy my 6-speed I will probably go with a ?????? I love the six-speed..after driving a 5-speed 03 Evo for 49,000 miles. The big question is how will your TRE 6-speed hold up? You are testing the waters for those who follow...thanks...

 

I'm sure that the Diaqueen is good stuff, but its not going to be any better than the several other high quality synthetic tranny fluids available.

 

No, it just went, at the time I wasn't sure what the problem was since it's hard to hear things with a helmet on and wind in the car at over 100 mph.

Here is my tranny failure on video, see if you can tell when the tranny lets go.

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/use...6/dead_tranny/

Here was my pace before it went:

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/use...e_doesnt_lift/

 

It's well understood that our 6sp requires a GL4 for synchros to work properly. However, could this less-slippery oil be substituted for something more slick (GL5) but mixed with a "friction modifier" to aide synchro engagement? I would assume it would negate the effects of the extra lubrication, though. Still I wonder if it would help.

If heat is causing failures of the hardened steel gears, shouldn't some people also see synchro problems as well? I thought overheated tranny oil attacks the brass synchro rings..

The more I think about the problem, it seems to be that the real solution is to use a more durable oil (thicker film and shear strength, and a larger oil volume (most suitable with a pump and cooler a-la razorlab's setup). If cryotreating and shot peening only marginally helps (if at all) then this would seem to be the best route (pending razorlab's temp results).

Other ideas can only help, such as a heat shield around the downpipe (or better yet, coated). That DP gets HOT HOT and much of that heat radiates into the surrounding surfaces. Keeping the underbody tray on is critical as it helps duct air into the fins on the underside of the 6sp case.

Or, I wonder if oil starvation is part of the problem (considering track use)... If you're in a high-G turn on the throttle, if the oil is being flung to one side of the case and is starving the exposed gear of it's lubrication..


Did I read correctly that someone even installed oil jets for each of the gears?

 

[QUOTE=razorlab]No, it just went, at the time I wasn't sure what the problem was since it's hard to hear things with a helmet on and wind in the car at over 100 mph.

Here is my tranny failure on video, see if you can tell when the tranny lets go.

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/use...6/dead_tranny/

Did it go when you raised your hand in a "WTF Sh@#t@#%@ what that" manner?

 

No, the first corner at the end of the straight. You can tell when I look down at all my gauges after reducing my speed by about half.

If you watch the other video, you can see my normal pace at that track. Also, you can see it's a heavy 4th gear usage track.

 

so is there a cure for the 6 spd 4th gear failure issue...
i can forsee some of poconos infield courses and the glen to use 4th
i would rather not have a failure
i want to prevent one

 

someone needs to put together a trans cooler package
i would buy it in a heart beat but for the evo im not sure waht connections are needed
my Honda had the most overkill cooling system for the motor and trans...hell it didnt get warm in the winters you could drive it for an hour and still put your hand on the radiator and not get burnt...i had to actually block it off in the colder months to get it to warm up...

 

I love my 5 spd and didnt get the MR just for that reason.
I am a firm believer in proper break-in procedures.
You know in the morning when your first driving out and the drivetrain is still cold and the tranny is notchy as hell ?
When new, the tolerances are as tight as they will ever be. So care taken now to heat up the internals vs not, and having the different types of metals expand faster than one another cause excessive wear and scuffing.
I know a few evo owners that have beat the **** out of there evo since day one and have shifting issues.
You gotta let things settle in before really getting the heat up to road racing conditions. The more drive time, warm ups, the more you are like heat treating and heat cycling the metals, making them stronger as time goes by and the miles rack up.
Proper breakin is essential to the way your car drivers, performes as well as lasts.

 

Once I get mine in and everything working right I will make a write up on everything needed.

 

understood on proper break in
which was the toughest thing for me to do for 1k miles
its now 8k but hasnt even seen the track yet
im still in the middle of modding it for next season

 

I would assume so.

 

My engine oil gets up to about 260 Degrees when pushing hard on a warm day... should I be getting concerned?

 

I'm on Diaqueen myself... but that Castrol stuff seems interesting. How do we know that the Diaqueen isn't synthetic?

A very disturbing trend I've seen with these, is if you run Redline MT-90, your a ticking time bomb.