And whats wrong with running the oem fluid replaced more often?
http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/catalog/?section=489#81

 

Well that's what we're trying to figure out. For a daily driver, the factory stuff works great. If it's a dino oil (organic, non-synthetic) then it will break down earlier than a good synthetic which can withstand the heat more consistently.

Also, if the factory lube is just thin/thick enough to be a great daily driver car, it might be getting too thin at really high temps, where the sh*t hits the fan and parts are failing.

The factory fluis works awesome at normal operating temps and still well at high temps, but it seems that it might not be up to the task of the extreme heat situations we're reading about.

The extreme heat is caused by a narrow tooth profile and lots of torque. This creates massive tooth face pressure which will fatigue the metal already, but if the heat causes the lube to fail then the two problems aggrivate each other and you eventually have hot metal scraping against hot metal. Trying different lubes may help to solve the heat-related faulire problem.

 

why the mobil 1 syntec mix?
and
why redline
how is it better than the next

what are you running in the trans also?

 

Well today was a big eye opener.

Today at Thunderhill was about 62-65F ambient. Pretty cool track all day.

I was instructing today so I only got about 65 on track miles. The first couple sessions I did I wasn't pushing the car as hard as I usually do since this was my first track event in about 5 months. Trans temp hit 194F to 203F.

The last session I had in the day was at 4pm and the track was cold and slippery. I was pushing the car pretty hard playing lead and follow with a evo track buddy of mine. After 3 laps the trans temp raised to 221F. This is when I came in and called it a day.

This really makes me wonder what kind of temps the trans was doing in the 90-95F summer events.

The trans cooler is going on ASAP.

 

im quite surprised by this cause the 6 speed trany is designed to make better times on the track with the same hp as a standard evo , i guess they didn't test it enough.......strange.

 

You know, I still just can't believe 50 degrees (from normal) is going to make or break a gear! It just doesn't make sense. If the gears were THAT fragile to have failures from such a low temperature variance... they would break all the time and very, very easily.

 

I think the issue is that the temperature on the gear teeth is much higher, and as the oil starts breaking down, the temperature snowballs at the gear teeth. If the oil breaks down badly enough the local temperature at the gear teeth could possibly soar past 500 deg F. Maybe more.

 

Also remember this was a cool track day. Warmer days would for sure see much higher trans temps.

 

so does this only affect the 05s or the 06s as well
does anyone have a good answer?

 

as far as i(and anyone else i talk to), 05-06 use the same tranny. i'll try and cross reference part numbers to verify.
RAZORLAB-what fluid were you running at the track? was it synthetic?

 

in the mr road racing thread someone found a different part # for the 4th gear

 

A cocktail of Redline MT-90 and Redline Shockproof heavy.

 

On a side note about fluid, I bought some of the Motul Gear 300. I know people are nervous
cause of the exact equivalent GL-4 rating. Now being motul is GL4/GL5 I
thought I would perform a test to see if it attacked yellow metal (really the only negative I
could see in using this fluid). I got my hands on a evo syncro which is yellow metal.
I was going to put the syncro in a container submerged in motul to see what it does over
the next few months while the evo is sleeping for the winter. Good idea or not? Any
suggestions?

 

is it exact equivilent 75-85 weight?

 

No it's thicker 75-90. I already know your feelings on the matter